My build (another one)

[joedrum]

hmmmmm ...i see it different ...take the heads off ... cost nothing ... clean everything you can in lower end with the access you have.....you should be able to see how good the motor is all cleaned up and move on ....

 

[ianstaley]

This engine is very dirty so I need to clean it. So I am a long way off riding her anyway. So I went over to the lock up and took off the rocker covers as I think they are better cosmetically than the ones I am try to polish before chroming. They better the finish before chroming the better the finish after chroming. I want her to look like a show bike. So as I have a full gasket set in house I can and could use it.
So Vincent I understand when you say rider her first, but I am sort of convinced that as she is out now, might as well bite the bullet and get her open. Any way a couple of pics to see the state of her, I am also considering chroming the valve timing wheels. Painting at the least. Ian

 

[slabghost]

If you want a show bike by all means tear it down and paint and polish everything. If you can source new rings it wouldn't hurt to have new but I doubt you need them. Valve seals and guides may be needed or at least desired. Just saying that compression isn't all that important at this point. Mainly because it's impossible to get an accurate read.

 

[ianstaley]

Thats true too, I have new seals for the valve guides, I bought them last year, so the will be going on any way too. I got to the damn thing cleaned first. That is going to take a bit of thought. I was going to take my air comp, to the garage, I can then use my portable blaster. just worried about getting media all in the engine. you know what it is like if it can get in it will.

So some serious thought needed. I was thinking soda but that is just as bad.

 

[slabghost]

Use tin tape under duct tape to cover the holes that are there and any surfaces that need to be protected then use whatever media you like. Blow it all off with compressed air after. If you are disassembling it anyway just don't move anything until you get it apart and clean any media dust out.

 

[joedrum]

fixed ... :yahoo: :BigGrin:

 

[ianstaley]

Great idea Vincent, it is raining here and I still haven't taken the dog out, a pair of Randaks manifolds are on the way, putting the carbs into my attic space make a bit of room in my workshop, there is crap everywhere and sometimes I cant find stuff. So today is clean up day.

Ian

 

[ianstaley]

So guys I am about to rebuild the wheel bearings in the refurbished wheels. Between the two bearings there is a spacer, This part is Not Available. and to cap it off I have seen two differing types of spacer. Does any have the length of the spacer please, it is show in my Haynes, but it appears different in the manual to what you can find online, but I can't find the length anywhere.
Ian :nea:

 

[slabghost]

Length can probably be determined by putting in one bearing and then measuring through the wheel from the bearing to the ledge the second bearing seats on. If that doesn't work then we need to wait for someone with the comstar wheels to chime in.

 

[joedrum]

are we talking spacer in final drive rear or front wheel ...im not clear

 

[ianstaley]

Front wheel Joe

 

[joedrum]

ive never replaced those before ... never had a bad one ...

 

[ianstaley]

The main problem with OEM fitted bearings is they would remain good for a long time, most wheel swaps the bearings go with the wheel. But as my wheels have been subjected to long term sitting in one position they may I do stress here may get a flat on one side of the ball and or race.

Most of the manuals say don't reuse bearings that have been removed for this reason, the second though is in my case the reason for the removal and replacement. 1) they have been shot or beed or whatever Blasted. And 2) high heat in the powder coating process could have damaged the seals maybe not visibly, but structurally by weakening the seal, for the cost of a pair it isn't worth the risk of bearing failure.

I have a couple of tubes here that could have quite easily have come out when I took out the bearings. So I think I will do what Vincent suggested fit one then measure up to the flange in the wheel, has to be one or the other.

Ian :fiddle:

 

[slabghost]

One should fit both in length and on the axle.

 

[ianstaley]

So today I got the new front wheel bearings fitted, just couldn't find the spacer that goes inside the hub. Took the wheel to my friend who fixes my car and also rides a bike. I think at first he didn't believe I had a Wing, no where to be seen at my house. But since he has seen the frame he has become a great help. So talking to him I realised that I didn't take the bearings out before the Powder coating. So off I went to the coaters, great he had the parts neatly in a box, he just forgot to give them to me and I didn't ask. 20 minutes later the front bearings are in.

So now I need to get on with painting the final drive dif casing and build up the rear brake and final drive tube. Then I can start on the frame build. So each day a bit more..

arty:

 

[Denver]

Thats what gets things done, one thing at a time. :builder: Make a note on receipt of what, when, & mileage, for future reference, then forget all about it. :yes:

 

[slabghost]

Glad the wheel is coming together. Now that I know you are going for show quality I'm doubly interested in your build. I don't have the time or patience for such a build really.

 

[ianstaley]

So I got a parcel care of Dan (comes to the rescue yet again), my new Randakk's 40 IDF Webber Manifolds. Nicely made in steel, so I saw on their site that there were plans for the linkage but nope nothing to see. Lots of Priority Mail Bags about 5, so I fired off a quick message EVEN though they are on vacation, I thought when they get back Time Enough. Nope almost within the hour came an E-Mail look in the bottom of the box!

What a total idiot! There in the bottom of the box fitting very snugly (I nearly threw out the box) the bag another Priority Mail bag a thick wad of instructions. Must be 40 pages thick. I have had vehicle owners manuals thinner than that! They are SO complete, even down to hand made drawings with dimensions for a rain hat fixing holes.

So first opinions, Randakk is the tops for me, the manifolds look and feel great, solidly made, nice finish to the steel, I see nothing but good engineering and the finish of the welds, I wish I could weld a 1/5 so good. On a scale of 1 - 10 I give it a 15. They even sent Vitron seals for the manifold to head seals. Two stickers, a key ring and a what looks like a Cola or a Coffee cup holder insulator. And all for a great price. If you are going down this route you shouldn't be disappointed in what you get for the money. Just one thing I didn't do at the time was order the small rubber seal in the rear calliper, what a numpty (Scottish for dumb ass). I have three sets here so really need 3 of them.

So back to the manifolds, so I am thinking first chrome them, then have them Gold Plated over that, maybe they would do just the GP I don't know. Any thoughts on the finish? :mrgreen:

Take a look. Ian

Picture Provided by Dan. Thanks.

 

[dan filipi]

Yes those manifolds ARE top notch made, beautiful welds and stout material to hold up.
I was impressed too.

 

[ianstaley]

Going to look nice chromed..