82 interstate refurb

[Rednaxs60]

Check out the Park Tool FR-6 at a bike shop, works on the 1200 swing arm:

 

[burtonstratton]

Good on you!
Got one coming. Cheaper then a new finger. Never liked useing my cut-off saw for tool fabrication.

New question... looking down the road... the rear master cylinder needs work. Rebuild kits work for those?

Also may need new rotor (rear).
Cant find one anywhere except used - although in decent shape

Anyone ever tried to get a shop to turn the rotors?

 

[burtonstratton]

That worked perfectly! Thanks Rednaxs
Once I get the swingarm painted and re-installed I can start getting this bike put back together and see if she will run for me.
Was really hoping someone might have had some experience with brake re-build kits. both caliper and master cylinder. I'll need to get the brakes working before I can test ride.

 

[julimike54]

I used this outfit to get parts to rebuild my 1200 brake system, calipers and master cylinders

CYCLE-RE-CYCLE PART 2 - NewMotorcycleParts.net​

 

[burtonstratton]

Thank you julimike!

 

[Tom_Charlton]

You can repair the rusted thru fuel tank (if you want to) using JB Weld Tank Epoxy. Follow the instructions on the package.

 

[kerryb]

If you missed it, the manual says count the number of turns on the retaining nuts so you can put it back exactly where it was.

 

[John Freeman]

Good on you!
Got one coming. Cheaper then a new finger. Never liked useing my cut-off saw for tool fabrication.

New question... looking down the road... the rear master cylinder needs work. Rebuild kits work for those?

Also may need new rotor (rear).
Cant find one anywhere except used - although in decent shape

Anyone ever tried to get a shop to turn the rotors?

Have rebuilt many a rear master cyl and front too without a problem just as long as there's no pitting in the piston area itself. New rotors are sold on ebay and I "think", Amazon.

 

[burtonstratton]

Tank and swingarm are ready to be installed along with a cleaned up final drive. New clutch cable, 1 new throttle cable were needed. I guess now is time to change timing belts. I have seen a lot of suggestions about belts that fit but not OEM.
Cheap, but goes against my instincts on such important parts.

 

[julimike54]

The Gates belt is the ones I used for mine, they may have made all the belts anyway.

 

[burtonstratton]

Ill go search these forums and find the part number. Getting close to firing the old girl up. Also should change radiator hoses

 

[mcgovern61]

We have a great thread on all of the basic parts lists here:

https://classicgoldwings.com/threads/basic-part-numbers-list.1923/post-25655

 

[burtonstratton]

Awesome stuff!
Thank you

 

[burtonstratton]

Little project update - and a question, of course

Got the swing-arm painted and re-installed. Got the tank painted and new petcock mounted. inside of tank looked good except a couple spots that had a bit of rust that looked like more than surface rust. So I soaked with a 50% solution of muriatic acid to get rid of that. Worked very nicely. Tank is ready to install.
Got the carb assembly back in the bike. Had to replace the throttle cable that pulls the throttle back to idle if necessary. I honestly don't understand the two throttled cables. My BMWs have 2 throttle cables because there are two carburetors. Don't get the need to have one to pull back the throttle to idle. I guess it is just back up for the spring - maybe due to the complicated linkage system. Kind of a safety thing...? Also, new choke cable. Old one was broken I bet because one of the choke pivots was bound up hard. The right hand throttle run-stop-start assembly is broken, which keeps it from gripping the handlebar tightly so I have a new one on the way.
Once I get the tank in and fuel lines connected, battery box installed and radiator back on the bike and bolt on the exhaust, I can see if I can breathe some life into this motor.

So now the question: The throttle seems harder to twist than I expected. Neither of the cables has any binding noticeable - even under load. The throttle linkage moves fairly easily by hand - no cables attached. Spring is pretty strong but it has 4 carburetors to bring back to idle. Problem is I have no frame of reference other than my other 2 bikes. Just seems tougher to move than it should. It seems the two cables are pretty tight. sort of fighting each other but no means to adjust tension or play.
Not really much of a question there. Just looking to see if anyone else has struggled with this and figured this out before. I spent a good amount of time to be sure I have the cables routed correctly, no binding of any individual components.

 

[burtonstratton]

Another update.
Got her running! First time in 17 years.
Started right up. Rough idle but cant complain after a complete carb overhaul. Mouse nest blew out of exhaust - both sides. No smoke. No noises. All good.
Hoping that following the procedure for adjusting pilot screws and carb synch will smooth it out. Higher rpms smooths it out. Sounds strong.

 

[burtonstratton]

Question on carb adjustments
The factory service manual is not clear. Which should I do first?

Pilot screw adjustments or synch?
Pilot screw makes more sense to me but thought I'd throw it out there.

 

[joedrum]

Yes set pilot and go you will be all over the carbs LOL..SO MANY FACTORS AT PLAY

 

[eatherton]

Congrats

 

[DaveO430]

You can't adjust the pilot screws and expect good results until they are synched.

 

[burtonstratton]

Conflicting advise from the forum. I guess I'll synch first. I managed to turn each pilot screw out 1/2 turn. I set them at 2.5 turns to match the originals but book says start at 3.
What a PITA getting to them!
I have new tools coming. Fine tooth ratcheting finger screw bit driver.
I can get it to idle and adjust it to 950 but it is rough and when you throttle up it will hesitate just a little and occassionally backfire. It does throttle up fine, though. Just hard to tell if it is hitting on all 4 cylinders.