Dan's carb reconditioning done on the cheap

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Dan do you plan to disassemble the carbs after the soak to gauge your success?
 
Ansimp":806eispg said:
Dan do you plan to disassemble the carbs after the soak to gauge your success?
Yes but I'm opening them up only far enough to clean the jets and sliders as needed.
Cleaning the jets and slides require no seal changing.
I've already seen that the bowl gaskets are in good shape.
The one air cutoff I could get into is in good shape so I'm hopeful the others are also.

I'm going to come up with a way to remove the cutoffs without separating the carbs from the plenum.

No cleaners like carb spray will be used.
Many of them will just destroy the seals leading to trouble.
 
dan filipi":23jwphuz said:
There are obviously extreme cases where, like that one in roncar's pictures and others I've seen, there may not be any choice but to completely disassemble them to get them clean but I believe in most cases a set of carbs doesn't need new seals if handled properly.

I'm sure there are plenty would disagree with me.
The things that concerns me....

1. If the ATF does it's job and gets in everywhere, I don't see how you will get it all out of the carbs passages, without fully disassembling as much as possible.

2. At the prices you stated, a near $40 bath is a lot more than distilled water (I actually used tap :blush: ) Everything was frozen tight and the water dissolved the residue, and everything moved/came apart easily.

3. I have several HF oring kits. None of the included orings, at least on 1000 carbs, are a perfect match. Have to go with close enough, and hope it works.

4. I have and will continue to reuse seals, gaskets, and orings when I can. (I was recently informed that if you Google 'cheep', you will see a picture of roncar. :doh: )

I will be following your results and am interested in what the outcome will be. My only 'real' concern right now is the cost of the bath. That's money that would go a long way towards just replacing the orings. https://www.partsnmore.com/parts/honda/gl1100/?filters[category]=carb&filters[fitting]=custom&filters[year]=1983
1100carborings.png
dan filipi":23jwphuz said:
The one air cutoff I could get into is in good shape so I'm hopeful the others are also
That will determine how much of a 'budget' rebuild this will be. :beg:
 
" I was recently informed that if you Google 'cheep', you will see a picture of roncar. "

I thought you were kidding Ron, but, hey nice picture anyways. Now maybe you can splain why your picture is under Google for cheep. Cheap?

Now back to our regularly scheduled program. I am curious how this works out too. Any concern of the diesel fuel eating the rubber?
 
I'm curious too about how the atf and diesel fuel work on removing the old varnish in the carbs. Last year when I cleaned and rebuilt my carbs (on my 1200), I just bought the minimum Honda seal kit for each carb at about $10 per carb because mine seals were all dry rotted. I soaked all the parts in a $16 dollar can of carb cleaner. As far as the diesel fuel eating the rubber, I think it will be alot easyier on the rubber then the gasoline that they normally see. just my .02
 
I'm going to give this atf mix a week then have a look at the float bowls.
If it doesn't seem to be dissolving the varnish then I might pour in a gallon of gasoline to the mix.
I think that will spice up the cutting action.
 
joedrum":y9qg7uxz said:
:fishin: patience all :Awe: :smilie_happy: :mrgreen:
Yes!!

One slider comes out now and the gunk in bottom of the bowls is loosening up!
 
I went ahead and poured a gallon of old gas into the mix.
Should be interesting :popcorn:
I'm sure if I could get this mix to move, the carbs would be clean in little time.
 
mount an orbital sander to the table to vibrate it? Well you could have before the gasoline but now I think it'd be a fire hazard with gas in the mix.
 
Everything is starting to let loose.
I'm very pleased so far:

Removing the float, float needle, and float seat:


Removing the idle mixture screws:


Removing the idle and primary jets:


A look at the vacuum slides and cap sealing ring:

 

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