Bertha's Single Carb Conversion Chapter Deaux Plus a major transplant revival

[krakum1967]

Here it is in the semi finished form, yea, the blue is going for sure, I love the black onthe motor so we will see more of that and I am painting black.

Here is the bike. I have named it FrankenBertha!

 

[joedrum]

actually plywood is best ....it is a multi layered product .....it is soft mostly and very stable ...any solid wood hard or soft is unstable to use ..once plate is made out of plywood...it may leak some air but it seals easy with a coat of wood glue paited on and is gas duty strong ...i like to over run the edges ..instead of flush as this helps hugely in the sealing process ... i have ply plates on type4 and also at heads to really seal fantastic to the heads ... 5/8" plywood seems to be to me the thinnest one could use to make stable plywood plate ... solid wood no is my opinion

 

[weightlifter99]

Good job Krakum, good job! Now you get to enjoy!

 

[krakum1967]

Just a thought joe, but I am going to use the felpro based corked rubberized gasket material for the carb base, for the seal between the 2 to 1 adapter, and the seal between the wood plate and the plenum. Going to make the air/idle interesting to get at, but oh well, need to get this sealed up, the runners are fine, I have my plywood base cut out and bored out. I am working on getting the adapter mounted, and then mounting the entire unit from there.

Quick question, do I need gaskets? I am cutting them but with that nice outer layer of wood, I thought that may be enough, but I am taking no chances.

 

[krakum1967]

Oh and the leak source was my adapter plate, it is too thin to hold strngth and when I put torque on the carriage bolts, it warped the plate. That is why I am building one made from 3/4 inch plywood.

And by disconnect the choke, where do I disconnect it?

I see what you are saying about the high idle and how wiring the butterflies back will remove it from the equation. I need to make sure my cable is long enought too as I think that when it comes off the choke idle, the cable is not letting the lever close all the way.

 

[joedrum]

yes the wood probably will seal by itself but ... the use of gaskets too will just be that much better ... on mine when i say i took the choke plates out that exactly what i did nothing but open carb .....on the 1to2 transitions piece and gasket... i mounted mine with self tapping wood screws to the plyplate and cut off excess screw ... the plat to type4 screws are easy to get too and when i remove things it from there up out of the bike

 

[Dusterdude]

I dont see why permatex wont work with the wood


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[krakum1967]

Yea I am using it in spots, like I have a plywood cavity on one of the bolt holes, so I back filled it with wood and permatex to glue it in place and seal a possible issue. Great idea on the self tapping, that gets me past the issue where the carriage bolts for the adapter were in the way of sealing the plenum. I am going back to the store and exchange my new carriage bolts for the big self tappers. Thanks Joe.

Oh I completely removed the choke, and the butterflies. Once you get into the choke (remove one screw and cut two rivets) you are able to access the three screws that holds the entire assembly. Had to wiggle out one link, but I got it out, then I pulled the two links up top and removed the butterflies.

So should I drill the throttle plates? I can wait though now with the new setup. It will be very easy to access. I was thinking of doing that, and blocking that EPA circuit.

I have a question for the others that bought carbs from Tom, did your idle solenoid come with a wire. Mine looks like it had one, but its been cut. Right on the body of the solenoid too. Useless to re-solder, but I am thinking they all come with the wire cut?

 

[weightlifter99]

Mine had the wires cut off also. And when you remove the choke DO NOT forget to take that tiny "o" ring and use a screw you removed and some jb weld or rtv and pthem back in the small vacuum hole at the top or you WILL have a leak there.

 

[krakum1967]

Thanks for that, yep, I still have a leak, and it not in the manifold. I tested all the joints, and Joe's Wood method did the trick. The adapter and the carb are all nicely seated now. Now I have to take the carb off and get to that little area you discussed. I will do it tomorrow.

I have it idling at 2000 rpm, but it will lost the vacuum and still fall off from time to time. I am rich I believe, but for now I want it on the road.

I am assuming its the top of the three mount screws, the one that is colored blue. I will have to check for the tiny o-ring tomorrow, I did not see one come off. Its a lot neater without that choke on it...lol


But progress was made, the manifold is not leaking now.

 

[krakum1967]

Thnaks weightlifter, did you have to drill your throttle plates like Joe and Dan did?

But, a brief summary, I have installed a replacement motor, we were able to verify its mileage at 35000 miles. I have completely scrapped the incredibly expensive and useless manifold kit I purchased off Flea Bay. I have those items sold through here in the interest of experimentation, and I think that is a good thing.

During the build I discovered a bad radiator, and took note of a number of items that had to be addressed. Namely the timing belts on the replacement block were badly worn. Like the original motor, I could not get it static timed, and I think the belts have an impact of that. I used the covers off my motor as the ones onthe new motor were missing or badly coroded. I have completely stripped and cleaned almost every section of the bike, so the 35 year lack of dusting has been addressed.

Since April the bike has had the following items addressed:

1) New front and rear tire (use kenda Challengers as they are 6 ply)
2) New front and rear brake pads and caliper rebuilds
3) New carburetor and manifold kit replacing the stock carbs with one Carter Weber 32/32 DFT carb
4) New battery
5) Halogen H4 conversion on front headlight


So I am hoping the ol girl has a lot of life in it yet, now to just get that last vacuum issue addressed so I can continue tuning it. I am guessing I will need to get jets and all that, but I am hoping it will run good enough for now than I can get to the issues on the wife's bike.

Gonna go lay down. I am exhausted

 

[81 Gwing]

ya need to figure out if its runnin lean or rich before drillin. look at the spark plugs, it ya think its runnin lean, choke it by hand and see if it runs better.

mine was way lean,it even ran way hotter than with the stock carbs. did you take off the idle solenoid and plug the hole. mine didnt even run with it in.

 

[krakum1967]

I actually have one more leak to fix tomorrow as I pulled the choke today. Weightlifter reminded me to plug the small vacuum hole that is left behind when the choke is pulled.

Yea, I read the plugs tonight, it is rich, but I need to finish with the leaks, and then tune the carb, and then see how it looks from there.

 

[krakum1967]

I will have to do that (the idle solenoid trick). So you just pull it and plug the hole with like JB Weld? Of do you put the solenoid back in when you are done plugging the hole? We are talking about that golden cylinder that hangs near the fuel inlet, right?

 

[81 Gwing]

did you look at the pic??

 

[81 Gwing]

krakum1967 » Mon Jul 14, 2014 10:07 pm[/url]" We are talking about that golden cylinder that hangs near the fuel inlet, right?

the other one

 

[joedrum]

i pluged mine .. it wasnt the right size threads and had to be thread sealed ..or you can disable the seliniod and use it for plug ...but that makes for hard carb adjusting

 

[81 Gwing]

this one

 

[krakum1967]

Mine came plugged, I dont have that one, my solenoid is near the fuel inlet, its just hanging there., the wire has been cut down to the base.

 

[joedrum]

i pluged mine with stick epoxy