I can't wait for the fancy welded manifold so I'm making one from PVC

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More to the point I would back the choke mechanism off until you have it tuned/ jetted correctly :yes:
 
I can't put up the video. I haven't used my YTube or gmail accounts for years and I can't get into either. Anyway, I have no idea what screw to turn what way. I need some specifics. As far as I can tell everything else is right, no leaks, everything connected as it should be. It starts fairly easily but needs the throttle open a good bit to stay running and stalls if i let it come down below 2500. It seems to be getting hotter than it should. What should I do next?
 
I'd try closing the choke plate and see if it will idle down better.
This could tell me if it's not getting enough gas maybe pointing to not getting enough gas from the idle circuit.
 
sheesh had a whole page of things type out to do...must of missed the submit button ..... dan said one for sure about choke plate ...it could also indicate leaking air past carb ..another thing intake horns should be a bit cool and all the same ...if one is warmer than others it also means the intake runner is leaking in air past the carb mount ...as it is the gas that cools the charge ....but dont worry ....many quit here ...truth is if it run at 3000 and above it will run at lower rpm if jetted right and or modded right ...never under estimate leaks in your set up .. most do i did also ....
 
34-3 VW Carb.........It will work stock no changes needed..make SURE no leaks, needs choke hooked up, and vacuum line hooked up correctly, and other outlets capped;;;;and again do not be scared to open small adj screw more than recommended. You are wanting an idle speed between 1000 to 1050 rpm. imo on this carb for a 1100.

1.Make sure that all the hoses are in place and the gasket at the base of the carburetor is sealing properly (no vacuum leak).


2.Install the air cleaner (the carburetor expects it to be there).


3.Turn on the engine and run it until it is warm, then switch it off.


4.The first step is to set the throttle plate. Back off the Fast Idle Adjuster (also called the throttle screw) located at the top of the throttle arm. You will find the throttle arm on the left side of the carburetor, connected at the bottom to the accelerator cable, which runs forward to the accelerator pedal.


Note: Fast Idle Adjuster is a misnomer - this screw it is NOT used to adjust the idle speed. The Fast Idle Adjuster works with the choke to give a smooth idle on a cold engine. As the choke warms (in concert with the warming engine, hopefully) the butterfly valve in the throat of the carburetor opens and the Fast Idle Adjuster screw moves down the steps of the choke fast idle cam, reducing the engine idle speed. Screwing the Fast Idle Adjuster screw in more will increase the idle speed, but doing so messes up the Volume Control and Bypass Screw adjustments. This destroys the idle geometry, and the car won't run right.

5.With the choke held in the full open position (stepped cam at its lowest point), place a piece of notebook paper or a 0.003" feeler gauge between the lowest step of the choke fast idle cam the the Fast Idle Adjuster screw.


6.Slowly turn the screw in until you feel drag on the paper or the feeler gauge. Then remove the paper or feeler gauge and turn the screw in preciselly 1/2 turn - no more! This sets the throttle butterfly open the required 0.004", so you can use the Bypass Screw (read on) to set the idle speed correctly. From this point on, leave the Fast Idle Adjuster screw alone.


7.Next set the volume of gas available at idle speeds. This is done using the Volume Control Screw. Please note that the Volume Control Screw controls the AIR volume, not the fuel volume. Screwing it in reduces the air and makes the fuel/air mixture richer. And of course turning the Volume Control Screw out increases the concentration of air and makes the mixture leaner.

Note: The Volume Control Screw is the smaller of the two adjusting screws, located on the left side of the carburetor just above the Idle Cutoff solenoid (which has a black wire from the positive side of the coil attached to it). The Volume Control Screw is NOT used to set the idle speed - that's the job of the Bypass Screw.

Note: Before setting the Volume Control Screw per the step below, turn the Bypass Screw (the larger one) out a couple of turns, just to get things started.

8. Screw the Volume Control Screw in GENTLY until it bottoms out - you don't want to open up the hole. Now unscrew it exactly 2-1/2 turns. This is the initial setting.


Note: Though you want to be careful to not screw the Volume Control Screw in too far, you also want to make sure that it is initially firmly seated before unscrewing it as specified. If you don't start with the Volume Control Screw firmly seated, you may have trouble adjusting the idle with the Bypass Screw, to the point where you may have it turned all the way in and still have the idle too high. This condition will cause stumbling on acceleration if not corrected.

