Rebuild '82 Standard Wire Harness and Fuse Box

[Ansimp]

Stop blowing your own horn Gerry!! :smilie_happy:

 

[mcgovern61]

Ansimp » Sun May 07, 2017 9:35 pm[/url]":236gf5wo]
Stop blowing your own horn Gerry!! :smilie_happy:

:cheeky: :smilie_happy:

 

[mcgovern61]

mcgovern61 » Wed Dec 21, 2016 2:51 pm[/url]":5rlnvd7c]
I am thinking of putting the relay trigger on a normally open oil pressure switch. That way, when the engine is off, the light goes off. We use these switches in marine all the time to turn systems on and off.

Looks like I may not have to add a new pressure switch after all! The current low oil light is operated by a pressure switch that opens the circuit (turning the light off). When the engine is off, the light comes on since there is less than 2 lbs of oil pressure. When the light is on, it is a 12 VDC circuit.

The 1200 fuse/relay panel has 5 normally open relays and 2 normally closed relays. The normally closed relays were used for the SEi cornering lights. When the trigger has power, the circuit opens and the cornering lights go off (and stay off). When the turn signal would trigger, it would open the trigger on the relay which closed the relay allowing the cornering lights to come on only while the turn signal was active in that direction.

I am going to take this relay and wire the trigger to the oil sender circuit. Bike is in key on position, oil light comes on, headlight is triggered off. Start the bike, oil pressure comes up, light goes off, relay closes and the headlight comes on. The only extra wiring will be to tap the oil light circuit! :Egyptian:

 

[mcgovern61]

Finally worked through the schematic and determined which wire goes where, which wire comes out and how to connect the wires to the system. As much as I liked the waterproof Deutsch connectors, they are just too darned expensive when you add in that you need to buy their crimping tool plus I still needed more of the OEM connectors. I went through and added the cost and Vintage Connections wins the lottery! :hihihi:

I ordered their crimping tool plus the connector extractor tools. I figured out how I want to connect the harness and ordered the appropriate connectors. Today the first set plus the tools came in the mail! :yahoo:

The crimping tool is not a cheap piece! It is a real nice tool for sure!

It comes with a "practice" package of spades. That was a real nice touch. After following the instructions and taking a few "practice shots" I figured out the tool and the method pretty quick.

Not bad huh? Here is my first "real" crimp for the project. I have taken the lead wire from the fuse for the headlight and ran the lead down to the load side on Relay 6. The same black/red wire is in the harness and runs to the headlight.

After crimping, I am also running solder in there too just like the original connections for the 1200 fuse box.

 

[mcgovern61]

Here is the wire rat nest I am starting with:

Once I relocated the headlight wire from fuse #3 to load on Relay #6, I pulled all of the separate ground wires and relay grounds and made up a daisy chain ground wire that goes from relay to relay on the trigger side. Since these ground wires are only for the relay triggers, I re-used the 14 gauge wire that was already in the panel:

Wires are separated and labeled. I grouped them per common function and routed them out the two pre-set holes in the side of the panel. Next, replace the bottom cover and check fitment on the bike.

So far so good! The balance of the connectors should be in either tomorrow or Monday. I will make up the new connectors and wrap the wires accordingly. The next step will be creating small connecting harnesses that will go to the buss bars and the bike's harness. If I have done this right, the fuse/relay panel will easily be able to be pulled, disconnected and moved out of the way to service the air filter or pull the carbs.

BTW, disregard the terminal connectors you see in the pictures on some of the wire ends. They were only temporary for testing. All of the wires will be snipped depending on which harness they run too. There will be four harnesses total. With the different lengths and various connectors, it will be real easy to match them up.

 

[Ansimp]

I prefer using the fm style plugs that you are using Gerry. With soldering and some dialectic gel/ white grease they will give good service for many years. The deutsch connectors are good but in my opinion take too much time to install and usually have a lower current rating. I also prefer a self draining connector/light to a fully sealed one...

 

[backlander]

Nice work Gerry, that's a great crimper that makes great connections. I have used mine extensively.

 

[mcgovern61]

Here is a pic to get a ballpark idea of how this will work. Of course the main issue was to upgrade the glass fuse box to modern automotive fuses, add relays to take the heavy loads and shift them a bit and lastly take a load off the ignition/key switch and redistribute the load.

