My build (another one)

[joedrum]

this will be great build thread opcorn:

 

[slabghost]

That's a LOT of carb for a flat four. Originally I thought this would be one of these used so one side fed front cylinders ( both of them) and the other side fed rear.

 

[ianstaley]

Denver » Thu Jul 23, 2015 4:19 pm[/url]":1flkd5yx]
Looking great! :yes: :salute: Going to take out a loan on your house to pay for fuel? :smilie_happy:

Why a std rack has 4 carbs? so why should I be using more ? explain ?

 

[ianstaley]

joedrum » Thu Jul 23, 2015 4:19 pm[/url]":2h36mhd1]
this will be great build thread opcorn:

Thanks Joe appreciate that a lot. :salute:

If you go here https://ngwclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=53432 most of us are members there too, then you can see twin twin coke webers on a GL1000

and first start here

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5CNKZDRmGsA

[video]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5CNKZDRmGsA[/video]

 

[joedrum]

yes ive follow his work some .... he really good ....i think the dual webers or knock offs are neat ...there big though x 4....so dialing them in might be a task ... im glad you will be posting here also ...want to really follow your work ... ngw and i dont mix well ... so i dont go there much as quit there forum and now pics and stuff dont show up so i like it less so now ....

this will be nice project and i think the first one here with dual weber set up build ... :yahoo: opcorn:

 

[ianstaley]

Don't forget Joe, I still have the single so if the one doesn't work then I will be going the other way.

 

[ianstaley]

Crap didn't show you my wheels! what a numb nut, sorry guys forgot to add that I got my wheels back from the powder coater today too. Was expensive, £140 for the two but I think they were worth it in the end.

So the before pictures...

First the rear..

Now the front

And the rear

 

[slabghost]

Wow! What a transformation!

 

[dan filipi]

Very nice!

 

[ianstaley]

Thanks guy's but I didn't do the work, so I can't take the praise for it.

 

[Denver]

Supplied the cash, & knew what you wanted, big problem solved, always someone around to do nice work. But very hard to find, sometimes, thats why do my own work. Problem with that is nobody else to blame for any mistakes. :hihihi: About amount of fuel would increase greatly with my hand on throttle, with two, two barrel mixers, properly tuned should be awesome! :salute:

 

[slabghost]

ianstaley » Thu Jul 23, 2015 4:22 pm[/url]":1p9irqns]
Thanks guy's but I didn't do the work, so I can't take the praise for it.

You took the chance on them and chose the shop. They wouldn't even be useable if not for you. :good:

 

[mcgovern61]

Either way, the wheels look great!! :good: :yes:

 

[ianstaley]

Thanks all for the comments now to get the new bearings fitted, then get them wrapped in bubble wrap until the time they are needed. Still got to paint the dif case. And last night I screwed my air compressor, so got to get a new one.

 

[ianstaley]

So I think I said my air compressor broke again, there is a 1/4 or 6mm pipe that runs from the pressure switch to the tank, it doesn't fill the tank but it monitors the pre-set pressure cut off. So I just happened to have a short piece of brake pipe (copper), and I have a flaring tool so made one up. Problem it the original pipe is aluminium and copper coloured so any stress just breaks the pipe. SO instead of costing me another 2 - 300 pounds for a new compressor it cost me 1/2hour of work and a piece of left over copper 1/4" brake pipe. Now I can get on with the polishing. :yahoo:

 

[Denver]

Necessity really is the mother of invention!!! :hihihi: Good work :good:

 

[pidjones]

And, the copper will work-harden under the vibration of the compressor, become brittle and break, too. Copper is bad about that. I suggest you keep an eye out for a stainless replacement. My compressor shattered the copper tube from pump to tank, their replacement is soft aluminum, and I have an eye out for stainless to replace it when the aluminum inevitably fails.

 

[ianstaley]

yes too true it will, thought about making one out of engineered plastic but it is sealing it at the end. Anyway done this once so all I need is three meters of brake tube and it's good till it dies or I do. :beg: :Big Grin:

 

[ianstaley]

So I have another question regarding the engine. So I have roved the timing belts (I have new ones), spark plugs are in and the valves in the cylinder heads are all closed, and I can turn the central pulley by hand? I know what your going to say about this but the heads are coming off so I will be changing out the gaskets, so going to have to re time it anyway, but surly you shouldn't be able to turn the motor by hand? so what I am thinking right now, is okay take out the spark plugs, fit my new electric starter, the old one is fubarbd, and get a tester and see what the compression is.

It is quite possible that due to sitting all this time that the rings are no longer seating properly. The only real way to find out is a first a test then make a decision thereafter.
Answers, advice or any other comments please. :thanks:

 

[slabghost]

Chances are very good the rings are at least partly stuck from sitting. Most are. Compression at this point is irrelevant. Even unequal readings don't mean much at this point. I'd go on with the build and worry about checking compression after I put at least 200 miles on it. If I ever bother checking that is.