I can't wait for the fancy welded manifold so I'm making one from PVC

[chuck c]

slabghost » Mon Oct 06, 2014 10:44 pm[/url]":24swavx1]
Look for your parts in the electrical section and braze them together. A lot cheaper than copper.Or you could use exhaust pipe here is a nice build that might work for you. viewtopic.php?f=107&t=4116

I saw that one, it's really nice looking. Looks like smooth flow.
If I had a welder at home I'd try doing something like that.

 

[chuck c]

dan filipi » Mon Oct 06, 2014 11:20 pm[/url]":1o0iv0o7]
How about building that with copper then use a copper or brass plate for the flange, brazed or soldered on.

That's the idea. I don't know if aluminum will solder to copper. If it won't I'll have to make one in brass. I paid $12 I think for the flange. That means this could be made for right around $50. Not only that but I think I could do it in an hour or two.

 

[chuck c]

I've ordered the parts that Lowe's doesn't carry. They will be here by the weekend but I'll be out of town. Stay tuned!

 

[slabghost]

I don't know of any solder that will bond aluminum to other metals. There is a rod for aluminum to itself and solder for copper. Silver solder can bond SS to copper and maybe steel if it's clean enough.

 

[tom foreman]

great work. :clapping:

 

[chuck c]

I ordered a 1" pipe thread to 1" solder adapter. That gives me the option of using anything to connect the carb to the manifold by using a simple 1" nipple. That even allows me some adjustment in the carb's height. I can swap nipples of different length. It also allows a really easy swap to a different carb, just screw off the flange for the Solex and screw on a different flange. It could also make it easy to try a heater built into the flange. All without removing the manifold! Brilliant!

I should order a 1-1/4" too. That will match the carb's bore better.

I have a mental picture of going down the road with the air cleaner at about chin height. With this I could do it..... and I wouldn't need a snorkle to ford streams!

 

[dan filipi]

Clever thinking.

 

[chuck c]

dan filipi » Tue Oct 07, 2014 9:13 pm[/url]":3tj03wno]
Clever thinking.

:blush: awe shucks
That one part was about $10 but it's just too good to not use it. I'd spend a couple hours trying to do anything else. I think that raises the parts total to $60 which is still not bad especially if it goes together a well as I think it will. I've probably got $15 in PVC parts but several hours over several days waiting for glue to harden. Copper should go together in an afternoon. I also think it's worth the trouble to leak test it before putting it on.

PS I took a good look at the PCV manifold and I see no cracks. It's still pretty solid so the leaks may have been around the couplers going into the intake horns. I won't trash that one just yet.

I got some dimensions for the parts and redrew what I did last night. I might have a problem of not being able to get the 97mm spacing because the elbows are too big. I won't really know until I have them.

I just might have to buff this shiny when it's done. Shiny copper on the hammered black engine will look mighty nice.

I think when I'm ready to go on the copper one I'll start another thread.

 

[Ansimp]

You must be getting close to the cost of a type4 VW manifold and stainless grab rails soon?

 

[chuck c]

Perhaps getting there but don't they both require welding, tools, and metalworking skills that not everyone has? Part of the idea is to come up with a good DIY one that almost anyone can make, even apartment dwellers. Copper is closer to that than PVC which needed a table saw and drill press. Copper might only require a tubing cutter and a handheld torch.

I bought a couple extra parts too. Wait and see what I actually use and I'll post a parts list and total cost when done along with the plans. I'm sure it will come in under $50 total.

 

[Ansimp]

You don't require welding etc for the VW manifold and grab rails ...

 

[joedrum]

no chuck ...grab bar system is not that hard ...except for the stainless steel runners are and really hard to drill ... so i didnt i used a punch ..hammer ...and round file to flange holes where i wanted ....there is several threads of gra bars being used hooch ... canukxxx ...should look them over so your full of info ... on all systems here

 

[chuck c]

How much do that manifold and grab rails cost? The grab rails were either welded or brazed and the flanges fabbed from scratch. That looks harder than most can do. I've been looking into brazing as a method too, since you can do it with a hand torch.

 

[joedrum]

hmmm when i bought mine grab bars are 20$ apiece...takes two of them .... i think the type 4 vw manifold can be had around 60$ new ...ebay may have used one cheaper ....i also use the transition piece 2 to 1 deal on top of that it was less than 20$ ... hose for connectors was 20$ too ....stainless steal runners no intake horns ... super smooth inside of runners ... and most important leak free results for me ... with your vw carb you would have to use all pieces i mention ... there are plates that have to be made and gaskets i used plywood and some rubber ..the rubber im going to replace with leather .....

 

[tom foreman]

kool.. :builder:

 

[chuck c]

Got a box of shiny copper parts in the mail today. They will require modification to use. The center spacing of the elbows in the tee come down to 137mm. I'll need to cut them down to the 97mm spacing of the intake horns. I kinda figured on that. Fortunately it looks like there's enough metal to do it and still have enough to solder.

This is just a concept. If I ditched the stock intakes and made flanges, I can do this with standard plumbing parts in copper or pvc. What do you think? Ditching the stock intakes solves several problems like that pesky 7* angle and the runners don't have to be at right angles to the engine. I would have to have a small section of rubber hose at each intake to allow for heat expansion. What do you think?

 

[chuck c]

Another no-intakes design.

 

[dan filipi]

chuck c » Wed Oct 08, 2014 7:11 pm[/url]":2bpn9dk0]
Another no-intakes design.

The beauty of copper for me is silver solder is a joy to work with. I miss it. Strange hah.

 

[joedrum]

copper seems like it would work good for sure ...designs are many....one of these days need to learn how to draw on here... :hihihi:

 

[chuck c]

I'm making these with SolidWorks 3D drafting and design software which I use at work. If you're curious, it runs about $3800 a copy. However they give away a FREE 2D drafting package that's every bit as good as AutoCAD called DraftSight. https://www.3ds.com/products-services/dr ... /overview/ SolidWorks can import DraftSight files and turn them into 3D or you can make traditional drawings that any shop could use.