9.With the Volume Control Screw out 2-1/2 turns, start the engine and let it warm up. (Make sure the automatic choke is fully open.)


10.Now to set the idle. This is done by controlling the volume of air going by the Bypass Screw. The Bypass Screw is larger than the Volume Control Screw and is located a little above and to the left of the Volume Screw.


Note: Again, the idle speed is NOT set with the Fast Idle Adjuster on the top of the throttle arm as it is on the older 28 and 30 series carburetors - though its name (Fast Idle Adjuster) would lead you to think that its used to set the idle.

11.As a starting point, turn the idle Bypass Screw whichever way (most likely out) to set the idle at 850 rpm (fast idle if you don't have a tachometer). For a semi-automatic car, use 900 rpm. (It's far better to have the idle speed too fast than too slow.)


Note: See our Tune-Up Procedure for instructions on how to attach and use a dwell-tachometer.

12.With the engine warmed up and the choke fully open, go back to the Volume Screw and adjust it slowly to obtain the fastest (smoothest running) idle speed (this is usually out - counter-clockwise). You should not turn the screw out much outside the range of 2-3 turns (1/2 turn in/out from the basic 2-1/2 turn out setting).


13.Then turn the Volume Control screw back IN (clockwise) very slowly until the engine speed drops by about 20-30 rpm (slightly leaner). If you don't have a tachometer, listen until you can just hear the engine speed start to drop, maybe as little as 1/8th turn on the Volume Screw.


14.Go back to the larger Bypass screw again to reset the idle speed to 850 - 900rpm. (Again, the fast idle is better than too slow. You want it just a little on the rich side. Too slow of an idle speed can gause the engine to overheat.)


Note: If you find it difficult or impossible to make these settings, it is possible that you could have stripped threads on any of these adjusters, a damaged hole for the tapered screw, or a damaged needle valve or O-ring.

It is also possible that you have a vacuum leak (i.e., leaking of air into the intake manifold). If there are any holes in the manifold or at any of the connection points, then air can be sucked into the manifold, causing the fuel-to-air mixture to become too lean. This can cause (among other things) adjustment of the carburetor impossible.
 
The possibility for leaks is high given the number of joints in this manifold but I don't know how to find them. I'll have to think about that. Is an air leak a case where it will run fast because it is pulling enough fuel to overcome the leaking air but when it's slower the air leak is too great?
 
get it running and use a propane torch, not lit, and aim it at all joints, and manifold ell connections, it will run different when it sucks the propane.........
 
yes it can be chuck ...but it can be other things too that are more carb related ..its just good move to elliminate leaks first as cause...if leaking there no chance at carb to get right
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=132393#p132393:245h1ur7 said:
dkl » Sun Sep 28, 2014 11:15 am[/url]":245h1ur7]
get it running and use a propane torch, not lit, and aim it at all joints, and manifold ell connections, it will run different when it sucks the propane.........

Ah, that makes sense!
 
+1 also carby cleaner and even a spray water bottle on fine mist ( provided you have good plug leads etc)
 
The trouble with starting fluid or other sprays is it's such a confined area it's hard to pinpoint a spot and not get it other places too. Not only that but I went to some trouble to paint the engine and I'd rather not ruin it. I think in this case the propane is the way to go because it won't damage the paint and I can control where it goes much more precisely. Now I just have to find the darned thing...

I did pull out and check the fuel cut-off solenoid just to be sure it was operating. The left cylinders smoked a lot when I first ran it but that has burned out and it's perfectly clean now. I'm soooo close......... I want to ride this beast before it snows!
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=132593#p132593:1d3s91d2 said:
dan filipi » Tue Sep 30, 2014 9:31 pm[/url]":1d3s91d2]
Starting fluid with a nozzle is the trick here.
Just a very small sprits at each joint is enough to change rpm at the smallest vacuum leak.

hmmm ok, that could work. I still don't want to damage my paint. I'll do a leak check asap.
 
I have had flame ups using wd40 and carb spray. Probably leaking plug caps started it. Luckily I am a big blow bag and was able to "huff and puff" them out. Scary.
 
yes a spray can under pressure ...tube equip never seem right thing to ... it be better to have a squeeze bottle and hose to do this so it could be well control and not spray everywhere .....
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=132775#p132775:3q1jvy5l said:
Ansimp » Fri Oct 03, 2014 8:04 am[/url]":3q1jvy5l]
Water works as well guys except the opposite way, revs go down not up...

ooooo now that's a really good idea. Much safer.
 
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