I have split the load so that the black 14 gauge wire coming from the key will go to buss #1 and take Fuse #1, 2, 3.
*Fuse #6 will get power from the ignition switch Green/Black (ACC wire)
*Fuse #7 will get power from the ignition switch Brown which is the parking lights same as original.
*Buss #1 will also be the power for the relay trigger (Relay 3) for buss #2 which will be get power from Relay 3 and a new 14 gauge wire coming from the battery (and 30 amp inline fuse).
*Buss #2 will power Fuse #4, 5, 8, 9, 10, 11.

The headlight will still be powered from the key, but by adding it to the normally closed Relay #5, it will only be powered if the engine is running (added an oil pressure switch). This will take the load off the battery when you first turn the key to ON.

The ignition coils will have power from the new lead for Buss #2. The fan will also be on Buss #2, but it now has a fuse whereas the fan otherwise is only fused from the main 30 amp fuse at the battery. I will be changing the fuses in the box to more 5 Amp fuses as required and pulling some of the 15 Amp fuses.

 

[Denver]

Nice job! :good:

 

[mcgovern61]

Phase one is complete. The fuse/relay panel is wired and connectors completed! :yahoo:

There are 4 connectors total. Two of them are both 8 wire connectors. To prevent ever connecting them incorrectly, I reversed the connectors to be opposites. The 6 wire connector takes all of the original 6 wires from the harness and will reconnect right at the harness. The 4 wire connector has the new power input from the battery and the new ground.

Initial check for fitment on the bike:

Final location and direction the harnesses will be laid in to connect the rest of the bike yet clear the faux and actual gas cap:

It has come a long way from this:

 

[slabghost]

I bet you're a wiz at sorting spaghetti!

 

[backlander]

Top shelf work Gerry. I am totally in awe. :good: :yes: That's one clean build and upgrade.

 

[mcgovern61]

I bet you're a wiz at sorting spaghetti!

I sure feel that way sometimes! :hihihi:

The spaghetti was a tough nut to crack and have the confidence it will all work (safely).

The next step is to create harness #1 which will go from one of the 8 wire connectors and wrap around the air filter to the new buss bars that will be installed where the original fuse box is. The buss bars will handle the new power source as well as the triggers for many of the relays.

I still have some wires to fix in the '82 harness as well as add some new wires. I do not have the wire on hand just yet, just the new connectors where needed.

 

[mcgovern61]

backlander » Mon May 15, 2017 8:30 pm[/url]":13ji7dcx]
Top shelf work Gerry. I am totally in awe. :good: :yes: That's one clean build and upgrade.

Thanks Mike! :yes:

 

[dan filipi]

Looks great Gerry. Very clean work.

 

[Rednaxs60]

Great looking job. Honda sure puts a lot of wiring in a small space. Connectors are great - did you get them from vintage connections?

Looking forward to more pictures of the new bus and relay setup.

Cheers

 

[Rednaxs60]

mcgovern61 » July 22nd, 2016, 5:35 am[/url]":m9kn3pcv]
Another surprising find (at least to me), there are only two grounds in the entire wiring system. The main ground from the battery to the frame and then ONLY ONE 16 gauge green wire with an eyelet that attaches at the frame by the coils. That is it! :shock:

All negative pathways lead to the one ground wire connected at the coils. And that wire is spliced about 4 times through out the wire harness. I was pretty shocked! :heat:

Found this to be the same on my '85 LTD. With riding season upon us, intend to put work on hold and ride. Still have small projects I want to do and the ground issue is one of them. Installed a ground bus under the seat and want all grounds to be there.

Cheers

 

[Rednaxs60]

Ansimp » August 2nd, 2016, 6:44 pm[/url]":2m0siyn2]
I would love to download the complete Honda 1200 manual if that is possible Dan :thanks:

I have the 1200 manuals in PDF format - Chiltons/Haynes as well if anyone is interested plus a lot of ancillary info relating to 1200s. I have a manual for the 1100 as well. PM me if you would like.

Cheers

 

[mcgovern61]

Rednaxs60 » Mon May 15, 2017 8:42 pm[/url]":y8odgpd0]
Great looking job. Honda sure puts a lot of wiring in a small space. Connectors are great - did you get them from vintage connections?

Looking forward to more pictures of the new bus and relay setup.

Cheers

Yes, those connectors are from Vintage Connections as well as the tools needed to build the connectors. Top notch stuff and easy to use.

 

[Rednaxs60]

Looked like the connectors from Vintage Connections. Thanks, great looking installation.

Just read your thread again. I have added three relays to my '85 LTD and have a separate accessory fuse block. Using the LTD/SEi fuse block as an upgrade has given me some ideas for streamlining my additional wiring and possibly upgrading/changing the original wiring, and possible improvement to the load distribution as well.

Cheers