hooch getting a new fuel source

[Ansimp]

joedrum » Sat Feb 08, 2014 2:23 am[/url]":qngeumuv]
https://www.ebay.com/itm/GT15-T15-Turbo- ... 0618191%26

this is on I an looking at Gerry right now ...there are others also that seem fine ... I am looking for all input as always :mrgreen:

I can't believe how cheap that is...Can't wait to see the development :good:

 

[HOTT]

... I am looking for all input as always :mrgreen:

the GT15 is a cool set-up.
Joe,
I would recommend a draw through (sucker)
if you're going to use your carb.
Carb blow through's are a giant PITA. Just sayin'
The NGW project is a fuelie blow through.

HOTT

 

[joedrum]

hmmmmmmmm

 

[Ansimp]

+1 on the draw thru

 

[joedrum]

how do I set this up for that ... these turbos are cheap ...but I need some input on how to configure this up right ..sheesh it seems finding useful info is rough so far :help:

 

[sgq700]

+2 on the draw thru, i am with HOTT! i turbo'd a old 170ci slant six and the draw thru was MUCH more forgiving than the blo thru for me.. :wave:

 

[joedrum]

reading about things just dosnt excite me .. seems to be to discounts for reliability for me .. seems I think I will put this on hold till I learn more

 

[ekvh]

I've been reading up for a good year now. There many opinions of draw through vs blow through. If you go draw through, according to what I've read, you need a sealed turbo to keep the af mixture where it should be, not in bearings, oil or coolant. Most newer ones are not sealed since they are set up for efi. I will post some sites where guys have gone blow through with 32/36 with minor changes up to 8 lbs boost. More than that and you have to rebuild the carb to ensure you're not leaking fuel all over, not good especially on a bike. Most use an elec fuel pump which boosts fuel pressure 1:1 for every pound of boost it sees, about 3 lbsto start.

 

[ekvh]

This guy has done it with a 1000cc vtwin bike engine in a buggy:
https://buggynews.com/weber-32-36-conver ... 31454.html

this is bike stuff but older
https://www.unclebobsturbos.com/newbie.html

Aussie and expensive

https://www.turbogemini.com/Blow%20Throu ... %20Kit.htm

This site has mostly muscle cars, but a few smaller versions and has a carbureted section.

www.theturboforums.com

 

[joedrum]

well things are starting to get where I can work on the bikes some as well as building the snow has finally gone after being here over a month now solid ... ive never been so glad to see mud LOL

 

[AApple]

... ive never been so glad to see mud LOL

:smilie_happy: :hihihi:

Make some mud pies, Joe!

 

[joedrum]

well had hooch running for the last time as it is now ... ran well ...didn't idle that well but it still kind of cold here ... but it fired right up .. and tacked out well just off idle ..its way to cold to ride so that didn't happen ...I just wanted to see if things were good with the set up and the winter long non running didn't effect it much ....

hooch is getting carb change .. to bigger carb ... transition high rise choke... and grab bar runners...

the grab bar runners I like cause it makes for easy on off runner hook up .. very easy to deal with I am thinking ... and very neat it comes apart so easy ... bigger carb hooch has already had it on ... it was the first one a tried amd the one one that showed the most power in the primary.... I am thinking now I can get the secondary to work better now that ive got this carb more figured out ... I am looking at some big time power here ....im also going to look at the heating deal ive got all kinds of ideas now for all the work that's been done here .... :builder: :mrgreen:

 

[joedrum]

:yahoo: I finally got my grab bars for hooch ..... I want to think shovel king for this very creative revelation that a glacier bay grab bar was the perfect runner building addition to the typ4 plenum ....and also the 1 1/2" size as the one to get ... the ID inside grab bar is right at the same size as stock intake horn just slightly smaller ...

