The Mayflower: AKA - I bought a non-running '82 GL1100

[saganaga]

Hmmm. The radio stopped working after 20 minutes.

Guess I do need to redo the other wiring.

I'll do it right this time - redo the ground back and the accessory with new 14g wire. I'll order the correct colors from eBay or the like. And figure out where the radio is getting its power - I think it isn't tapped into the accessory fuse. May have to redo that wiring as well.

 

[saganaga]

Fixed the radio - was the cheap fuse holder that I bought for the battery power. Managed to unscrew itself.

In the long run, I may wish to relocate it, or *sigh* run a separate wire from the battery back. The fuse's location is currently a PITA to get to, but I want to keep the unfused portion of the wire as short as possible for obvious reasons.

 

[saganaga]

If anyone is looking to buy a "marine" "weather-proof" radio, I would not recommend the one I bought.

A rainstorm temporarily killed it. It would turn on, but no audio. It did work after it dried out.

 

[mcgovern61]

saganaga » Tue Sep 17, 2019 10:32 pm[/url]":1ngzr697]
If anyone is looking to buy a "marine" "weather-proof" radio, I would not recommend the one I bought.

A rainstorm temporarily killed it. It would turn on, but no audio. It did work after it dried out.

There is a big difference when it is "weather proof" versus "waterproof". I see it is noted on the box that the radio was "fully marinized" which doesn't exactly mean waterproof.

My Sony Marine radio was (and still is is use) waterproof. It has played right through numerous rainstorms while riding on road trips towing my trailer.

 

[GTC@MSAC]

Hmmmmm......maybe it was just "marinated", lol!

 

[saganaga]

mcgovern61 » Yesterday, 6:04 am[/url]":280quuj6]
There is a big difference when it is "weather proof" versus "waterproof". I see it is noted on the box that the radio was "fully marinized" which doesn't exactly mean waterproof.

As a native English speaker, sometimes I wonder about my grasp of the English language.

So what does "weather proof" mean?

 

[mcgovern61]

So what does "weather proof" mean?

Weatherproof means it can withstand moisture from a minor drizzle.

Waterproof means it is completely sealed from water and can get soaked. Real marine electronics are waterproof and often float if it went overboard (like hand held VHF radios.)

 

[saganaga]

mcgovern61 » Today, 12:52 pm[/url]":1siam75m]

So what does "weather proof" mean?

Weatherproof means it can withstand moisture from a minor drizzle.

Well that's annoying.

 

[mcgovern61]

You should see what happens on a boat when someone uses a "weatherproof" radio on their boat and get hit by their first salt water wave. Usually the end of that unit.

 

[Ansimp]

mcgovern61 » Fri Sep 20, 2019 7:08 am[/url]":hl64xu69]
You should see what happens on a boat when someone uses a "weatherproof" radio on their boat and get hit by their first salt water wave. Usually the end of that unit.

:yes: :hihihi:

 

[saganaga]

saganaga » September 12th, 2019, 9:34 pm[/url]":1a2condn]
Also picked up one of these tools for about $15. Some people apparently love them - it's just T handle tool, with each end of the tool accepting a 1/4" socket. It ships with an 8mm, 10mm, and 12mm socket.

Update: I used the T tool while doing a tire change on my father-in-law's GL1500. For the price, I'd highly recommend it. As long as you have a decent socket/extension set, it isn't needed, obviously, but it is a time saver. The sockets are not deep sockets, but they are deep enough that they'd work on a lot of nuts. By putting a socket at the top of the "T", there's enough torque to break nuts. Swap the socket to the base of the "T", and you can quickly spin the fastener free.

 

[pidjones]

Looks like a good candidate to swap in a 1/4"drive to 1/4" hex bit holder with a #3 JIS bit in it for large case screws, etc. Remember to use JIS on your GoldWing, not Philips. I buy Motion Pro JIS bits on Amazon.

 

[saganaga]

pidjones » Today, 4:32 am[/url]":1kgvimw9]
Looks like a good candidate to swap in a 1/4"drive to 1/4" hex bit holder with a #3 JIS bit in it for large case screws, etc. Remember to use JIS on your GoldWing, not Philips. I buy Motion Pro JIS bits on Amazon.

