Two Stroke Motor Freeze

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Well, the top end is off and you can see that there was a ring failure. The piston actually looks worse than the picture.

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Inside the case is complete crud. Not much doubt in my mind that I will have to split the cases to inspect and clean up the mess.

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The cylinder wall is pretty bad too.

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If I can get everything inside the case cleaned up, get the next size up piston and have it bored out maybe I'll have something??? Then I have to replace the ignition, maybe the crank or crank bearings. Everything is adding up plus I'm into things that are foreign to me.

Still, a great day in the wedo garage. Just getting the barrel separated from the piston was a victory. I love this shiat.
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=207054#p207054:10smqfbr said:
joedrum » 46 minutes ago[/url]":10smqfbr]
looks like most of the stuff in the cylinders is above and can be cleaned up from looking at the pic
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How to go about it though? Evaporust, ATF? It doesn't look like there are metal shards in there, none in the oil I drained off. I know a guy that works on these and I'm going to let him look at it and see what he thinks. Kinda take it from there. If the crankcase will clean up then I'll just try to clean the cylinder wall, get a new piston and rings.
 
smart hands and dont dig below cylinder wals is how you do it ..if it was me id use something aggressive and hard like a file ..i like triangle files and a rather fat one ..i had a piece of one about 2" long i used on hooch and the junkyard dog builds ,,hooch was bad and the dog was even worse the motors came out very powerful ....and i like to do it dry at first as you need to see what you are doing ... but im the only one ive ever seen do it like i do ...smart hands have to be in play not to dig into cylinder walls ..once it gets rather good razor knife blades work good if used at the right angle ..but im not saying you should try this ..just saying it can be done ..i also you use hand files on heads and such i never have machine one done never had the money for that stuff
 
It was suggested to me to flush out the crankcase with brake fluid. I'm going to pull the clutch plates off first, but does anyone see a problem with that?
 
I cleaned some rusted, bad-looking cylinders in the Hunley with single-edge razor blades clamped in a hemostat. Keeps you from gouging the walls. Uses a lot of blades,so buy an industrial 100 pack.
 
This is a picture of the plate that holds the points, condenser and charging coils. The plate was submerged. I intend to replace the points and condenser but I'm wondering if the coils will be okay?

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They are around $85 each for the ones I found on ebay. Just as soon not do that if I can avoid it. The wiring looks to be intact. I will be trying to see if I get a spark before I buy them.
 
Glycol based brake fluids (DOT 3, 4, 5.1) are hygroscopic (absorb water) and could be used to flush a crankcase, but can be harmful to crankcase seals since the glycol can cause rubber seals to soften. Brake fluid was often added to leaking automatic transmissions to soften the seals and temporarily stop the leaks. However, the softened seals wore quickly and the leaking quickly returned, worse than before.

Dot 5 is a hydrophobic silicone-based fluid. It does not mix with water and will not flush water from the crankcase.

IMHO, cleaning the crankcase with hot water and soap, followed by rinsing with clean water, is a better cleaning method. Afterwards, you should thoroughly air dry the crankcase, with a fan or even a hair dryer.
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=207199#p207199:1ee8k10s said:
wedoo2 » Today, 8:50 am[/url]":1ee8k10s]
This is a picture of the plate that holds the points, condenser and charging coils. The plate was submerged. I intend to replace the points and condenser but I'm wondering if the coils will be okay?

IMG-0807.jpg


They are around $85 each for the ones I found on ebay. Just as soon not do that if I can avoid it. The wiring looks to be intact. I will be trying to see if I get a spark before I buy them.
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I would spray em with CRC or other Eletrical cleaner and try em out.They look ok to me.
 
I've cleaned everything up. The condenser disintegrated when I took it off. It was history anyway. I have a part-time job at O'Rielly's and I'll take it in tomorrow to have one of my pros test it and give me a lesson.

The rotor looked pretty brutal but I've been trying to clean it up as well. Might be able to re-use it. The magnet is still strong. I figure that if I can clean all of this up, get a new set of points and a condenser, replace the piston and rings, hone out the cylinder wall and then clean out the inside of the crankcase (whew) I'll put it all back together and see if it runs. If not I've only got about $150 in it. Maybe less if I buy the cheap pistons.

I will try to clean out the crankcase with some Dawn and water, rinse and dry. Put some oil in it.
 
Checked out the charging coils yesterday and they seem to be fine according to my guys at O'Rielly's. One of my customers with dirt bikes gave me a good condenser and a set of points. They are not the same but he has a ton of them. Has some flywheels too and I'm going to take mine by and see if one matches up.

Old school guy; his name is Ace.
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=207245#p207245:3427c0rm said:
joedrum » Yesterday, 8:06 am[/url]":3427c0rm]
great when things come together
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Be glad you got out of Indiana Joe. We're having December, January weather.
 

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