hooch blew a head gasket

[joedrum]

well im going to use a gasket LOL...and the prep work continues ..there no doubt in my mind that for copper things really have to be raised up over stock level as in flatness ...both heads now are looking good and super flat...the block is still progressing ...copper being so substantial in thickness will take car of piston rise for sure ...

standard milling processes cut lines all the threw mating surfaces ..and leave huge potential for not sealing ...at a high level any marks made need to dead end in mating as much as possible and of course the cylinder sleevs is the most important to get good....

pics

ahh changed color of camera from black to red and that fixed lol...pis of other side head ....getting rather good

block on this side has ways to goyet ...you can see machining marks and others still ...

 

[dan filipi]

I would get those guide pins out. When talking less than .001 gasket compression, the smallest amount of variation in the deck will cause problems.

 

[Omega Man]

Joe, I envy your comfortableness with ripping an engine apart the way you and others here do. I hate that I'm so confident in most aspects of my life but not while working on my Wing.

I'd like to buy those smart hands of yours!

~O~

 

[ekvh]

I got a price quite on the stainless rings. $20 each. I don't need them.

 

[slabghost]

For that price? Me either!

 

[joedrum]

pics

pic shows it looks bad but it not really getting better all the time

im done for the day didnt do a lot really but ill be on it tomorrow big time

 

[dan filipi]

ekvh » Today, 2:41 pm[/url]":3hd8p191]
I got a price quite on the stainless rings. $20 each. I don't need them.

I've read the O ring needs a groove for it to sit in. Is that true?

 

[joedrum]

most do need groove some are just placed on gasket

 

[ekvh]

The ones this guy sells are 0.004" and have a small tang which helps affix it to the copper. No groove needed for this style. It is thought to give a little more strength to combustion for boosted applications. For most of us it isn't necessary and at $80- it would have to be needed before I'd do it. I can see if going turbo or supercharger. It sounds like the mods we're doing are at about the peak that this motor can handle without pinning bearings. There are a handful of people out there who built up Goldwings and most I know of said they had problems spinning the bearings.

I wish I knew if pinning the bearings means the outer bearings? Crank bearing shells? Rod bearings? If I ever get to rebuilding my 1200 with a bent rod, I'd like to try it. I googled it and found some info showing just pinning the races of the outer bearings. That didn't look too bad. Anyone else know what else it means?

 

[slabghost]

Most "spun" bearings are either rod or crank bearings. Both of which can be pinned but I expect you'll need some special tools to drill them and the pins. As long as the oil pump is healthy and oil flow sufficient I see no real need. Looking around I see the civic has pistons the right size they should fit the 1200. Maybe their rods work too?

 

[joedrum]

well my bike is made in a way that brings in huge power boost and is also more reliable than stock ...super chargers and other hi dollar mods actually make a less reliable bike ...totally not me ....the goo head gaskets is not up to my standards for my bike ...this whole mod if its successful will make the bike even more rock solid ....there is also wiring up grades and some more carb mods im going to try also to get even more power and reliability built in ...todayi hope to get all the head and block work done for the copper gaskets....

 

[joedrum]

pic

in the end i decided im going to use the sealant with the copper gaskets...so i had to make a place for all this to go nice and smoothly and consistent ....im using a small file file to do this ..its like a 6" cutting surface doulble cut and 8"plus overall with the tail end ...sun kind of makes pic look a bit funky....

 

[joedrum]

pics

other head roughed up and ready to go ...

block is ready also except some cleaning of cylinders , water jacket and pistons on one side ....

going to look at carb now and make new plywood intake gaskets

 

[slabghost]

Looking good from here!

 

[Ansimp]

slabghost » Mon Mar 27, 2017 3:50 am[/url]":2awqof5l]
Looking good from here!

+1
Also looking good from further away!! :smilie_happy:

 

[dan filipi]

That tarp has seen better days.

 

[joedrum]

ok i only need one thing now ..a good sealant for the head gaskets ..ive never used these products much so im a bit clueless here ..like to here opinions on something i might be able to get locally thanks

 

[slabghost]

My personal preference is Copper Coat spray. For these gaskets. 3 coats on both sides let it dry to where it's pretty sticky. Regardless what sealant you choose. Be sure the gaskets and mating surfaces are absolutely clean of oils including finger prints. I strongly advise against any type of rtv.

 

[dan filipi]

I would use a spray on like coppercoat. I think even Walmart stores sell it.

My reasoning for using copper spray on is I believe copper to copper is better than another product that doesn't use copper. You're using the same metal that way.

I would use 3 thin coats, spray on only to "wet" the surface evenly between coats. Each coat almost dry but still tacky. Let 3rd coat dry to the same point then assemble. One 9 oz can should be enough. Shake the can to mix very well with the ball before each coat so the copper is mixed in well.

On pre-prepped head and block, just before assembly wash them down with brake cleaner and wipe with a new clean rag. A cloth t-shirt works good. Repeat this a second time. Don't touch any part of the surfaces to prevent any oils.
Careful to place the gasket so it doesnt get slid across anything to mark the copper coat.
Last time I put a couple head bolts in the head, placed the gasket on those bolts, then place head on block. This seemed easiest to prevent the gasket from moving around.

Torque the bolts as usual then let set for 24 hours before adding coolant and starting.

 

[ekvh]

I used copper coat, cottage cheese version.

I was all fired up to spray three nice even coats on it. Others who know how it should go figure I just got a bad can. So my advice is to practice a bit on something to make sure the nozzle is clear.

I opted instead for Permatex Aviation Sealant. I talked with a few guys. Some said it would seal the water chambers better.