Here she is, I named her, "the Wanderer "

[dan filipi]

That's right.

 

[made2care]

Cam seals should come in today. Since I have quite a bit of stuff removed, should I check the coils and if so, how is that done? Anyone replaced theirs with Accel Supercoil Kit and was it worth it.

 

[joedrum]

i dont personally but craftmans dose ...maybe he wil comment on accell coils

 

[Denver]

The 1500 coils are supposed mount up,& work, :read: good used sets are abundant, :yes: plus you get an extra coil in the process. :yahoo:

 

[chilidawg]

I know people who have used coils meant for a Dodge Neon and they're cheap all day long at O'Rielly's.

 

[made2care]

Switching back to the heads. I put new oil seals in, pretty easy and then I turned pulley ( I have not installed the heads to block yet) to line up timing marks on pulley and heat shield. The left lined up nicely but the right is getting some resistance from one of the valve springs. Is this normal? its off about 5 teeth or so. I can move it to the mark, however when i let go it springs back to being off 5 teeth. When i eventually get the head mounted to the block I guess i must move pulley to timing mark and somehow clamp pulley when installing belt? or i could just hold it on the mark? Am i making any sense?

 

[made2care]

Failed to mention the valve adjusters are backed off all the way.

 

[slabghost]

It's normal. It's still getting spring pressure from a valve pushing it.

 

[made2care]

When pulley is on its mark, shouldn't valves be seated flush?

 

[made2care]

Tons of questions again. i noticed one of the springs had the small end( closer wound metal) facing up towards the valve screw , while all of the other springs were small side down. should this be fixed?

 

[slabghost]

Only one cylinder is getting ready to fire at a time. So no on the valves being all seated at TDC. Take pics of the springs in question but I doubt it's an issue if was running all this time like that.

 

[made2care]

I had a shop install the valve seats and it appears as though they just installed an outer spring upside down. I guess i can take it back to them to turn it right side up. The manual states the closer wound end faces the head.

 

[slabghost]

Sounds right. I had forgotten the valve seals.

 

[dan filipi]

I'm not sure, would like to see a picture.

 

[bronko37]

made2care » Thu Nov 05, 2015 8:07 pm[/url]":3nb6dgqw]
Switching back to the heads. I put new oil seals in, pretty easy and then I turned pulley ( I have not installed the heads to block yet) to line up timing marks on pulley and heat shield. The left lined up nicely but the right is getting some resistance from one of the valve springs. Is this normal? its off about 5 teeth or so. I can move it to the mark, however when i let go it springs back to being off 5 teeth. When i eventually get the head mounted to the block I guess i must move pulley to timing mark and somehow clamp pulley when installing belt? or i could just hold it on the mark? Am i making any sense?

When it comes to the actual install and you are ready for belts and such, I like to leave my wrench on the nut that holds the pulley on, on the right side (cylinders 1&3). I use the leverage of the wrench on the bolt to line the pulley up to the mark on the cover. Then I use a zip tie to fasten the wrench to the frame, thus holding the pulley in the correct position. Works like a charm. Once you get it all lined up the belt will keep it from slipping back. The cam is always gonna wanna push that pulley around, thats normal.

 

[julimike54]

bronko37 » Today, 12:47 pm[/url]":33xfl4zk]

made2care » Thu Nov 05, 2015 8:07 pm[/url]":33xfl4zk]
Switching back to the heads. I put new oil seals in, pretty easy and then I turned pulley ( I have not installed the heads to block yet) to line up timing marks on pulley and heat shield. The left lined up nicely but the right is getting some resistance from one of the valve springs. Is this normal? its off about 5 teeth or so. I can move it to the mark, however when i let go it springs back to being off 5 teeth. When i eventually get the head mounted to the block I guess i must move pulley to timing mark and somehow clamp pulley when installing belt? or i could just hold it on the mark? Am i making any sense?

When it comes to the actual install and you are ready for belts and such, I like to leave my wrench on the nut that holds the pulley on, on the right side (cylinders 1&3). I use the leverage of the wrench on the bolt to line the pulley up to the mark on the cover. Then I use a zip tie to fasten the wrench to the frame, thus holding the pulley in the correct position. Works like a charm. Once you get it all lined up the belt will keep it from slipping back. The cam is always gonna wanna push that pulley around, thats normal.

+1 on the wrench trick

 

[made2care]

Now it makes sense. Thanks. Okay boys and girls, I have everything ready to put these heads back on this weekend. I'm going to carefully go over Dans checklist on this thread. Will get a video out but not sure it will be this weekend. I still have to get new radiator hose and refurbish radiator. I am excited to get the heads on though and thank you for everyone's help thus far :BigGrin:

 

[rob.lafady]

I found this information for making your radiator hoses out of one Napa hose.

Sent from my HTC One M9 using Tapatalk

 

[made2care]

Bolts and washers are cleaned and greased. oil orfice cleaned , new o-rings. Can I use acetone to clean head and block. Don't have any rubbing alcohol around the house.

 

[made2care]

Just watched Dan's video again. Will use brake cleaner to do a final wipe and then on she goes. Just being extra careful.