I find myself guilty of what I cant stand .... running my mouth pass my experience ....after looking at both setups 1 1/4 and 1 1/2 it was obvious to me that my advice to 1 1/4 was short sighted as I view it now ... as brian has already said the 1 1/4 grab bar is lower than 1 1/2 bar making elbow more restrictive than stock .. this trumps runner size big time in my view ... I will from now on be even more careful of what I say ... I try never to speculate much except it seems to be 100% of all my projects are based on speculation from me ....but I try to keep advice more concrete ... sorry as I do think I was wrong .. oh2:

anyway heres a pic of a grab bar .... hooch is going stainless steel .... I will try and do the best I can on pics of the process of installing the runners

 

[canuckxxxx]

Joe,

Looking at the picture of your grab bar it looks like the flange has a raised part where the pipe meets the flange. My Moen grab bars had that raised part too and I found that, when you trim that flange away to match the GW head, there is only about 1/16" - 1/8" of flat flange that rests on the head. The ones that Shovelking used had completely flat flanges which would be better. That is one of the reasons why I brazed those brass doughnut onto the flanges.

Just suggesting that you take a look at it before you start cutting those grab rails so you could take them back it you wanted to.

Are you going to run the grab rails all the way to the plenum and then use rubber boots to connect to the plenum?

Brian

 

[canuckxxxx]

canuckxxxx » Sun Feb 23, 2014 6:47 am[/url]":2mzm14uj]
Joe,

Looking at the picture of your grab bar it looks like the flange has a raised part where the pipe meets the flange. My Moen grab bars had that raised part too and I found that, when you trim that flange away to match the GW head, there is only about 1/16" - 1/8" of flat flange that rests on the head. The ones that Shovelking used had completely flat flanges which would be better. That is one of the reasons why I brazed those brass doughnut onto the flanges.

Just suggesting that you take a look at it before you start cutting those grab rails so you could take them back it you wanted to.

Are you going to run the grab rails all the way to the plenum and then use rubber boots to connect to the plenum?

Brian

On second thought, I had 1/16" - 1/8" of flat flange with my 1 1/4" grab rails. With your 1 1/2" rails you might not have any flat part.

Brian

 

[canuckxxxx]

Here is what I am talking about with the raised part of the flange; see how the flange in the top pic has a raised part where the pipe meets the flange whereas the other flange is just flat.

Brian

closeup of grab rail flange with raised part

• canuckxxxx
• Feb 23, 2014

 

[canuckxxxx]

What I can't figure out is how you can design a grab bar without having a GW head on hand to see how the flanges would fit. :head bang:

 

[canuckxxxx]

Here is a Moen grab bar that seems to have either type of flange available but I don't know how you would order the flat one.
https://www.amazon.ca/Moen-R7424-24-Inch ... n+grab+bar

 

[joedrum]

well brian your making a good case for not trimming it much just enough to work ... I think my bars are different than shovelkings too even though same company ....hmmmm cutting it like stock only weakens it ... no reason but bling to to do that ... I am not much on bling work ... I will make sure I keep it big brian thanks ....

some pics

pic not all that great but you can see ..what I am doing ..going with 32-34 carb and 24-25 chokes a step up in carb size DFT and 740 series ...it will be mounted to the transition high rise from 1 to 2 barrel carb ....and the 1 1/2" grab bars ....

with out carb

you can see the difference in the square on size ... of grab bar and type4 ....this is kind of good ...once the runners get cut on a angle that meets up with the square end type 4 ...it will oval out on the side and be much closer fit ...

so that's where I am at the moment

 

[canuckxxxx]

Joe,

Here is a picture of my intake port, it is slightly less than 2" across at the narrowest part. I suggest that you measure 2" across the flange on your grab rail to see how much of the flat part of the flange will be resting against the intake port.

If there isn't enough flat part for a good seal then you might be able to make a spacer out of...say... 1/8" steel plate that would be wider than the intake port and wide enough so the flat part of the rail flange could rest on it. You would then need 2 gaskets per port which wouldn't ideal but should work.

Brian

GS750 intake flange 2

• canuckxxxx
• Feb 23, 2014