Stella and her new alt. up on the table (of sorts) wish us luck

[jerryinmich57]

Well I finally got Stella off the floor so I can work without getting down on the floor (have not done that in a long time and don't want to anymore).
So tomarrow I start undressing (lower faring I mean) her to get down to work need to take camera out (I tend to forget where I took bolts out after a few days) never used to happen years ago.
I will keep you posted on how well she comes through the operation.
Jerry

It may not look good but it is solid. Would never put Stella in danger.

 

[slabghost]

looks more available. I hope you are right about the strength of the table. It does look flimsy in the picture.

 

[danf]

good for you, what ever works, safety first man..

 

[jerryinmich57]

Yes as I said the table looks a little light, But I feel confident it is 1/4 thick 2x3 angle iron and 2x12 wood with Stella on center stand and blocking directly under that.
So back on point after pulling off the lower faring I found this vacuumn cruise control module which I think has to go what do you think?
I know I will be able to live without it so no problem.
Thanks for listening, so far we are doing good.
Jerry
P.S. I hope I am not out of line with all the pictures if so someone please let me know.
I know to everyone who has done this before it is easy but that is not Jerry.
I am taking this slow so as not to take Stella to a point where she can not come back from.

 

[joedrum]

looks good the wt you got it all up for you ....vacume cruise control hmmm.....thats sounds kinda neat to have ....yes it seems to be in the way for the altinator add on ....i take it the stator is bad ....they are not as hard to change as most think ...and would probably be my choice ....unless i was going to use a lot of extra power for trailor or what.....but anyway i think doing fine ....the radiator will come out by taking the bolts out of the thermostat cover and water pump cover ...the gaskits are o rings and stay in place good and will most likely go right back on....that darn heat sheild is a pain in the butt thats right there ...i cant tell from the pic if its there ..it might not be thats good in my book ...i usealy take those off and not have them on the bike as there to much in the way for me ...with little reason for it being there....and i think most that do this use that motor mount top bolt in the alt. conversion to hold the alt. brackit....

i think your going fine and we can help on anything you run into ..i know from personal experience that its rough leaning the right moves in working on these oldwing ...slow and confident and not doing anything drastic move without posting about it ....good luck...also id consider just replacing the stator too as an option ...it requires motor removal but its realy not super hard either and sure gets you some huge experience in the oldwing either way you go .... :mrgreen:

 

[jerryinmich57]

Thanks for the reply and words of confidence Joedrum.
I bought the old girl last year after about 30 years of waiting to get a wing (rode on one and had to have one after that).
I have done the stator tests and yes it was bad the guy said he puts a new battery in every couple of years that's why it had a new battery.(yea right)
Anyway I have been back and forth about ext. alt. or stator continiously for the last 6 months or so.
The vacumn cruise control must be aftermarket I think, and I am not a long distance cruiser so I know it will not be missed.
Now I have to go back and read more about engine removal and think some more about how much I want to keep it original or not with a stator. (already bought a 1 wire alt. though maybe I can hook it up to a gas engine and have a 50 amp portable battery charger lol)
Jerry
And yes the heat shield is still in place I was wondering about removal of that.

 

[dan filipi]

We like pics so post away!!

I'd hang on to that cruise control, the vacuum type are getting expensive and hard to find.
I may even take it off your hands.

 

[jerryinmich57]

Well Stella is pretty much bottomless.
Just in time I think the timing belts have about 3/4 inch play in them.
I was wondering I have seen that when you move the radiator forward the bottom hose does not line up anymore. What if a guy made a spacer block to go between the block and the hose connector with a o-ring groove on the back then used longer bolts to move the connector out the same amount as the radiator.
Just a thought.
Jerry

 

[dan filipi]

Yes that lower hose is a problem especially when moving it enough forward for the 4" pulley.
A block is an excellent idea!

What I did was moved the entire radiator forward so I wouldn't have to modify the fan at all but this meant moving the radiator filler neck.
The lower hose I found at Kragen while browsing thru the collection on the wall.
The hose I found was much longer but it had a real tight bend in it that I needed so I cut just that section out of it.

Oh I forgot that I also soldered on a 3/4" copper fitting, 45 degree I think.