I've been horrible sometimes and just filed down the tip on a Philips bit. Works in a pinch when you lose the JIS bit.

You think they'd make those bits day glo orange by default.

 

[pidjones]

saganaga » Thu Sep 26, 2019 4:29 pm[/url]":27y8e6p4]

pidjones » Today, 4:32 am[/url]":27y8e6p4]
Looks like a good candidate to swap in a 1/4"drive to 1/4" hex bit holder with a #3 JIS bit in it for large case screws, etc. Remember to use JIS on your GoldWing, not Philips. I buy Motion Pro JIS bits on Amazon.

I've been horrible sometimes and just filed down the tip on a Philips bit. Works in a pinch when you lose the JIS bit.

You think they'd make those bits day glo orange by default.

Actually, I paint mine red when I get them.

 

[saganaga]

Doing final drive lubrication, since I did not have the moly paste when I changed the tire.

Final drive flange was a little stuck. Put a c-clamp on the edge of it, a block of wood on the wheel to protect it from damage, then used a tire spoon to pry it off.

 

[saganaga]

To really screw up takes a torque wrench - was putting on the rear caliper bolt, and torquing it to 22 ft-lbs with a torque wrench. Seemed not to be reaching the torque specs. Even grabbed another torque wrench to doublecheck.

So I continued, trusting the tool instead of my gut, and the bolt broke.

Supposed to be an 8x49 bolt. I'll see if the local hardware store carries an 8x50 that can be adapted. Old bolt has already been removed with an easy out.

Otherwise, pretty productive - got to fasten down the three final drive bolts, add some grease to the zerk fitting, air up the rear shocks, double-check the oil level in the final drive, check the air pressure of the rear wheel, and I should be good to go. Maybe I'll get some riding before the rain comes tomorrow - it'll be an unseasonably warm 82F tomorrow.

 

[mcgovern61]

FYI, when working on my wing, I use the old "hand tight and then quarter turn" method for tightening any bolts. Over the years here on the forums, many of the "broken bolts" have been attributed to using torque wrenches.

My girl was taken all the way down to the frame and brought back to life and I have yet to use (or need) a torque wrench. 12 years of wrenching on the same bike with no issue.

I am not opposed to using a torque wrench! You need to use one to tighten head bolts correctly. But for the everyday nuts and bolts on these old bikes, "hand tight and then quarter turn" method will go a long way!

 

[chilidawg]

There is a much simpler way to remove the final drive flange from inside the wheel hub.

Hold the wheel out at arms length (flange side down) and drop it onto a plywood sheet.

Pops right out every time for me.

 

[Ansimp]

chilidawg » Tue Oct 01, 2019 3:10 am[/url]":z04tx5bb]
There is a much simpler way to remove the final drive flange from inside the wheel hub.

Hold the wheel out at arms length (flange side down) and drop it onto a plywood sheet.

Pops right out every time for me.

:good:

 

[saganaga]

mcgovern61 » Today, 7:07 am[/url]":lky47ryr]
FYI, when working on my wing, I use the old "hand tight and then quarter turn" method for tightening any bolts. Over the years here on the forums, many of the "broken bolts" have been attributed to using torque wrenches.

My girl was taken all the way down to the frame and brought back to life and I have yet to use (or need) a torque wrench. 12 years of wrenching on the same bike with no issue.

I am not opposed to using a torque wrench! You need to use one to tighten head bolts correctly. But for the everyday nuts and bolts on these old bikes, "hand tight and then quarter turn" method will go a long way!

I'm fond of a torque wrench for anything with large gaskets or brakes/wheels (basically if it can leak or if it can kill me), but I'm beginning to rethink it for calipers.

Still not sure what's going on with the rear brake - the caliper itself seems a little loose. Either the hardware store bolt doesn't work, or there's wear in the caliper, or the caliper is supposed to be a little loose. IDK.

Guess I should order the official bolt from Mother Honda and see if that fixes things. And maybe just rebuild the rear caliper anyways since the rubber looks to be 40 years old.