The plan is to turn 140,000 into 50,000

[pidjones]

I had a ~1ft long 1" aluminum rod that I drilled and threaded the end of and bolted on a larger, heavy washer to knock out the lower head outer race. Used it again last winter on a CB750F.

 

[chilidawg]

I eventually decided on one of these do-hicky's.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Motorcycle-Ste ... 2749.l2649

It's supposed to work up to a maximum diameter of 42mm and I don't know the size of mine, but hopefully it'll work, arrives tomorrow.

New bearings are, All Balls, 22-1020, they get here on Thursday.

 

[chilidawg]

This thing worked great, had to work with it some though, but it's malleable, it helps if you have a vice and a half-round file to work it back into shape.

Took out the bottom bearing easily, had to work with it to take out the top one, but once you've got it figured out, it works just fine. Fast, repeated blows with a steel hammer was the style that worked for me. I would recommend it.

 

[joedrum]

Nice work

 

[chilidawg]

I think the frame is finished.

I used this paint to conceal/repair any rust areas, of which there where quite a few, it is supposed to be for exactly that purpose and eventually I ended up only using half of it, good thing really because once you open it, it starts to harden, real quick. It took an act of congress just to get the cap back off the second day I wanted to use it and an unused chopstick, (who ain't got those,) to break though the skin on the surface. This little 1/4lb can was $15 from Amazon. But half of it did the job, you paint it directly onto rusty parts, of which both stands where exactly that, so who am I to complain?

 

[pidjones]

You might want to clear coat with rattle-can 2k over the frame paint. I've read that POR15 (a great product) isn't UV stable. Clear 2k should take care of that.

 

[chilidawg]

Will this work?

https://www.amazon.com/Dupli-Color-DA16 ... eature_div

It doesn't say anything about 2K on it, but....?

 

[pidjones]

Will this work?

https://www.amazon.com/Dupli-Color-DA16 ... eature_div

It doesn't say anything about 2K on it, but....?

No, that is just lacquer. Use this: https://www.amazon.com/SprayMax-Glamour ... way&sr=8-1

 

[chilidawg]

The project is still on-going. Motor is still away, frame is done, gas tank is done, all I've really been doing is cleaning up a lot of parts. I ought to be able to rebuild this thing and still have clean hands.

This week I've been pulling the fairing and getting into the wiring loom of what is now the donor bike, so there really hasn't been much to report.

But I do have a question for you guru guys.

The 3 wires that disappear down the steering head and go no further, what do they do?

 

[joedrum]

Hmmm sheesh I should know that but my memory sucks so I don’t lol

 

[dan filipi]

That is part of the turn signal self cancel system. I believe it registers a turn in the steering.

 

[julimike54]

^^^That^^^ :good:

 

[chilidawg]

Thanks for that and I believe you are right. So all that's coming off, I already disabled all that stuff from the top end years ago.

Now I've got another little issue that I want to run by you guys.

This is what the Honda manual says about removing the lower, inner steering bearing race from the triple tree stem!

Truly helpful information HUH!!

I've already FUBAR'd the cage already, so I'm well past the point of no return.

View attachment 1

As there is no room for any kind of puller that I'm aware of, My thoughts are to add heat to it, a trick I've used at work many times for getting bearings onto a shaft but without much luck in getting them off, because usually the shaft gets just as heated and I'm back to square one.

If you guys have any tips or tricks you might want to pass on? I'm all ears!

 

[Ansimp]

Any truly stuck bearing I use a cutoff wheel in an angle grinder and cut diagonally. You can often hit the bearing inner race with a hammer when it is almost cut through and it will break allowing it to slide off easily. Don’t stress if you nick the shaft as you are cutting diagonally so you don’t lose much mounting tension when you press the new bearing on.

 

[saganaga]

chilidawg » October 10th, 2016, 2:19 am[/url]":u2skacak]
Built me a new shop in the back yard, ain't quite finished yet but it's getting there.

Working under that car port, with the heat, rain and the mosquito's, which at some points I thought was luxurious, compared with working in the street in London.

To reply to a very old post (just started reading this) with some useful advice for anyone else in this situation, a box fan pointed at you while working will greatly improve the mosquito situation. Mosquitoes are very poor fliers.

 

[chilidawg]

You are absolutely right, if you mess with the Mosquito's normal Modus Operandi, they are too confused to even think about eating you, fans work well! Air conditioners work better though.

Welcome to THE forum!

 

[mcgovern61]

On boat shafts where bearings are stuck, we freeze the shaft with CO2. You could do the same with dry ice.

When we use heat, even though the shaft may also get heated, we heat the bearing and hit the outer race with a spray of water (shock it).

 

[chilidawg]

Thanks Ansimp! you nailed it.

I tried the heat first with an electric heat gun and it wasn't going anywhere, so I turned up the heat with a Map gas torch and it still didn't want to move.

Then I got the Dremmel out with some cut off wheels, got about halfway through and banged a rusty old screwdriver into the slot a couple of times and it popped right off.

On closer inspection, there's a crack that's not even on the same plane as the slot, so I'm guessing that when these things know you're serious, they will just give up and do your bidding.

 

[Ansimp]

:good: :clapping:

 

[desertrefugee]

Yeah, the old Aussie is one of our "go to" resources for sure. Just don't ask for beer advice...