shock treatment

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[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=155956#p155956:20coyavi said:
Ansimp » 8 minutes ago[/url]":20coyavi]
I Think the video is great Dan but it only shows you testing 2 phases.
I'm not going to argue with you.
The test is complete as shown.
 
There is no argument phase 1 test between .14 and 1.02 on the video and phase 2 test between 1.02-1.55. The other test was between a winding and ground.
I only highlighted this so people that may not be sure of what they are doing get the full picture when trying to test all three phases of a three phase alternator stator. As you can see by Slabs response he has viewed the testing of 3 wires the same as checking the 3 phases. :yes:
 
Test has me curious now what the AC voltage on the stator wires is while it's connected to the regulator.
Not connected volts is fine for no load but I think it might help others knowing what it is while under a full load.
 
Amp probe hooked up running should give that. Although it probably varies with load. Less if battery is fully charged.
 
The stator wire to ground test while running does not give any real value as shown once you select the DC scale. You must have a phase circuit (2 wires) to be able to express any current and once it is rectified you would have a DC value. I am pretty sure if you test a phase using the DC scale you will get an voltage output of a greatly reduced value, I just can't remember what. To check current on a phase wire you could have a ampmeter inserted through one phase and run with the rr connected. A Mofset rr wouldn't give you full output unless it was required. You could also use maths 1/3 of the total output per phase wire ( 20 amps close enough to just under 7 for my calculator)
Just realised you wanted to test voltage not current Dan on a phase :whistling: :doh:
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=156003#p156003:5oru40ee said:
dan filipi » Fri Aug 14, 2015 8:21 am[/url]":5oru40ee]
I'd appreciate anyone willing to check the connected voltage from their stator, since that voltage would seem to be more accurate than the no load voltage.
I'll be home late tonight. Are you talking about connected voltage at the RR?

I also have a digital voltmeter on my system.
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=156019#p156019:1rg4817s said:
mcgovern61 » 1 minute ago[/url]":1rg4817s]
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=156003#p156003:1rg4817s said:
dan filipi » Fri Aug 14, 2015 8:21 am[/url]":1rg4817s]
I'd appreciate anyone willing to check the connected voltage from their stator, since that voltage would seem to be more accurate than the no load voltage.
I'll be home late tonight. Are you talking about connected voltage at the RR?

I also have a digital voltmeter on my system.
Connected AC voltage on the 3 yellows while the 3 yellows are connected and idling, then again at 3000 rpm.
 
I will try to get results by Sat. :yes:

PLUS, since I installed a new three wire plug last year, it will be easy to run the probe right into the plug!

image.php
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=156047#p156047:3icc9x73 said:
joedrum » Sat Aug 15, 2015 7:44 am[/url]":3icc9x73]
image.php

i have this stator and its checking out good so far ...not very pretty is it .... it needs new leads on it ...so thiis option is on the table to consider .... :fishin:
Unfortunately Joe you are using 30 year old replacement components with 30 year old varnish etc. if you want to keep doing these swaps remember that you are not improving in anyway on that old technology and will probably see future failures. I appreciate that budget constraints may cause you to follow this well worn path unfortunately I believe you will be doing this job again in the future.
Look how nice the rewound Buell stator looks especially with the blue powder coated insulation that eliminates shorts to ground through the stator core :good:
 
gee ...thats not very inspiring ....if i was going to spend money it would not be in the backcover of the motor in a motor out deal ....if money gets spent it will be on a outside charging system of moderin tech ..that will be up to the same level of user friendly access ...this stator crap on a oldwing is like there epa carbs you cant get at to adjust ... most bikes stators are no big deal very easy to get too ...on a road bike made for going cross country like hooch is ...dosnt need this kind of discount to happen ... if i do go this way with old stator ,,it is cause i can only go this way and relise it might not be the best thing ...
 

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