The plan is to turn 140,000 into 50,000

[joedrum]

Yes leave the tack drive and lower part attached and block off where the pump attaches ...my motor with the car carb and everything needed and electric pump and manual switch on it to allow me turn off pump and drain the carb dry while it’s running after a ride ...one thing I found out about weber carbs and DFT clones is they need the electric fuel shut off solenoid or they will leak after running ...till I get another one this is how I keep that from happening ...work great ...and the carb being so tall above motor the electric pump puts gas right there to the carb before I hit the starter and it fires up instantly with the machanical pump I’d have to crank it awhile before it would fire up from gas trying to go back towards the tank while sitting

 

[joedrum]

Pics

Pic of block off plate 1/2 done ..need to scribe it and cut it ...you can see my cereal box gasket :smilie_happy:

1200 84 fuel pump mounted a bit of finish work there to do also ...out come is fantastic in operation for my bike

 

[desertrefugee]

chilidawg » Sat Feb 23, 2019 11:16 am[/url]":1eoqnqii]
From where I sit, it looks like the installation of an electric fuel pump is the easy part.

It's what you do with the old mechanical pump and keeping a well lubed tachometer drive that doesn't leak, that could be problematic!

I mean, the GL1100 fuel pump is a thing of beauty, it gives the whole engine character, it's something that cannot be mistaken for anything else!

Maybe I could just blank off the ports.

CD,

You can "pretty up" the old pump housing. I did this a while back. I kept my original housing and cut up a sacrificial one to add the 1200 pump. It was a fairly interesting tale. If you just want to cut to the install specifics, skip to the 3rd page. But, here's the whole ugly:

https://classicgoldwings.com//forum/viewtopic.php?f=22&t=12155&hilit=fuel+pump

...and if you just want to see the end result:

 

[joedrum]

Wow I forgot about that ...that’s about the best I’ve seen done for sure

 

[chilidawg]

I think I'm gonna leave the fuel pump mechanical for the time being, thank you all though for your input. Desertrefugee, that thread was a fascinating read, But what with the extra starting capability of the Power Arc and having not had any problems like that yet, as well as it looks like something that can be done later, like, after the bike is built. That for sure looks like the road to go down, when I do.

 

[chilidawg]

So here's where I'm at right now.

Cleaned it up the best I could, now I'm waiting on gaskets and seals to install the cams.

HOTT might stop by tomorrow, (he lives locally.) I want to pick his brains on how? If at all, to paint the engine.

This is one of his builds.

 

[joedrum]

Yes he’s quite good builder that hott

 

[chilidawg]

I had a great visit with HOTT this week and, I wasn't expecting it but he made me an offer that I could not refuse!

He's gonna paint the motor, any color I want, for about the same money that I've spent on gaskets, O rings and oil seals so far!

Sounds easy don't it? Painting a motor, until you figure in what needs to be painted, what doesn't and what does but needs to be removed occasionally. I'm just glad that someone with some experience of doing this, is gonna do it, and not me!

I'm looking at a dark grey color, in line with the "silver/black phantom bike" that the machine has morphed into over the many years of its build.

 

[joedrum]

Lucky you one of the best in my opinion ...sure would like his talent on my bike ....and make it look as good as it runs....it be a Hott bike then

 

[mcgovern61]

That is a great deal! :good:

 

[chilidawg]

So here's where I thought I was on familiar ground! Camshafts, I've done this job at least half a dozen times chasing after more horse power or more recently just getting the C5 to run off of the left head, with as you know varying results. But never without lying on my back, some kind of time constraint or the benefit of both major manuals.

The American Honda manual tells you to use a sealant on the mating surfaces of the cams and the head, (not too much) and then torque the bolts to 15ft/lbs. Making no mention of lubricant!

The Clymer manual tells you to coat the whole cam "and the oil seals" in rebuild lubricant, then tighten the bolts to 18-21ft/lbs. Making no mention of sealant.

Since an early failure I've always used rebuild lube on the main journals and I can see where it would help on the lobes, but never on the oil seals, I always put those in dry, maybe that's where I messed up. As for the sealant, what are you sealing against? Both items are in the same oil void.

But as for that 6ft/lbs difference on the bolt torque? What do y'all think of that?

I'm probably gonna go for 18ft/lbs, from memory, hmm!?! That's what I used before.

 

[chilidawg]

Got it covered. Engine rotation is counterclockwise from the rear, clockwise from the front.

Who knew how wrong you could be, after riding one so many years?

 

[chilidawg]

Well I guess I knew it had to happen Fella's. But that don't stop it being just a little bit sad!

My beloved OGR1 is an ex-bike, it started yesterday when I pulled the fuel pump but became more obvious today while I was pulling more and more parts to get to the starter motor. Over an 18 year period she has taught me just about everything I know about GL1100's and taken me clear across Texas, New Mexico, Louisiana, Mississippi, Tennessee, Alabama and Arkansas as well as dipping our toe in North Carolina, Georgia, Oklahoma and Kansas and never broke down unless it was, at the house, or somewhere it could be fixed. But I fear, she will never be a complete motorcycle again.

Feeling like this, I'm even more intent on making this project work.

OGR1 is dead. Long live the new OGR1!!

 

[joedrum]

Huh what’s up here !!???

 

[dan filipi]

What he ^ said.

 

[chilidawg]

I don't know, what's up?

I guess I might have got a little maudlin over ripping into a bike I've spent 18 years building, but apart from that?

I don't know either.

 

[chilidawg]

The motor is ready for painting, it's gonna be Black Chrome II. It won't be black when it's done, as the final shade depends upon what it was painted on, it's kinda like a translucent darkener, but it ought to come out the dark grey that I'm after.

 

[chilidawg]

There's a change of scenery on the bench.

The motor's gone of to HOTT's place for painting, I finally decided on Acura grey, who would have thought my car would be an inspiration.

I'm gonna clean the frame up the best I can with solvent and FW1, (that stuff is awesome,) and then oil all the captive nut threads.

New head bearings arrive next week, meanwhile I need to find me a good drift to get the old ones out with.

 

[Ansimp]

Nice :good:

 

[joedrum]

This is turning into a complete redo ...something I always wanted to do but havnt been able to do yet ....