Stator removal is easiest with engine removed. There have been forum threads mentioning that it can be done in situ by canting the engine on an angle so you work from the left side. If you have to go this far might as well take out the engine. You appear to have a good work space. The manual and others will mention draining the engine oil. Good idea; however, not all the oil comes out. There is a small amount remaining in the rear engine case that will drain out when you remove this cover. A tin pan under the cover when you remove it will catch the oil and not make a mess - BTDT.
While you have the cover off, clean the engine compartment. The clutch slave should be removed and cleaned, it will have dirt/crud in it. Check the clutch as well. The starter clutch can be cleaned as well.
Good time to remove, clean, lube and reinstall the centre stand with the exhaust off.
New stator, think about a rectifier/regulator (RR) upgrade from the OEM shunt model to a series RR. Good short or long term investment.
If you have thoughts about the cleanliness of the rear brake MC, now is the time to rebuild it. Most interference items are out of the way.
I use Honda Bond 4 for surface to surface sealing, and on gaskets - good stuff. Honda mentions in its service manual that you do not have to use a gasket sealant on the entire rear cover gasket. Highly recommended to do so with the Honda Bond 4 or equivalent. I did what the manual said and had a small oil leak, engine out, new gasket and sealant all round - leak gone. Use the Honda Bond 4 on the engine case and cover, install gasket.
While you have the exhaust off, check the exhaust ports for old exhaust gaskets. People have a habit of not removing all the old exhaust gaskets. There could be a build up of old exhaust gaskets.
With the engine out, lets you get into the areas of the engine that are not readily accessible with the engine installed. One of these is the front water pump cover. Lots of spots for crud/dirt to accumulate.
Check the shifter oil seal. May need to be replaced.
New stator wire connector. These wires can be soldered, but not necessary. A good, high amperage waterproof connector from a marine supplier will work fine and probably outlast you and your ride. Lots on Amazon and eBay as well. Lets you disconnect the stator from the wiring harness should you need to remove the engine at a later date instead of cutting wires.
Have had my '85 GL1200 Limited Edition engine out several times and did a complete rebuild during the C-19 issue.
Good luck as you go forward. Will follow.
Cheers
. I'm not fond of working on a bike due to so much being packed into such a small space, it's difficult to get it to fit back together sometimes although the '86 I have really isn't all that bad to work on I've learned.
