1976 Engine Rebuild

[ekvh]

I think my 77's have it and there is a material like furnace filter in it. Not real tight so air freely moves through it. I think a dish scrubber would work nice, stainless if you can find it. It supposed to get emptied regularly. Yearly?

 

[julimike54]

Y'all are describing the plastic catch from air filter airbox on the '86. It's where the airbox liquids (water and/or oil) drain to. Empty is I believe semi-annual

 

[bronko37]

https://parts.southernhonda.com/a/Honda_ ... 1011F.html

It is indeed a breather. It connects to both the crank case and the air box. There is an overflow tube that runs to the bottom of the bike. I will just use a home made filter as recommended.

Thanks guys,

 

[dan filipi]

Is it a Honda part?
Does look made to bolt on right there.

 

[bronko37]

Oh yea Dan. Its a factory Honda part. It looks a little different on 78 and up models I think. Ill do a video later so every one can see just wtf I'm talking about, lol.

 

[bronko37]

https://parts.southernhonda.com/a/Honda_ ... 71005.html

Can anyone tell me what part number 27 is? Is there supposed to be an oring or a spacer under the tach cable in the fuel pump?

 

[bronko37]

Yesterday was a big day. We finally got the motor back into the frame of the bike arty: All was going well and we were high fiving all over the joint. Then Dad was going to head home whilst I began making all the connections. I started looking at the wires for the thermostat, oil pressure, and such. I routed the wire for the neutral switch and thats when it hit me :head bang: :head bang: :head bang: We had just finished torquing all the bolts and I forgot the neutral switch wire! :Awe: :Awe:

Live and learn..So out the motor came again, just enough to get that wire on. Its amazing how something so small can bring a project to a screeching halt, lol.

Anyway, we persevered and now the carbs and what not are back on. Hopefully within the week I will be able to fire her up and see if the juice was worth the squeeze.

 

[Denver]

One of the many things we all seem to refer to as experience??? :hihihi:

 

[dan filipi]

Yeah it happens.

I don't know what part 27 is, sorry.

 

[mcgovern61]

Man! That stinks! :Awe:

 

[Denver]

Years ago when was looking for some Yamaha parts, for a bike several years old at the time. The guy on the phone said, That things _ _ years old, time get a new bike. We need not repeat what i said :nea:

 

[bronko37]

I know that someone out there has the answer, is there an oring under the tach cable end in the fuel pump? Or does the cable just go in?

 

[slabghost]

Pretty sure I've read of an O ring there. I expect that is mystery part #27.

 

[dan filipi]

bronko37 » Today, 12:43 pm[/url]":3batk51u]
I know that someone out there has the answer, is there an oring under the tach cable end in the fuel pump? Or does the cable just go in?

Yes, #31 in that link.

 

[julimike54]

Per these guys it's a "washer thrust"

https://www.cmsnl.com/honda-gl1000-gold-wing-1976-usa_model7390/partslist/E++05.html#results

 

[bronko37]

Here is an update. Last week I started up the bike, Tuesday I believe it was. Anyway, the bike seems to be running fine and all seems well with the world.

On Friday when I got home from work I rolled her out and started it up, just to hear it run, check for leaks, and hear it run...lol

I still have a leak coming from within the belt cover area :Awe: This thing has been driving me nuts. I thought for sure the leak was on the split line of the case. When I first purchased the bike I replaced both cam seals and the crank seal and something in there is still leaking. So...I ordered a tool that will allow me to remove the belt covers easier while leaving the radiator in place. Then I will be able to actually see which seal is leaking and finally make the proper repair. Its no biggie, just irritating at this point and I can't believe I didnt just replace all 3 of them when I was in there, but they all seemed fine and I know they are new. So thats number 1 now, I wanna fix it so I'm not blowing oil all over the damn bike.

So then, yesterday I took her down the street. I decided to run to Walgreen's on it to pick up a couple things. When I left the store I hit the starter and it went...errr........errrr......nothin. :head bang:

I had recharged my battery but truth be told I do not take great care of my batteries. There was no tender on the battery all winter long and I was cranking it over while on the charger to start the bike in the cold, with empty carbs. So I got her pushed and hopped on, she fired right up when I popped the clutch. I am really hoping that my battery is just in less than stellar condition and its not a problem with the charging system. Electrical work is one thing that I am completely handicapped on. I don't understand anything about any of it. My battery looks as tho it may be a little low on fluid, can I add some and see if it holds a charge? I know there are some basic tests I can do as well to determine if its the battery or the charging system. To this point, she has never left me stranded because of any electrical issues.

 

[joedrum]

im sure the sense wire is telling the voltage rugulator to charge as battery is down ...and its not really down ..just the voltage at the sense wire that goes through so many connections it becomes no measure of the battery at all ...on my bike the sense wire is hooked directly to the battery and is a perfect reading on battery ...and the stator will not over charge it andd biol the water out and ruin the battery ....

 

[mcgovern61]

Simple test..... put a volt meter on the battery with the engine off and check the volts. (Should be at least 12.2 volts) Start the engine and run the throttle up to 3,000 RPM while checking the battery voltage. You should see the voltage increase to at least 13.8 minimum and up to 14.8 volts.

If no change, let us know from there.

 

[canuckxxxx]

If you want to run the engine without the radiator, and not have it overheat, you can run some 1" rad hose from both rad hose connection points. Have then extended above the bike. Pour coolant in to fill engine.

You can then run it this way for several minutes and will have a clear view of your oil leak.

I did this when I checked my ignition advance using a timing wheel on the end of the crank.

Good luck
Brian

 

[bronko37]

bronko37 » Mon Mar 07, 2016 9:19 am[/url]":398birjw]
I still have a leak coming from within the belt cover area :Awe: This thing has been driving me nuts. I thought for sure the leak was on the split line of the case. When I first purchased the bike I replaced both cam seals and the crank seal and something in there is still leaking. So...I ordered a tool that will allow me to remove the belt covers easier while leaving the radiator in place. Then I will be able to actually see which seal is leaking and finally make the proper repair. Its no biggie, just irritating at this point and I can't believe I didnt just replace all 3 of them when I was in there, but they all seemed fine and I know they are new. So thats number 1 now, I wanna fix it so I'm not blowing oil all over the damn bike.

Morning gang, heres a quick update on the progress. I'm getting a multi-meter this weekend so i can finally check the battery.

Now as for the oil leak. Originally I was unable to locate a factory seal for the crank shaft so I just had one made to the dimensions (35x55x8). However this is when I very first got the bike, and I was much less edumacated than I am now. What I did not realize when I got the seal made was the original seal is a double lip seal, I just had one made with a single skirt. I was able to locate a factory seal from a honda joint in Missouri and it is currently on its way in the mail :yahoo: . Soooo, I will be able to finally solve this nagging minor leak for good, I hope :beg: .

On to a tool review: I ordered Randakks special tool for removing the timing belt covers without removing the radiator and I have to say this tool is a real piece of sh*t. Its the first product from Randakk that I am truly dissapointed in. It is cheap, and flimsy. Its a plasma cut little crappy thingy and it does NOT work as advertised. The cover on the left of the motor (riding position) has that raised area to clear the crank pulley. therefore you cannot use the special tool as recommended. Ill do a video to further demonstrate. However, I did manage to get the covers off once I threw that tool across the room and did it the ol' fashion way. But I would not want to fiddle dick around with trying to get them covers back in place without just pulling the radiator. Long story short, just pull the radiator to work on the front of the bike, its so much easier.