82 interstate refurb

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Not really conflicting. You do need to adjust the pilot screws first, but the carbs need to be synced after. May even have to readjust the pilot screws after sync.
 
A T F in the fuel can often help, to improve the idle.
It has chemicals that can help to disolve.
The sludge that can build up in the lines.
 
Thanks julimike. I have replaced virtually everything that touches fuel on the bike. I am not concerned about sludge.

The cheapo rebuild kit for the carbs (came with the bike) has pilot screws without the knurled ends so I cant use my finger tips to adjust them. I am thinking seriously of ordering oem pilot screws if available. I just dont have hours to spend trying to get to them with some funky tool and these are mixture screws. They need to be correct to get this motor running the way it can/should run.
 
dan filipi said:
Not really conflicting. You do need to adjust the pilot screws first, but the carbs need to be synced after. May even have to readjust the pilot screws after sync.
Click to expand...
Of course they will need to be readjusted after the synch so it makes sense to synch them first then adjust the pilot screws when the air flow is equal.
 
Makes sense.
My workday just ended so I am going out to the barn and will synch them before adjusting pilot screws. At least I know they are all set the same now - according to service manual.

When you look up backfire in the trouble shooting section in the service manual it calls out air cut off valves and accelerator pump. All of those have been replaced with new by me so I am hoping I wont need to get back in to that carb assembly.
Only one accelerator pump but I dont know how to tell if its working without taking things apart.
 
Well that was pretty painless. The cheap vacuum gauge set up i Bought worked fine. 1 gauge was off but easy enough to fix. I tested them with my vacuum pump. All equal enough.
Actually did make quite a difference. They were all over the place. Idles much better. Hoping the pilot screws really nail it down. No time tonight.
 
I have a couple ideas for you...
The accelerator pump can be checked by looking in the carbs with a mirror and a flashlight at the little (1/4") verticle nozzles just behind the wire mesh. When you hhit the throttle, these tubes should squirt a little stream of fuel down the carb throat.
I put a small metal gear on the end of the idle mixture screw so it can be adjusted by poking it with a sharp stick or thin screwdriver blade. It helps to paint marks on it to see how much it turns.
There should be a cable adjuster on the accelerator cables on the left of the air filter and above the front motor mount. It should have a rubber sleeve over it. Hope this helps.
 

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I love the modification to the pilot screw. Thanks for the tip on checking accelerator pump. Im going to try that tonight.
Also going to either replace all my pilot screws with original (cleaned) screws so ill have the knurled ends to work with. Or try a skewdriver. Any suggestions on a hand held tach?
 
Sorry, can't help on the tach, but wanted to comment on mixture screws. I've never seen A knurled mixture screw from honda (kehein), they have an aluminum cap to glue on over the screwdriver slot after setting is complete. There is a mixture screw from Kawasaki that will fit and it may have a knurled end, but access is so limited you can only get your fingers on it when the engine is cool. An insulated glove makes my (small) hand too big to get in there. That's why I came up with the gear idea.
http://www.randakksblog.com/easy-source-for-gl1100-idle-mixture-screws/On further inspection, the kawasaki part has a srew slot just like honda's, probably the same source.
 

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My screws look exactly like the ones in the picture. And yes. Difficult to get to with a hot motor.
The original do have knurled ends. Ill shoot a pic when I get home.
How did you attach the little gear and where did you get it?
 
I have a skewdriver, even made a special driver tip with a screw retainer on it...not worth the effort
The first gear tops were for an rc racecar model. I had to turn down the screw to fit the gear. The next ones I made a blank gear shape drilled to fit the stock screw. Then I cut/filed teeth in it for the sharp stick. They don't have to mesh with anything so they don't need to be uniform. They are held on with a little set screw.
 

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Happy fathers day to all the dads. Big milestone for my project. Yesterday I rolled it off the lift, started it and took it around the block. No lights or fenders, no windshield, no helmet, no plates. Felt like a kid again taking out my minibike for the first time.
Ran great!. Brakes are very good. Clutch is smooth. Motor strong and smooth. Suprisingly strong. That was my first time on a Goldwing of any kind. Still lots to do but now I know all the basics are good. And as a bonus, no leaks and no smoke. First thing on the docket is get it registered. When I get all the little things fixed and get her all back together Ill want to go for a real ride. Very satisfying day made possible by the help on this forum. Hats off to you.
 
Couple things that need dialing in:
Front brakes are weak. With 2 double piston calipers I would think they would be pretty strong. I am going to bleed them again. Feels like there may be a little air in there. After that I guess I'll have to isolate the calipers and see if both are involved in braking

Also, need to get the idle mixtures adjudted correctly. The motor doesnt seem to be using all 4 cylinders coming off of idle. Once it gets going its strong and smooth but chunky coming off idle in first gear. Hopefully just pilot screw adjustments - then maybe re synch the carbs.
 
One challenge is I dont know how this is supposed to feel/run/sound. I dont have one running correctly to use as a basis for comparison. What is happening now, however is definitely not correct.
 
So Honda makes a special tool to adjust the pilot screws... looks like a screwdriver with a flexible tip with d shaped tip
Anyone tried that?
 
Started going through the electrical systems.
Things are misbehaving. Headlight wont light. I have around 3 volts at headlight key on engine off. Front directionals will illuminate when I operate the turn signal but dont blink. Running lights - nothing.
Nothing is connected on the back of the bike yet so can't check any of that. Getting familiar with the schematic. Honestly, if I can get all the electrics working and dial in the pilot adjustments. This is ready to ride. Very frustrating having to go to work with it this close.
Lots of poc modifications to electrics. Removing them all. Took out all fuses to clean holder and check them. Found a 30 amp fuse. Now I need to go through that circuit. Had to be a reason to install that unless it was the only one he had available.
 
Went back to basics before going blind reading the schematics.
Removed all fuses. Cleaned and tested them. 2 were ng. Cleaned fuse holder block with small round wire brush. Temporarily installed rear lights.
Everything works. Even brake switches. Had to have rear directionals connected to test blinker relay..
Going to register it tomorrow. Might be riding it this weekend or next.
Came together quickly. Ill post a couple pics when its all back together.
 

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