Will's 79 Single Carb Conversion

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[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=123211#p123211:1hu55kiq said:
wbishop » Sat Jun 28, 2014 9:28 pm[/url]":1hu55kiq]
Haha, don't blame ya, Duster. Gets a little chilly with the wind. :) I do have a question on that 2 to 1 adapter. I don't have any metal laying around that I can think of. Would anyone recommend running to Lowes to pick up some aluminum, or is there a better (cheaper) option to make the adapter plate?
You could use any metal you choose. Iron of course will need painted. Nylon plate can work if you have it or if you're into electronics and have some heavy phenolic plate that could work. Just about anything in plate form that isn't affected by gasoline or can be protected to weather the effects can be used. Yes even plywood.
 
Well, I've got plenty of plywood. :) I have some thick plastic laying around from old retail cell phone display stands too I might use. Didn't even think about it. I might drop a piece in a bit of gasoline and let it soak for a few days to see how it affects it. I really appreciate the help!
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=123217#p123217:1px0k53w said:
slabghost » Sat Jun 28, 2014 9:00 pm[/url]":1px0k53w]
We try to save money where we can and that makes for some unusual solutions.

Haha! I'm all about saving money!!! I got about 30 pallets free from an office equipment company here locally and built my work bench and shelves in the garage out of them with the help of some extra 2x4's I had laying around. Most of the pallets have good 1/2 inch plywood on the top of them and were built pretty tough for copy machines, etc. My only cost was screws! :)
 
As long as its flat,thats all that matters


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I'm curious to see Krakum1967's solution to the throttle cable adapter. Everyone seems to have a more unique idea on this problem. The throttle arm on the carb has some challenging obstacles to overcome.
What worked for me was to cut off most of the arm that holds the choke adj/ screw and has the atachment ball and cut a slit in the top and bottom of the remaining arm. The top I cut a little deeper and wide enough to put the cable end thru and used a zip tye to secure it to the arm to keep it from coming off. Then I rebent the original throttle bracket and mounted it to the back corner of the carb with a small piece of steel to extend it out away from the carb to make the cable path more inline and it seems to work very well. I have more than enough pull to get to secondary fully open and still have some adjustment left.
Everyones ideas are different and I have seen some very good ideas on this. This just happened to be for me at least the easiest and most cost efficient I could come up.
Have you gotten any ideas on this yet in mind Wbishop?
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=123407#p123407:1prj1n5x said:
weightlifter99 » Mon Jun 30, 2014 6:43 am[/url]":1prj1n5x]
I'm curious to see Krakum1967's solution to the throttle cable adapter. Everyone seems to have a more unique idea on this problem. The throttle arm on the carb has some challenging obstacles to overcome.
What worked for me was to cut off most of the arm that holds the choke adj/ screw and has the atachment ball and cut a slit in the top and bottom of the remaining arm. The top I cut a little deeper and wide enough to put the cable end thru and used a zip tye to secure it to the arm to keep it from coming off. Then I rebent the original throttle bracket and mounted it to the back corner of the carb with a small piece of steel to extend it out away from the carb to make the cable path more inline and it seems to work very well. I have more than enough pull to get to secondary fully open and still have some adjustment left.
Everyones ideas are different and I have seen some very good ideas on this. This just happened to be for me at least the easiest and most cost efficient I could come up.
Have you gotten any ideas on this yet in mind Wbishop?
Do you have any pictures of this?

Thx
Brian
 
I honestly haven't crossed that bridge yet. I'm running to O'Reilly's to get some hose, fuel line, inline filter, etc here shortly. My goal is to just get the dang thing to fire up. My pull cable snapped so I'm going to need a new one but I'm sure I can. Fab some sort of bracket to make it work. I did purchase the uni-link for the carb too. I haven't installed it but it's my understanding that it will aid this process. As soon as I have all the parts in front of me I'm going to get things assembled and try and document and take pictures of it all.
 
Just got home from O'Reillys. I'm thinking about putting this project on the back burner for now. I'm realizing with the way paychecks fall that I probably won't get the bike running until the end of the season. Had a pretty frustrating time dealing with the know it alls at O'Reillys who were less than helpful. I'm trying to make the 1.25 OD grab bar pipe fit inside the 1 3/8 opening on the vw manifold and they weren't interested in helping. The manager asked why I was there if I didn't even know what part numbers I was looking for... I told him what I was trying to accomplish and he laughed and told me the Gl1000 parked outside was his and if I was smart I'd just pay someone $550 to rebuild and resynch the factory carbs and I'm starting to think he might be right. I'm not sure what I'm going to do at this point. I wish I had part numbers so I could just order the stuff I need online but I don't even know what I'm looking for. I definitely won't be going back in there though.
 
Agreed as I used to work for Oreilly's and never treated a customer that way. I alwways showed some interest in a customer and their project. And as far as some part numbers they have a gates 1 1/2 fuel hose part no. 24024 that I used and big block chevy water pump gaskets they had to order (4 of them). They were fel pro gaskets from a previous thread here that lists the number. And besides, he's must have more cents that brains for paying the 550 to get someone else to build his carbs cause he's gonna have to pay em again in a couple years to do the same thing! I thought I wasn't gonna be able to ride mine this year with all the daunting task it seemed to me to have to do also. The hardest part for me was trying to drill the holes in the grab bars to mount to the heads. Then I read Joe's idea of using my dremel to elongate the existing hole to where I needed it and "MAN" what an easier method! This chinese ss material is hard and cost me several bits trying to drill but the cut and file method worked like as charm! I used 1 existing hole and then cut a slot in the other side to where I needed the new hole and with the strength of the ss the flange holds its shape and does very well in the sealing department when used with some rtv.
Don't get discouraged Wbishop as there have been many people before you that , with just a little patience, have gotten their oldwings in ride able, and when I say ride able i mean wow these things really move fast, kind of ride able. Surprising to say the least.
If its part numbers you need just check out the threads here on the single carb conversion topics and read em all. I did before I started my work. Spent about three to four days reading what everyone else tried and failed and turned around and tried again til they got it right.There are part numbers here and explanations of everything everyone has tried and used to get their oldwings go n with very little cash. You too can do it! Just relax and think of your oldwing zipping down the road with a smile on your face and bugs in your teeth! Its not that hard and any help you need just ask me or anyone else here and all of us are more than willing to help you. We all like to see an oldwing come back to life for someone that shows it the care and attention it deserves and they joy you have with the journey to get it there. Let us help.
 
+1 on weightlifter99's advice
I would like to make one thing clear if the original carbies are not worn out (slides, needles etc) and rebuilt to a professional standard with oem parts used, you will have many years of trouble free operation provided they are used and not allowed to stagnate.
 
Go to gates website and find the numbers you need


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Yep, I went to an O Reillys and they let me go back and compare hoses.
The guys were very helpful and actually interested in what I was doing.
Real auto parts store guys are like this.
Put the one with that dumbaxx manager on your blacklist never to visit again and tell your friends.
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=123497#p123497:848nr942 said:
dan filipi » Tue Jul 01, 2014 9:13 am[/url]":848nr942]
Yep, I went to an O Reillys and they let me go back and compare hoses.
The guys were very helpful and actually interested in what I was doing.
Real auto parts store guys are like this.
Put the one with that dumbaxx manager on your blacklist never to visit again and tell your friends.

Maybe a ngw member? :smilie_happy:
 
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