Here she is, I named her, "the Wanderer "

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Every thing has to line up at least as close to perfect as before, :popcorn: or closer than it was before you started. :thank_you:
 
Put them on. If they go back as they were you should be okay. They can appear to be 1/2 tooth off if the tdc mark is off a bit or just because the tensioners are not in use yet. Leave all the rockers loose and install the belts. Turn the motor by hand all the way back to TDC and check they line up. Pay close attention as you turn over the motor stop if you feel it catch anywhere.
 
Just be sure to check and recheck the crank is on tdc1 at the timing window.
Crank always moves a tad when I do belts.
Turn the engine back on the mark and recheck cam pulley marks.
 
ok made to care ... this is where things get a little dangerous and also hard to understand....usually the left head the belt goes on rather easy .....and somtimes looks to be off a bit ....belts are flimsy ....valve are not ..so if there is backwards push on the belt and belt is not tension good yet it can go away from the pulley mark a bit ....if you turn the motor some and find a free spot ..the right head has a lot of tension on it and is rather hard to get on right ...but once you get the belts on you can turn the motor by hand with the crank bolt and find a free spot or not tension on belt from valve springs at all ...this is when you set belt tension on that head ....it will free spot one head at a time ..you wil have to move crank again to get free spot on other head ....tension once in the free spot should be where there is about a 1/4" deflection total moving belt up and down on the strait side of belt ...when this is done the mark should be line up rather perfect if it gets worse its wrong for sure...once both sides are done turn crank many times by hand slowly and feel for any kind of interference perferably with adjuster back off valves but not necessary ...take pics of pulley marks as you see them right and post it on forum to get opinions before ever trying to start it or use starter at all
 
Good advice. :good: Slightly off when it came apart, will not be farther off but closer. Check everything over, turn over by hand to make sure things look right, & you'll be fine.
 
I've attempted the wrench on the pulley with zip tie trick and I can't get the belt under the tensioner, since I have to rotate pulley back to get slack. Without the zip tie trick I can get the belt on. Crank is on T1 mark but left pulley is off a tooth. Moving on to right side now.
 
Here is the best tutorial on changing the timing belts, and how to properly adjust the tensioners. I really like this one and referred back to it many times while I was learning. You will find the specifics for belt tensioning about 3/4 of the way down the thread.

Enjoi...

https://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums/10- ... orial.html


I have tensioned my belts this way several times and it works perfectly as described. No more guess work!
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=162748#p162748:3mbwfhor said:
joedrum » 1 minute ago[/url]":3mbwfhor]
take the bolt out of the adjustable sid of tensioner and loosen the fix side this will allow you to get belt on tensioner

That will help, thanks
 
Belts are on. The tip too remove sliding tension bolt and loosen fixed tension bolt really helped. I also made this tool to move the pulley by hand and I was able to get the right side right on mark. I'm tempted to remove belts again and go back to left side and get it lined up perfectly since I didn't use the tool on that side.

Picture angles are not true to what i see. Right side using my makeshift tool is spot on and with the tension cam (if that's what its called) being loosened, this was easy, however, i still need to check the belt tension. I just went by feel.
The left side is off a tooth.
 

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Looks good to me. No resistance turning it through by hand? if so go ahead and set the valves. If you set both valves one cylinder at a time and turn the motor over by hand. You will know exactly which is a problem should you have a problem.
 
Do i go ahead and turn the crank slowly to check marks or should i go back and redo the left side and therefore will have to redo right side but i think i have the hang of this now.
 
It looks to me like the marks before so I'd turn it through a time or two. Try this first. Turn the crank enough to line up the cam marks as close to perfect as you can then check to see if T1 mark is lined up.
 
Just turned the crank all way round to T1 and no resistance. I say that, at one point there was slight but not much. All marks lined up. This is a little crazy for my first time. Wow. :music2:
 
Ran it around again. On T1 right side is spot on and left is still same, off a tooth like i set it.
Is it normal for crank to have some resistance at the first 90 from T1 and then it gets pretty easy to turn, then some slight resistance at last 90 just before coming around to T1? The resistance isn't like I have to muscle it, there is just some there and then its very easy to turn. I believe it was like that before I took everything apart. I'm trying to use that memory as a reference point.
 
I think i need to take a break and relax. I'm excited but don't want to get too excited since I haven't checked the valves and will have to read on how to do that.
 
its looking good to me ..ive been sick and fevered bad .. i tried to explain the thwe way i tension the belts and it reads bad ..i dont post good on my best days and when fevered i can post terrible ....i wont try again as im sure i wont explain it right ...but for sure run the crank by hand through at least 4 complete revolutions to make sure your confident nothing hitting ..take break of feel good and do it again ..just to be sure made to care ..to me belt tensioning is big deal ..maybe someone can post something better than i did ,,,,to help you there im rather to sick to post right now
 
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