Here she is, I named her, "the Wanderer "

[slabghost]

I prefer to just bolt the heads on snugly just a tad over contact. Then get the belts on. That way if I really screw up and damage a valve or something I can remove the head leaving the gasket still usable.

 

[dan filipi]

I've never used acetone, only brake cleaner but I imagine it would be okay.
What you're after is a completely clean and dry oil free surface.

 

[made2care]

Left head is on, no issues.

 

[slabghost]

Alrighty then!

 

[made2care]

Here are a few pics. Is some gasket overhang all the way round.

 

[dan filipi]

I see a hair of overhang on both my engines.

 

[made2care]

About to torque cam carrier.
So 12ft/lbs not 20 on the cam carriers like chilidawg suggested.

 

[dan filipi]

Double check that in the manual.
I advise using a inch pound torque wrench instead of a foot pound.
At least the ones I've used down that low in torque haven't been very accurate. I usually use the torque wrench in my elbow for those smaller bolts.

 

[made2care]

I torqued to 17 nm.

 

[dan filipi]

Sounds good.
Even torques gradually in a cross patten, like we do with the head bolts is best.

 

[made2care]

And yet another question. I will install right head tomorrow. Still trying to figure out how to get the little arm that hangs down inside the fuel pump to latch on to the cam drive. Manual states a caution here with the install, instructing to turn the fuel pump housing to prevent damage to the pump. Can't figure this one out. Do i have to take the pump apart to make this work?

 

[chilidawg]

Nope, don't separate the fuel pump!

Getting that thing on is like pulling the carburetors, you will fu.. mess with it for a while, before it just slips on, like you thought it should at the start.

It's going onto a cam, remember the arm oscillates to pump fuel.

If you really can't get it to seat then leave it till last, put it on after the heads & belts are on and move the engine around until it's easier.

Good choice with the cam carrier torque, 17Nm is 12.5 foot pounds. you do not want to be stripping those head threads.

 

[made2care]

Right head on, no issues. Fuel pump pops right in if you tilt it forward while attaching. The little pump arm pops right onto the cam when tilted. Next up , timing belts.

 

[mcgovern61]

opcorn: :wave:

 

[slabghost]

looking good from here!

 

[joedrum]

good deal

 

[made2care]

Can't seem to find the torque for the heat shield bolts. I'm sure its not much but since it screws into the head just want to do it right.

 

[mcgovern61]

made2care » Mon Nov 09, 2015 7:54 am[/url]":zbyxc0ed]
Can't seem to find the torque for the heat shield bolts. I'm sure its not much but since it screws into the head just want to do it right.

I tighten them just up until my wrist pulls just a hair past the pull on my knuckles. :hihihi: (hand tight and 1/4 turn)

 

[bronko37]

made2care » Mon Nov 09, 2015 7:54 am[/url]":3q47gq12]
Can't seem to find the torque for the heat shield bolts. I'm sure its not much but since it screws into the head just want to do it right.

Good for you man. It has been really awesome following this thread and watching you really begin to understand the bike and what you are doing. The learning is evident. 2 years ago I almost sold my '76 I was so intimidated by the carb work. This winter Im pulling the engine to give it an overhaul. I love wrenching on these old bikes, a truly rewarding experience. Keep up the good work!

 

[made2care]

Another question. Having a tough time lining up the pulley marks. They are just off a tooth. This is how it was when I removed the belts and the bike ran great. Can I jus
T install the new belts at these marks?