'84 1200 engine for a '82 GW

[dan filipi]

Yes that stat hole acts to allow re circulation and bleed air from the engine.

I would get an OEM replacement, I've tried the crossover stat which has a smaller center and engine ran warmer than I liked.

 

[canuckxxxx]

canuckxxxx » Wed Jun 24, 2015 6:27 am[/url]":3rbduf7s]
One of the first things I want to do is hook a battery to the starter, spin the engine over and do compression tests. So I took the front belt covers off and checked the valve timing. I think something is amiss here.

I took the right side valve cover off and watch the intake valve on #1, turned the engine over until the intake closed and then turned until T1 lined up with the marks on the case.

IMG-20150624-02797

• canuckxxxx
• Jun 24, 2015

The marks on the cam wheels and the case line up pretty good on the right side.

IMG-20150624-02799

• canuckxxxx
• Jun 24, 2015

But the left side looks to be out by at least one tooth of the cam wheel

IMG-20150624-02800

• canuckxxxx
• Jun 24, 2015

You can also see that the "up" spoke is not straight up.

IMG-20150624-02802

• canuckxxxx
• Jun 24, 2015

What do you guys think?

:thanks:
Brian

The belt for the left side cam is under some tension (the right side belt is not). If I remove the tensioner for the left belt, to correct the timing, the cam wheel will probably move in the counter clockwise direction...is that OK? Could that do harm to anything?

 

[canuckxxxx]

OK, I went ahead and put the left cam wheel in the correct alignment. Then I ran a jumper from a battery to the starter and took compression readings.

1. 120
2. 0
3. 125
4. 125

That is right 0 on #2. :head bang: In fact I was kneeled down to do the starter thing with my face close to #2 intake and could feel air blowing from that intake.

Do you think that the valve timing being off 1 tooth would had caused the piston and intake valve to come together? It was advanced by 1 tooth so intake would start opening sooner as the piston is at the top of the exhaust stroke. Could the hydraulic valve adjuster be holding the valve open? :headscratch: :headscratch:

Any thoughts or comments?

Thanks
Brian

 

[joedrum]

sounds like head off brian .....125 and 120 are not that great either ,,,do it right and take down to short block is my opinion....

 

[slabghost]

Stuck or bent valve is my guess. I agree it's probably best to remove the heads and see what ya have. Low cmpression could be stuck rings on the pistons but opened up cylinders can be deglazed for the rings to reaseat. The only real way to verify the valve condition is to get the heads off.

 

[julimike54]

Re: tubes, see below
https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/gallery/image_page.php?album_id=1183&image_id=12153

 

[ekvh]

You could get a look at the cams for anything obvious there, but the 1200 valve train hides a lot compared to early models. A total long shot of good luck might be a valve stuck open with the lifter not bled yet. Likely worse, ---- or better in my opinion. Now you have an excuse to put early heads on with more radical cams. Do it. Do it.Do it.Do it.

 

[canuckxxxx]

OK, so I removed both heads. The left one, that had the leaky #2 intake valve, looks like it has been worked on very recently. The right one looks like it has never been off before. No sign of any contact with valve on the top of #2 piston. All cylinders show no sign of distress...still show the cross hatching marks.

I leveled the left head up with combustion chamber up and filled both with varsol. After an hour there was only slight leakage past valves.

Left head

left head

• canuckxxxx
• Jun 24, 2015

Right head

right head

• canuckxxxx
• Jun 24, 2015

 

[slabghost]

So it seems one lifter in #2 may be messed up somehow. Maybe a bad cam lobe? Makes you wonder why that head was off already.

 

[canuckxxxx]

slabghost » Wed Jun 24, 2015 4:10 pm[/url]":2u7tg2z8]
So it seems one lifter in #2 may be messed up somehow. Maybe a bad cam lobe? Makes you wonder why that head was off already.

I'm out for a walk now but when I get home I'm going to bolt the cam and rocker assembly back on and see if the valves are held open. Are the auto valve adjusters prone to do bad things?

Brian

 

[slabghost]

canuckxxxx » Wed Jun 24, 2015 8:01 pm[/url]":1wjnnkx6]

slabghost » Wed Jun 24, 2015 4:10 pm[/url]":1wjnnkx6]
So it seems one lifter in #2 may be messed up somehow. Maybe a bad cam lobe? Makes you wonder why that head was off already.

I'm out for a walk now but when I get home I'm going to bolt the cam and rocker assembly back on and see if the valves are held open. Are the auto valve adjusters prone to do bad things?

Brian

Not that I know of but hydraulic lifters have been known to collapse occasionally. But that would limit their opening not ability to close. Take a really close look at the valve springs. Maybe one is broken.

 

[dan filipi]

On a 1200 I worked on, after cranking it some off and on but never starting it, it would loose compression so then once cranked to start, it would spin over almost as if the plugs weren't in. My assumption is under slow cranking or hand crank, the hydraulic adjusters leak down.
I haven't experienced this on the 1200 I have now.

 

[canuckxxxx]

Hmm, maybe that is what is going on here Dan.

Anyway, I have the heads off now so may as well go through them and know what I have.

 

[canuckxxxx]

OK so I bolted the cam shaft and the rocker assembly back onto the left head. Guess what...all the valves are now open at least a little bit. :shock: :head bang: The intake for #2 is open the most.

IMG-20150624-02808

• canuckxxxx
• Jun 24, 2015

Don't know how the auto valve adjusters work but thinking that it must be oil pressure taking up any clearance like a car hydraulic lifter.

 

[joedrum]

hmmmm well that not really a bad sign ....put the cam gear on and rotate the cam and see if the valves close and open and feel for sticky spot or hang up of valve :builder:

 

[canuckxxxx]

I came cross this after googling GL1200 valve adjusters on Goldwing docs:

"Also this is what the factory service manual says about valve adjustment.
HYDRAULIC TAPPET ADJUSTER SHIM
SELECTION
Adjust with shims the hydraulic tappet adjusters
when any of the following parts is replaced:
• Cylinder head/camshaft holder
• Camshaft
• Valve/valve seat (refaced)
• Rocker arm/rocker arm shaft"

So it looks like there are some shims to deal with in these heads. Does anyone know where I can download a GL1200 service manual?

Thanks :thanks:
Brian

 

[dan filipi]

Brian, I surfaced the heads as well as the cams on that other 1200 I worked on and the shims never needed adjusting so I'm thinking yours may be the same.
It's an easy deal to check them after everything is assembled. I had the special tool made I could send to you if you like, or you could make one. I put the specs in the gallery.

 

[ekvh]

Shop manual , Right here, go to "Gallery Tech References" banner, scroll down to gl1200 service manual.

 

[dan filipi]

1200 shim tool

 

[canuckxxxx]

ekvh » Thu Jun 25, 2015 6:29 am[/url]":itd15f0c]
Shop manual , Right here, go to "Gallery Tech References" banner, scroll down to gl1200 service manual.

Thanks Eric! That is exactly what I need. Do you just read the manual on line or can you download it?

:thanks:
Brian