I can't wait for the fancy welded manifold so I'm making one from PVC

[mcgovern61]

I always wonder what happened to wd-1 thru wd-39? Or heinz1 thru heinz56? Or 1-up thru 6-up?

:smilie_happy: Yep, I wonder too!

Keep at it Chuck! :yes:

 

[chuck c]

Here's the new design according to dkl's advice, minus the flange.

 

[dan filipi]

Clean looking design......though I was looking forward to a rework using the pvc box.

 

[chuck c]

I was too impatient to wait for a 5-way connector so I made my own. Advantage is I used a fitting 2 sizes larger for a larger surface to attach the flange. I coped it using a hole saw in the drill press, glued and clamped it over night.

Then I cut off the two parts of the X to get it down to 2" wide. SAVE THOSE RINGS! I have plans for them.

Then cut the 45s to the length I think they should be, plus a bit. I cut everything a bit long so I could sand the parts down to fit.

So far, so good.

 

[chuck c]

I happened to have some 1/4" pvc sheet to make the flange. I think that's too thin so I sandwiched two pieces. I made it very oversized so I can trim it down. It will give me a place to mount the holder for the throttle cable. As you may not have 1/4" pvc sheet laying around, some places online will sell small pieces. Failing that, get a PVC conduit junction box and chop it up for flat pieces. They are a bit less than 1/4 thick so laminate two pieces to get enough thickness. PVC cement sets quickly but does take hours to fully harden. Overnight is good. Put together sub-assemblies one day and put them all together the next.

PVC fittings are tapered so when you jam in a piece of pipe it fits tight. I'm cutting off most of that taper on the 45s and cross and now the pipe won't even start into them. The pipe must be sanded down a bit to go into them.

 

[chuck c]

I'm looking for the magic number 36mm, the offset between sides.

A couple very short pieces of tube 5/16" long to attach the cut off 45s to the cut off cross. The rings needed to be sanded to fit and that taper makes it hard for them to stay in, they tend to pop out after you walk away. Sand them down enough so that won't happen. It's ok if they are loose.

Mock up is looking good. Note the straights are a bit too long.

The runners can be tilted down to get the 7 degree angle.
Lunch break to allow cement to harden. Also, to try and make it look a bit less like parts from the plumbing section, I've sanded off all the bumps, print, mfg logos, and mold seams.

 

[chuck c]

I was having trouble getting the cut-off 45 to go into the cut-off cross. It hit me that the section of tube was a bit longer than the recess in the cross. So remember, that ring can't stick out farther than the recess is deep.

 

[chuck c]

And that, ladies and gentlemen, is a manifold.

All the straights are about 1/4" long to allow trimming to fit. The runners are not glued to the cross. I'll put the intake horns on the engine to trim everything to size. When I get that right, I apply the cement and let the horns hold everything in place. Then I'll get to making the flange and throttle cable holder. When that's good it gets a wipedown with acetone and acrylic paint which sticks to pvc well.

Remember those rings I didn't throw away? I split them and put them in between the cross and 45s to fill the gap. Looking at it now I might do the same on the long straights to make the gap by the horns equal. I'll fill and smooth all the seams before paint. Hopefully it won't look too much like plumbing parts when I'm done.

 

[dkl]

Look'n Very Good......

 

[Omega Man]

So cool. These scc are as varied as the membership anymore. It is so interesting to see all the different builds... It makes the all the controversy from a few months ago look comical.

 

[dan filipi]

Omega Man » Sun Sep 21, 2014 12:28 pm[/url]":31vgmis4]
So cool. These scc are as varied as the membership anymore. It is so interesting to see all the different builds... It makes the all the controversy from a few months ago look comical.

++1!

 

[Ansimp]

I can't wait to see your version 4 :smilie_happy:

 

[chuck c]

Ansimp » Sun Sep 21, 2014 5:33 pm[/url]":30vlymd9]
I can't wait to see your version 4 :smilie_happy:

You so funny. :cheeky: At least this one has a good chance of being tested. It's closer than any of the others got!

 

[Ansimp]

chuck c » Mon Sep 22, 2014 8:11 am[/url]":23haaupu]

Ansimp » Sun Sep 21, 2014 5:33 pm[/url]":23haaupu]
I can't wait to see your version 4 :smilie_happy:

You so funny. :cheeky: At least this one has a good chance of being tested. It's closer than any of the others got!

Nothing like a bit of " Skippy" humour. :good:

 

[joedrum]

nice ....that didnt take long .... the dkl system is nice...and versions are running.....so i see yours working

 

[chuck c]

I glued it down. Here it is in place with carb and cleaner.

Tomorrow will be flange-tastic!

 

[chuck c]

The joints where I cut the cross and 45 are weak because the tube only goes in about 1/8". The full weight of the carb and air cleaner are on it. I will a put piece of the 1/4" sheet under the cross to reinforce it and the 4 tubes. I'll also see if it makes sense to put a post under the cross to rest on the engine so the runner tubes aren't doing all the work of keeping it up. I think I will also put a heat shield between it and the engine.

Wow, look at all that room in there once you get those carbs out of the way. There must be some way to make use of that space. Tools? Air compressor?

 

[slabghost]

May I suggest that you use the largest circumference of pipe you can as a support post. I strongly doubt the motor will ever get warm enough to deform CPVC if you use that and no buffer between it and the motor it might help keep the fuel charge warmer.

 

[Ansimp]

slabghost » Mon Sep 22, 2014 10:53 am[/url]":aycfmixt]
May I suggest that you use the largest circumference of pipe you can as a support post. I strongly doubt the motor will ever get warm enough to deform CPVC if you use that and no buffer between it and the motor it might help keep the fuel charge warmer.

+1 :good:

 

[chuck c]

slabghost » Sun Sep 21, 2014 8:53 pm[/url]":i2hsykdn]
May I suggest that you use the largest circumference of pipe you can as a support post. I strongly doubt the motor will ever get warm enough to deform CPVC if you use that and no buffer between it and the motor it might help keep the fuel charge warmer.

I don't understand. Why should I use a pipe with a large circumference?