Single Carb Conversion 2 Barrel Progressive Holley,Weber 740 carb

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Concerning my earlier post

For those who want to know what happened,

The "Click" during startup and No start was a dirty Ignition switch contacts.

Dan our 83' GL11's have a one year product Ignition switch, 84'GL12 maybe similar? 83' is short 84' i think may be longer. both I believe are 6 contact connecter

It is Not recommended to take this year 1983' apart, for cleaning, it has plastic tabs that can break, and relies on spring pressure to make everything work, when a tab is broken spring pressure is lost.

JB weld may work, I have used it for a quite a few instances but would rather avoid breaking a major part that is no longer available, especially a single year product part.

What I did was spray Ignition switch with Brake spray in the key hole end, then move key back and fourth to each position to clean the inside of switch, contacts.

Then I sprayed down by the connector end there is a small hole spray that too, then more turning of key through the contacts, to clean and remove any corrosion on the contacts.

Repeat these steps several times.

Maybe turned key back and fourth 100 or more times, hooked it back up, starts up first start, every time.

I started it more than 20 times, start up first push of the starter, no problem at all.

I sprayed a little dry lube, in both ends, and on the fork lock.

No more, Just a "Click" and No fire.
 
Dan

In my Thread,

I mention that I opened up the Carb body's base Mounting holes to match the manifold.

This can be done with either a round file or a Dremel tool.

I used a Dremel tool, there is plenty of meat and will not hurt or weaken the mounting at all.

As you are only opening about 1/8"-3/16" to the out side of all 4 holes on the carb.

The gasket i used was for a 32/36DGV

What you did works too.

At 366 posts there is a lot of detail in this thread but finding it may be a time consuming deal.

Bob said it took him over 2 hours to plow through it all

It's only 25 pages
 
Dan,

I Noticed form the pics of your VW Manifold Mod, you dont have the plug in the carb. where the idle solenoid was that will be a nasty vacuum leak

If nothing else remove you plunger from the solenoid and screw that solenoid back into the carb at least it wont leak, just remove or cut off the plunger.

you also need to cap those two vacuum fittings as you are using the C5 ignition and will not need the right one for vacuum advance as I have done
 
Damn, stuck needing 4- 5/16" fine thread nuts.
Everything else is ready to fire.

image.php
 
NICE!! Great Job!!

I did not hear any flat spots at all.

What were you reeving the engine to approx. rpms?

Sounds good.

Simple Elegance.

Man that sure looks easy to work on

I wish i could figure out how to post videos, when i do it always says file to big
 
Single carb 4cyl. is it a Goldie-rue

or is it a Subie-wing

[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=96651#p96651:34ug7rw6 said:
mcgovern61 » Wed Sep 18, 2013 6:21 pm[/url]":34ug7rw6]
You might laugh at this, but that sounds just like my old '86 Suburu!
Click to expand...
 
:clapping: :clapping: :clapping: :clapping: :music: :music: :music: :music: :rocks: :rocks: :party: :party: :party: :Egyptian: :Egyptian: :yahoo: :yahoo: :yahoo: :yahoo:


:moped:
 
Looking forward to a video west!

We can't allow video uploads unless they are a very small file and most videos are large files.
Best is to upload your videos to YouTube then link to them in your thread.

In my next post I'll talk more about my first experiences running a single.
So far I like it a lot!
 
Hopefully we will get some riding reviews soon, all this shed work is making me thirsty :salute:
 
Dan,

I am really glad it is running and that, you like it so far.

Are you going to leave your Gas tank shut off valve in the "on position", from now on?

This is a confirmation, that at least statically that carb works on your bike too.

It sounded like, in the video, you were only revving it in the primary throttle bore, it that correct?

I cant wait for a your impressions of start up, a ride report, and a plug picture review, after you have had it running for a while, since your jet sizes, were different from mine.

This is getting good

We have Fire.

We have success.

leave That gas tank Valve left to on, there wont be any mess.

Hey I just rhymed
 
My video explains everything where I'm at right now.

This is first cold start at 65 degrees in the garage.....then a minor adjustment to the idle jet.

The fact that there is not even the slightest hint of a spit or cough or pops out the exhaust make this mod all the more worth it to me.

Make sure to watch the video all the way to end because I explain some differences from the first start up.

[video]https://youtu.be/UitnhsFJbzo[/video]
 
Quick tip for setting the idle mixture....Use a vacuum gauge, plugged in to manifold(full) vacuum. You should have a nipple, or some fitting on the carb that runs below the throttle blade...this is the full, or manifold vacuum source. Adjust the mixture screw for the highest vacuum reading you can get, then adjust the idle speed to where it should be. Then adjust the mixture again to the highest vacuum...repeat this sequence until it is the best it can get, vacuum-wise. Unless you have an exhaust analyzer, this is the best way to set a proper idle fuel mixture.... :yes: :good:
 
Good tip Joel.

I have a rush service call so no more time to play today but I did have a chance to hook up my sync gauges just for grins to see what it shows.

All 4 are close to even, I think within 2" at idle but mostly what I was pleased to see is while increasing rpm the gauges are very close to even. Never saw that with the stock rack unless I synced the carbs at high rpm but idle would be way off. Usually close to 4" off.

I'll post a more in depth video later.
 

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