Doesn't seem right!

[Ansimp]

brianinpa » Sat Apr 25, 2015 5:45 am[/url]":1r6xjoh4]
Umm, just wait until you are tickling the red line in fifth gear. That is interesting. :mrgreen:

GPS said 105mph :yes:
As a Harley rider it can take a bit to feel confident pulling redline on the OldWing. The Rats Nest sees it pretty much every time it is ridden but it does have new timing belts and plenty of fresh oil :yes:

 

[Lowrider]

My Lowrider is an '03 with an 88 so it takes a tale wind and a small hill to hit 105 and then the speedo is probably lying.

I did 150 or so with my Bandit and it was not a fun thing to do...couldn't keep my feet on the pegs. 80 on the Wing is enough especially doing it behind that big windshield and Mountain Dew (without an umbrella) in my hand. She does have a throttle lock so I can eat and drink at the same time.

I figured out the backrest thing...paint is drying now.

 

[Terry]

Yep, that's how feel. If it ain't broke, don't mess with it. Mine has the original carbs that work great. Fires up good even without choking unless it's totally freezing out, smooth idle, no flat spots or stumbles, 40+ mpg.
For an old relic and a carbureted bike, it impresses me in this area.

bronko37 » Today, 8:10 am[/url]":3dmlez5f]
IMHO the single carb mod is more for simplicity and for the joy of tinkering. You really dont gain any HP or performance, unless your stock rack is in really poor shape. Stock rack in perfect shape vs. single carb mod thats done really really well are going to run the same.

DONT SHOOT ME GUYS..... :blush: I'm not sayin, I'm just sayin....

 

[Lowrider]

I agree with you Terry, about don't fool with it unless it doesn't work right. Part of the reason I was interested in the single carb is mine isn't running great yet. But, I need to give it time to get right from some tuning before I give up on it. One new carb just seems to remove a lot of potential problems... but then I need to play with the 1100 and give it a fair chance before I do anything rash. Simple just seems better to me...like the KISS principle. It's a well engineered machine but it's not necessarily simple.

 

[dkl]

I have a 81 single carb set-up it runs great, I have a 82 with stock carbs it runs great,,,,,that should clear things up for ya !!!!!! I have a really good, simple, and cheap single carb set-up, but I have no intention of changing the stock carbs on my wife's bike unless I have to.............My comment about RPM and Speed, these engines were made to operate at higher RPMs, that throttle rotates for a reason, Twist it with Gusto.

 

[Old Fogey]

The stock 1100 carbs are pretty simple to overhaul, if a bit expensive due to the 4 cut-off valves. The only bugbear on the 80-81s is the pressed in jet. (no, they don't all want to come out like in your tech tip, Dan!)

Much, much easier than the earlier 1000 PITA units.

 

[Denver]

K & N air filter if your stocker is dirty, is one of the first things I replace, little more cash but you never need another. Have them in all my vehicles, including cars. Gives you more air, :good: & jumping up a main jet size, when your inside,( if necessary) will give you a little more fuel as the factory sets them lean for emissions. Many people leave jets alone, & that's fine with me. :thank_you:

 

[Lowrider]

I have a K&N on order and have thought the "C" shaped air intake may be a little restrictive too. Not sure how to fix it with out removing it.

I probably need to consider a size larger jets since I run to 6-8K feet a lot anyway...sorry to hear they are pressed in. Do I need to pull the carbs to replace the jets? What's a good source for them and what size would be appropriate??

I did some polishing last night and she gets prettier as I get her cleaned up.

 

[dkl]

Be sure and check brakes after riding an old Bike for awhile, these are notorious for not fully releasing. Dragging brakes sometimes are hard to diagnose, and reduce top end speed. Back pedal is usually the culprit.

 

[Lowrider]

Back brake is mushy and not doing much at the moment. I did refill and spin the rear wheel so I don't think it's dragging but it definately needs work. Front brake functions as designed. Thanks for the tip!

 

[dan filipi]

Most times the pressed in jets do come out.
It is delicate work as is most carb work so smart hands are needed.

As for different jets, i have never seen a source but that doesn't mean they aren't out there.
With the right drill bit it's a easy job to change the size, especially richer but I would advise going through the carbs very carefully to bring them back to like new spec before going there.

 

[Lowrider]

Good advice Dan. Given the elevations I ride I thought the carbs should run a little richer or am I going the wrong way?

 

[slabghost]

Lowrider » Sat Apr 25, 2015 9:45 am[/url]":3f9ue8ji]
Good advice Dan. Given the elevations I ride I thought the carbs should run a little richer or am I going the wrong way?

I have both 80 and 81 wings. Pressed in jets aren't a big bother to get out even though the manual tells you they are not removable. To go a little richer I suggest you get to the desired elevation and reset your mixture screws per manual up to the idle drop procedure. I prefer to omit that step myself. Going lean after getting the best power is counter productive. I think you will find this will richen it enough you won't need bigger jets.

 

[dan filipi]

Something to concider on these CV carbs is they are dependant on a certain vacuum to operate properly. That is they need a restriction in the intake air. How much nobody knows but changing that restriction with different air filters can have an effect. Could be an improvement or could have a negative effect but worth keeping in mind.

 

[Lowrider]

Mixture screws it is!

I was thinking of removing the air filter intake cover to allow it to get more air. I have a K&N filter coming but that seems to be counter to the vacuum needed to run properly. Guess I'll try the K&N and see how it improves things.

I called the fellow I bought the bike from and asked him if he had the cam timing belts changed and he said he had not. He said they are good for maybe 50K miles and not to worry about them regardless of how old they are. I don't like that idea and I have ordered belts anyway. What do you folks think about age not being a factor. The bike has 12.5K miles. THe reason I ask is I'm doing a 1K mile trip next week and I will take my Harley but I'd like use the 1100 but I"m sure the new belts won't be here by then. Thoughts?

 

[dan filipi]

I should add that the whole vacuum in the intake itself is hearsay.
I have run with stock air filter, with k&n and NO filter and felt no difference.
Try it out and run what you feel best suits you.

 

[julimike54]

I recently went through the same they're not that old mileage wise. What sealed the deal to change them, was talking to a mechanic friend & he said they are rubber, they get old, several car manufacturers give a time & mileage figure, 7-10 years. Last thing he said, which is cheaper belts or piston & valves meeting? I changed them, took them to him to look at, he said they don't look bad but loose a couple of teeth & it won't look good, that's how they see them fail usually and when they go it's not purty

 

[zman]

Yea, change them, I had factory honda belts with 9K on them and they looked perfect but changed them anyways, hate looking at those belts hanging on the wall, feel like I could use them but just don't want to risk it.

 

[slabghost]

I've had a few belts in cars fail. the belt itself was fine but timing was way off due to about 20 missing teeth. Wouldn't chance it.

 

[Lowrider]

Yip, pretty much how I felt too.

I'm changing out fuel line and the old fuel line is fabric wrapped red rubber and it is a disaster, not leaking but about to do so. When I pulled the wire clamp down off the petcock the hose came apart in chunks.

Better to wait for the belts and the old Harley is a comfortable ride anyway.