The Mayflower: AKA - I bought a non-running '82 GL1100

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saganaga

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Turns out I bought the same battery, but with a different sticker on it. Part number is ETX18L. The branding is NAPA's in house(?) brand.

My battery says it is "NAPA The Legend Premium" brand (sounds like a pro-wrestler). The manufacturer is East Penn Manufacturing (EPM). EPM also makes "Extreme Magna Power" batteries, as well as Deka batteries. I just compared my battery to the Deka Power Sports ETX18L and the Extreme Magna Power ETX18L batteries, and they appear to be the same, except for the labels attached to them.

All are 6.375" x 8.125" x 3.5625", weigh 18 lbs, provide 340 CCA, with identical cases.

EPM also makes the Harley OEM batteries.
 

saganaga

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Battery installed! It sits a little loose - I may make a rubber spacer.

Here's what was in it. Could not find a date code. Did find a price - $100, so I assume it wasn't a cheap battery

IMG_20200325_091234686.jpg
 

saganaga

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Prepped the GL1100 for spring - forks, rear shocks, and front tire had good pressure, rear was low. Radiator fluid was good. Warmed it up and did an oil change. My crush washer set had a 14x20 crush washer - but I think the oil plug probably came with a 14x22 or 14x24 crush washer - does anyone actually have the spec on this?

I found one thing off when I was checking the lights - when I turn on the left turn signals, the running lights on the right fork turn off. When I turn on the right turn signals, the reverse happens - the left fork lights turn off.

Am I missing something? Because that doesn't sound right to me. Just spent ten minutes with the good ol' wring schematic, and it looks like such behavior could be explained *if* they were using the blue/white and orange/white wires to power the fork lights.
 

saganaga

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[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=216330#p216330:1n6vxdab said:
chilidawg » 26 minutes ago[/url]":1n6vxdab]
https://www.partzilla.com/product/honda ... 8844dc1892

They don't give an OD for the oil crush washer, I bought a 6 pack of 14mm copper washers from Autozone a long while back, they always worked good for me.

If you can easily do so, care to get an outside diameter on those for me?
 

chilidawg

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I wouldn't even know where they are now, that was way back before I moved the whole rebuilding operation from the car port to the shop.

But I know they work and there was only 1 box to choose from, about $3 If I remember rightly.
 

mcgovern61

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$100 for an Extreme Magna AGM battery is about right.

As far as the turn signals go, If your wiring is connected correctly, the running light going off is done in the turn signal switch in the left handle. But I am thinking there are two wires reversed switching the left to right running lights.
 

saganaga

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According to the wiring schematic, when a turn signal is applied, one filament is turned off, and the other filament blinks. So that explains the how of it happening - each fork running light is tapped into the front marker's light wire ehich is normally on but switched off by the turn signal switch.

It could be they screwed up installing some aftermarket fork lights, which I could believe except why take the time to track down two separate wires to tap into when the Goldwing has an accessories circuit right in the fuse box?

Maybe an attempt to make the lights blink?

Or perhaps following some arcane state law that prohibits any other amber lights being lit on the same side as a blinking turn signal?

Anyways, cleaned up the new-to-me timing belt covers and used some of that Indian Head Gasket Shellac to glue the gasket on. Going to give it a day to dry completely before trying to install them.

IMG_20200327_114018807.jpg
 

saganaga

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Finally installed the timing belt covers.

On an '82 standard, reports that it can be done without pulling the radiator is true, but the right side inner bolt is the biggest PITA. Did it all with an offset 10mm 12pt wrench.

I unbolted the bottom of the radiator and pulled it out about a half inch.

I'd recommend having a lot of patience. I'm not even sure it saves much time over pulling the radiator. Also make sure to attach the valve cover gaskets thoroughly and inspect them with a flashlight before tightening everything down. I had one small bit of gasket move. I installed the left cover first, then the right. (Right and left from the rider's perspective.). Not sure that mattered.

I did have to unbolt a horn for more room, but my horn may not be in the stock location. Also had to remove the (right) non-standard engine guard and the left highway peg to get clearance to wiggle the timing belt covers out.

That job sucked. I fiddled with one bolt for forty minutes. Ugh!

Tomorrow I'll do the valve covers and polish the exhaust before taking pictures.
 

pidjones

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Ratchet-head wrenches (gear wrench, etc) are a God-send for the inner bolts on a 1000.
 

Rednaxs60

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Polishing is a PITA but once done, polished aluminum looks great. Did the valve and timing belts covers, front forks, and other parts on my '85 Limited Edition 1 1/2 years ago. Took the pictures of the timing belt covers when I first did them:
Timing Covers.jpg
Took them off two weeks ago and this is the pic - looking good after 1 1/2 years:
Timing Belt Covers.jpg
Used Flitz polishing compound then the Flitz Protectorant coating. Going to give all the parts a fresh once over before putting back on.
 

saganaga

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I was tempted to run over to Harbor Freight and look for something cheap and low profile for the bolt. But I did it the hard way.

Most of the difficulty is getting it back in to place anyways.

Here are pictures, as promised.

IMG_20200619_164429314.jpg

IMG_20200619_164410145.jpg
 

saganaga

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Btw, nice polishing job!

I also changed the fork oil again today. Left drain bolt feels like it may be stripping. I'd say it is my fault, but that crush washer was well crushed upon removal.

I'm waiting to see if the forks hold pressure. They seem like they did on a short ride.

If I have to remove it again, I'll have to think of a fix. Perhaps check the depth of the hole and use a slightly longer bolt and a rubber o-ring for a washer. Or just retap it one size up.
 

pidjones

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[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=218020#p218020:9kt4n4sb said:
saganaga » Fri Jun 19, 2020 7:47 pm[/url]":9kt4n4sb]
Btw, nice polishing job!

I also changed the fork oil again today. Left drain bolt feels like it may be stripping. I'd say it is my fault, but that crush washer was well crushed upon removal.

I'm waiting to see if the forks hold pressure. They seem like they did on a short ride.

If I have to remove it again, I'll have to think of a fix. Perhaps check the depth of the hole and use a slightly longer bolt and a rubber o-ring for a washer. Or just retap it one size up.
They do make an o-ring backed by an aluminum ring for sealing brake lines. Might be one big enough. I had to do something similar on my GL1800 when I didn't realize that the torque wrench was set 5 ft-lbs high.
 

saganaga

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Well, got the bolt out and measured the depth with my finest $2.99 Harbor Freight measuring caliper. Seems threaded 12mm in, and on the '82, there's no anti-dive, so I'm having a hard time seeing why a 12mm long bolt won't work.

I'm going to watch a video of an 82 front fork rebuild on Youtube and see if I'm missing anything.
 

saganaga

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Well that was fun.

Bought some longer stainless bolts.

Long story short, turned out that the left fork had already been helicoiled. Which failed. I managed to extract about 4mm of broken helicoil.

But it does seem a longer bolt holds. I don't know if there is still helicoil there, or if it was tapped out deeper at the factory. I'll note the right fork seems to not be damaged, and will accept a longer bolt.

So new bolts, wrapped with teflon tape, and new copper crush washers.

After a 90 minute test ride, I don't see a leak. And I don't seem to be losing pressure. I'll keep an eye on it.
 

saganaga

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On the plus side, I feel better. I am a shade tree mechanic. I don't do this full time, so I don't have a experience of someone who does. But I do think I'm decently careful.

I felt bad because I thought I stripped this. But it seems clear that someone previously was a firm believer in more ugga duggas when tightening bolts.
 
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