82 interstate refurb

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burtonstratton

Well-known member
Supporting Member
Joined
Feb 15, 2023
Messages
110
Reaction score
54
Location
Massachusetts
My Bike Models
82 GL1100 Interstate
65 BMW R50/2
71 BMW R60/5
I am trying to resurrect a project bike. Got it from a friend who gave up on trying to get it running. Thought this was a good forum to use. Never know where this project will take me. First thing i did was to make it roll. Had to remove front calipers. Replac front valve stem for tire to hold air.
Sinve then i got the ignition swith out so i could get a key made. Great locksmith locally who made me a set of keys in a day.
Next-carbs out and on the bench.
PO had purchased carb rebuilt kits. K&S. Came with new jets, pilot screws and float valves - seats and needles. I have seen many comments about not using after market valve seats.. sure enough I cant get these ro seat reliably. Carbs are very clean. I really took my time there.
Just ordered oem valve seat kits from Honda. Hoping that wasnt a waste of money.
 
Im k8nd of a stock guy. Like to bring the bikes back to life life they were new.
I have seen a few of these older GWs with a lot of chrome. Valve covers, timing belt covers, etc.
Was that a factory option or are those emebellishments?
Very pretty but dont want to go there unless it is correct
 
Soda blast on aluminum is a good place to start, then polish, then mothers polish for protection once a year. Clear coats are prone to yellowing too soon. Duplicolor cast coat aluminum color (#1615 I think) is a very close match to honda motor silver. Chrome covers are aftermarket and prone to peeling. The motor pictured is polished, not chrome.
 

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FYI, the chrome valve covers are aftermarket. Removing the chrome might not produce a decent valve cover. Might be better to get a set of OEM valve covers from Ebay and polish them up. Also, the chrome valve covers had a tendency to leak at the bottom. Will be following your progress!
 
i applaud you! you are the 1 percentile! keep it up! i noticed right away you wanted to refurb, you didnt use the words restore, bobber, cafe, or custom. give yourself a slice of raisin pie.
 
Hit a little snag today. Fuel tank leaks.
Dont have the service manual yet. Trying to get the tank out. Bike is torn down quite bit already so not much to do. Followed clymer. I dont see how this comes out without removing rear wheel.
Am i wrong?
 
Got it out. Just rear wheel. No need to remove swingarm or final drive. Tank had been repaired in the past..
Ill check condition or used tank I bought and repair-install the better of the 2.

Well, now I have access to lots of things to clean....
 
New (to me) fuel tank looks to be in better shape then mine. Sand blasted it to prepare for paint.
Is there a source for labels on these old machines.
I got the helmet lock and the air suspension labels off in one piece but the tire pressure label on the swingarm is shot. I am going to remove the swingarm so I can paint that, too. There is a fair amount of rust on it. I'm so far down the rabbit hole I just can't see reassembling the bike with a rusty swingarm. No appreciable rust anywhere else on the frame.
 
What does the inside of the tank look like? Being a bit of a ocd person myself, I get the time and effort to make the outside look nice, but a tank rusted to smit on the inside will run you though the mill in fuel troubles.
 
Muriatic acid will disolve the rust inside of the tank.
You will need to avoid the NASTY vapors that are produced.
Turning the tank around to get the entire inside.
Empty, rinse with hot water so it dries quickly.
Then coat inside with some type of oil.
As it will start to rust up again rapidly
Used transmission oil, but any type should work.
Good Luck
 
Inside of tank is in good shape. The reason for the paint job is more to do with protection than looks. The old tank rusted through from the outside. I am also going to re paint the swingarm for the same reason.
 
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