 

[joedrum]

hmmm isay that an excellent idea ..but not many have the way to do that ...but its diffintly the best thing to do if one could

 

[jerryinmich57]

hmmm isay that an excellent idea ..but not many have the way to do that ...but its diffintly the best thing to do if one could

I am kinda in the same boat as countryboy.
I am the shop forman in a small shop I program and keep track of 8 C.N.C. mills and 3 C.N.C. lathes so like countryboy I can try stuff for personal use.
So I have to try it and see if it will work. :music: :thanks:
Jerry

 

[ddrichard]

hello, i'm in the middle of a conversion right now,14volts is a nice number to see, hope all goes well with stella. it can be a little overwhelming to see the old girl in so many pieces, but just remember that you will be riding her soon... Denis

 

[jerryinmich57]

it can be a little overwhelming to see the old girl in so many pieces, but just remember that you will be riding her soon... Denis

You are right it is sad to see her like that.
I keep telling myself I can hardly wait to look down at the voltmeter and see 14 or so instead of 11.5 and turning off the radio so I can get home. (That will happen right?) :good: lol
Well anyway I got started on the pulley and I stood there for a half hour before I cut into the right timing cover to fit the pulley (really hated to do that but it is like getting a shot you know it for the best).
So I will keep up posting once in a while with a picture once in a while.
Jerry

 

[Omega Man]

What did you use to cut the cover?

~O~

 

[jerryinmich57]

I used a coping saw to cut out most of it and a half round file to finish it off.
A word of caution take it slow I cut around the bump in the right cover and it is a little lower than the center of the shaft.
So I had to file a little more around the top, I had to put the cover on and off a couple of times to try the fit but it is worth it a good file cuts quick on the alum.cover.
I am glad I had the pulley before I cut it.
I will cut the other side today then take the pulley and shorten it back to clear the covers.
I made the back a little longer once it is through the covers I can measure to see how much clearance I have.
Then I can put the groove in front for the v-belt.
Jerry

 

[dan filipi]

So Jerry, this pulley is the same as our drawing except for a V belt?

How much difference in thickness does that reduce it from a 3 groove flat belt?

 

[jerryinmich57]

I am not sure yet Dan, I made the back of it (keyway to pulley) dim. 1.200 and the pulley width is 1.000 so far I wanted to make sure I had more than enough material (easier to take more off then to put back on you know).
So once I get it through the covers I can measure how much clearance I have and cut back the 1.200 to just clear the covers and bolts and redo the keyway and .860 hub.
Then I can work the other end down to accept the v-belt, that should come down to just over .500 for the belt I think.
So I don't remember what the total length of the pulley in your drawing but I think this will end up being about 1.500 long.
I will be taking it into work on Monday and trying to finish it up and will let you know.
Jerry

 

[jerryinmich57]

Ok so I cut the left side timing cover (I would show a picture of the covers but not very proud of the cutout) the arbor I talk about in a minuite will let me see better but think the pulley is clearing all the way around hard to see around the pulley very good the arbor is Something I should have done before I cut the covers so I could see better.
In the picture that is a .312 spacer between the cover and the back of the pulley so it looks like I can take off .325 from the 1.200 length Which will make it .875 where the drawing shows .995 .875 +.120 Before I say for sure I am going to make a arbor of sorts on Monday it will be 1.200 -.325=.875 (.755 +.120) for step and keyway. Without the pulley part so I can see how good the shaft clears the covers and use a stright edge to check the clearance on the covers and bolts.
I think the 1200 uses different timing cover bolts they are flat with a 6mm hex (maybe the differance in the length).
Jerry

 

[dan filipi]

Yes 1200 uses flat hex head bolts which come to think of it there may be a possible better way to solve the 1100 bolt head clearance.

Can you measure the right cover inboard cover bolt length for me? I'd like to compare it.
A picture of that bolt too would be nice.

 

[jerryinmich57]

Dan I am sure this all should be metric but I am using my dial calipers in american. lol
overall bolt length is 2.715 point to top of head, three of the bolts are like this the outboard left bolt is longer.
point to underside of head 2.555
point to first boss (other end of thread) .785
length of boss under head .370
length of boss at end of thread (away from point).075
diameter of thread .231 (prob. 6mm thread)
dia of boss by thread .390
dia between bosses .245
dia boss under head .430
head dia 1.036
thickness of head (underside to top) .163
the edge on top of bolt is about .055 which angles up to a .700 dia. then flat to center with what I think is a 6mm hex key in it.
plus or minus a couple thousands here or there.
If you want I will take a pic angled so you can see the top of bolt better.
I see I should check the date on the camera. lol
Jerry