Bertha's Single Carb Conversion Chapter Deaux Plus a major transplant revival

[81 Gwing]

krakum1967 » Sun Jul 13, 2014 5:56 pm[/url]":259r49pp]
ITSSS ALIVE!!!!!!!!!!

Hahahahahahahaha...evil goophah....mmmhahahahaha

Franken Bertha is ALIVE!!!!!!!!


It runs, it runs, my goldwing runs!!!!!!

Thank you so much, Joe, Dan, Will, Brian, all of you if I missed someone....thank you thank you thank you!!!!!!!............

:rocks: :yahoo: :good: not lets hear/see it

 

[slabghost]

Congratulations! I love this kind of post!

 

[krakum1967]

As soon as I figure out the idel, I think I need to gut the choke.

Advice please? I can start it, the choke is not wired up, but it is in there. I start it, it high idles at 3500 rpm, that I can get it to drop to 2400 if I hold the choke open, but it does fall down and stall. I think I need to dial in the idle?

Whats next, I am so excited I can't think, and I am running on about 8 hours sleep for the week. WHat should I do?

 

[krakum1967]

I was freaking out though, the pipes were SMOKING!!! I mean I killed this hatch of mosqitoes kind of bad. Then it toned down, and went away, I had to burn off all the excess crap that came out the motor when the old block popped the cork, after 5 minutes of idle, it stopped.

Man I cant wait to dial it in, it runs awesome, I just need help gettting it tuned in with my exhausted brain.

 

[krakum1967]

And the purr, my god it runs good, just need to bring it in. Should I pull the carb, and gut the choke, I can see why you guys say its not needed, I dont think its really needed.

 

[slabghost]

read Dan and Joe's posts on jetting and check your build for any leaks (air leaks).

 

[Ansimp]

:good: :salute:

 

[dan filipi]

Great!

Yes dies from high idle....check good there's no vacuum leaks.
First and foremost...there can be NO leaks.
Don't try anything else until your certain.

 

[Dusterdude]

Make sure the fast idle screw isnt turned in too far


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[krakum1967]

Which one is the fast idle screw? Is that the one on the throttle linkage? Or is it the one one the bottom of the carb. I thought that was air idle, and how many screws out should that be?

Also do I check for leak with Starter fluid?

Kraig

 

[81 Gwing]

fast idle screw

 

[Steve83]

So cool to hear she's running - you've put plenty of effort into this project! Congrats, and good luck with the dialing in! :salute:

 

[81 Gwing]

Steve83 » Sun Jul 13, 2014 7:47 pm[/url]":1jw1p1zs]
So cool to hear she's running - you've put plenty of effort into this project! Congrats, and good luck with the dialing in! :salute:

thats the hard part

 

[slabghost]

krakum1967 » Sun Jul 13, 2014 6:24 pm[/url]":11b5qnv3]
Which one is the fast idle screw? Is that the one on the throttle linkage? Or is it the one one the bottom of the carb. I thought that was air idle, and how many screws out should that be?

Also do I check for leak with Starter fluid?

Kraig

Start spray,wd40, carb cleaner and others can be used. Spray all connections from the heads on in with bike running steady. Any change in rpm (sound) indicates an air leak. Try to check one joint at a time up to and including the carb base gasket.

 

[krakum1967]

k, i have a fresh can of wd40. i have also seen brake cleaner used, it stumbles with that trick if memory serves me correctly

 

[slabghost]

have a big towel and fire extinguisher handy just in case of fire.

 

[krakum1967]

Had my best luck with WD40. I found two leaks in the number 3 cylinder (right rear sieated on bike) runner. One was at the base, it was not quite sealed over the port, and I hgad to do a minor mod of the runner bolt hole to let the front of the runner move rearward and straighten out the runner path and the rubber adapter. Than because of the odd angle of the previous attempt, it was letting air through. I suspect the wire in the hose makes for an interesting seal, so as they say in MN farmer world, "Give it to it". I tried to make another base gasket to match the runner shroud, and that was a fail. The rubberized cork failed when I torqued it down which gave me the leftover leak on the second test,

So I replaced the new gasket with my original felpro high heat cork gasket,m and torqued it down. I went through all of the connections and torqued them to 35 pounds with the actual torque wrench (impressive I know). and ran the third test. I am right as rain on the manifold side. I tried the base gasket, and I think the carb is ingesting the vapors from the top so I cant get a good read on those, That and when the RPMS changed it was more of a slow roll, so I am fairly certain the WD40 vapor cloud hit the filter. Have to block it off with a bag and run it again tomorrow just to be sure. With the leak on the runner, the rpm change was immediate, like you twisted the throttle.

BUT!!!

I am idling at 2100 to 2200 rpm. When you start it she stumbles once or twice, but then takes hold and purrs right along at 2200 rpm, goes through redline real quick. And the tone of the bike, it sounds throatier, and meaner. No more slurping sounds from the carb either. I hated that sound.

So next I try to adjust the fast idle? Also, should a neuter the choke, and how is it done?

 

[slabghost]

Disconnect the choke and wire it open.That should eliminate the fast idle screw from the equation. Then I would adjust the air/fuel mix screw for fastest rpm. Then try lowering rpm with idle screw. Might still need to adjust jetting but sounding good so far.

 

[joedrum]

hmm your bike sounds like it is straving for air at low rpm ......if there is no leaks going on ...what do the plugs look like

 

[krakum1967]

The carb was mounted straight out of the box. I have done nothing, no wiring or anything with the choke and it does hold the butterflies closed when cold and open slightly when warm, so the starvation makes sense. That is why I intend to disco it. I am pulling the carb, I need to redo the plate, mine is too lightweight. I will have to get one milled, I suck at it. It is leaking. So I want to remove the choke or set it to manual if possible

I found other leaks, but repaired them. The manifold is sealed, perfectly, so I need to not disturb the runner and handle the adjustments.

On the air/idle, generally speaking and depending on the bike, I turn them out to 1.75 to 2 turns out? And what about the fastest rpm method? Can you send me a link to read up on?

CAn I use wood for that plate? A nice oak or would I use a softer wood?

Would timing have anything to do with it, I need to double check that, come to think of it I should check that.

I read the plugs, the are gray but on the dark side, but the edges are white, and the electrode is a nice grey white. Definitely not wet. I also did a change on the Number 3 runner and noted the moisture in the runners. Darn near dry, just a little mist on the walls, but compared to the other unit, it would be dripping gas by the time I finished a run.

Anyway, the color of the plug is okay, I would like to see it slightly more gray bt they are burning. Anyway, you are right Joe, its air starved below 2000 rpm.