1976 Engine Rebuild

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Looks like good work so far! :good:

On a side note: Your bike is awful and should be sent to me for proper disposal. . . :lust: :BigGrin: :hihihi: ;)
 
So tomorrow I'll get the stator off. I woulda done it tonight but it is being a lil stubborn and I don't want to beat on it. Tomorrow I'll bring a puller home from the school. It moves but kinda binds up after about 1/2". Should be simple with a puller.

Anyway, after that I'll be ready to split it open. Then I need to gather all my new parts and clean up the Pistons. Going well so far..

(Images rotated, DF)
 

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Just read through the whole thread, Nice looking bike .. Not sure if my comments will make you feel better or worse ? But ya got it tore down now so i would at least Mill the heads to Up the compression if not also Bore and increase the CC ,,But Trans Fluid ? for additive is a good thing for you trying to revive a sitting motor, "Trans fluid story for ya" Had a Olds Rocket 350 motor back in the mid 1970's had it in a 1945 Willy's Jeep..Started smoking like a bastard ? checked the plugs compression Leak down test ect..Damn ! nothing ..After months of very noticeable Smoking A Lot ! Just like you just getting ready to pull the motor ! But !!?? By accident seen a small leek on the driveway ? so crawled under and it was a Vacuum hose connected to the Trans modulator ? The Modulator failed and was sucking Trans Fluid into the Carb ? FIXED !!! wow ! (Also you will like this story) My friend years ago had a Dick for a boss, so after years of working for him he had to quit ! got stiffed for his last check, So he took a Quart of Trans fluid and dumped it in his Gas tank of his boss New Cadillac..SMOKED Like a Diesel !! hahaha , Again it does No Harm Just SMOKES . He heard they had to pull the motor and for No reason Rebuild it ? So we don't see any pictures yet ? Is your Oil rings gummed up or froze ? :read:
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=165786#p165786:380bxj53 said:
Fstsix » Thu Jan 07, 2016 9:36 am[/url]":380bxj53]
Just read through the whole thread, Nice looking bike .. Not sure if my comments will make you feel better or worse ? But ya got it tore down now so i would at least Mill the heads to Up the compression if not also Bore and increase the CC ,,But Trans Fluid ? for additive is a good thing for you trying to revive a sitting motor, "Trans fluid story for ya" Had a Olds Rocket 350 motor back in the mid 1970's had it in a 1945 Willy's Jeep..Started smoking like a bastard ? checked the plugs compression Leak down test ect..Damn ! nothing ..After months of very noticeable Smoking A Lot ! Just like you just getting ready to pull the motor ! But !!?? By accident seen a small leek on the driveway ? so crawled under and it was a Vacuum hose connected to the Trans modulator ? The Modulator failed and was sucking Trans Fluid into the Carb ? FIXED !!! wow ! (Also you will like this story) My friend years ago had a Dick for a boss, so after years of working for him he had to quit ! got stiffed for his last check, So he took a Quart of Trans fluid and dumped it in his Gas tank of his boss New Cadillac..SMOKED Like a Diesel !! hahaha , Again it does No Harm Just SMOKES . He heard they had to pull the motor and for No reason Rebuild it ? So we don't see any pictures yet ? Is your Oil rings gummed up or froze ? :read:

LOL thats a funny story about ur buddy.

Yea, I know about adding ATF and all that. Honestly I wanted to tear it down for the experience and all that. I could mill the heads but I dont want to do the bores and all that because I dont want to have to replace pistons and such. I just believe the rings are gummed up and not "working" within the bores. I've ridden the bike quite a bit and the compression still sucks, and I also have oil blowing past and out the exhaust. I believe I will get the motor split tonight so we will have some pix and an idea of whats going on in there.

As far as milling the heads I dont know how much to take off or how much I can take off. Im not really looking to soup the motor up, just make it run as intended with proper compression. And I am having lots of fun working on this bike so rebuilding the motor and such is not really a chore at all. I am a machinist by trade so this is all coming to me pretty naturally.
 
Bike slightly warmed, all plugs out, throttle wide open, cranked until the gauge quit rising. 90-95psi on all 4 cylinders.

And thanks for the compliments on the bike. It has been a labor of love for sure. After this rebuild the bike and I will be ONE and I shall never let her go...
 
Did you by chance try a second gauge ? never know now days..just keep that in the back of your mind after your build and If you see low compression again . Milling the heads is complex it will change the Valve timing and the Cam will need to be De-greed, Thanks for posting all the pics looks like you are gonna have a Solid Motor for sure ! don't mind me i just can't leave stock alone :BigGrin:
 
I tried two seperate gauges at various times. Always get the same result. As stated in an earlier post, I got 140psi on one cylinder, one time. The next day I checked it and got 90psi. I am confident the rings are not working properly and that is the entire issue.
 
I think I asked before, when you get it open to get some clear close up pics of the rings in their grooves, the rings after removing and the empty grooves. I'm curious what it all looks like getting the low compression.
 
I am curious too Dan. I will do my best to take some solid pix of the whole thing. I may also make a video. Ill do the best I can to chronicle the entire project for future reference.
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=165791#p165791:2pz33qst said:
Fstsix » Thu Jan 07, 2016 9:53 am[/url]":2pz33qst]
...Milling the heads is complex it will change the Valve timing and the Cam will need to be De-greed...

:headscratch:
How will cutting the heads change the timing of the valves? All milling will do is put the cam closer to the crank, and the belt adjustment/tensioner will negate that difference easily. Nothing is done to change the cam... :headscratch:
It will certainly put the valves closer to the piston tops...
Just a question....
 
Me as well, other than more compression,= more stress,wear & tear is a greater factor,etc. :headscratch: :popcorn:
 
There is enough variance accounted for in production that milling the heads flat will make no real difference. Cams are often a half tooth off or more and motors run fine. If performance is a goal you'll get more from cc ing the heads and porting them. Personally I'm more tempted to add displacement with thicker gaskets than adding compression through planing.
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=165817#p165817:1mh1lcp7 said:
AApple » 21 minutes ago[/url]":1mh1lcp7]
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=165791#p165791:1mh1lcp7 said:
Fstsix » Thu Jan 07, 2016 9:53 am[/url]":1mh1lcp7]
...Milling the heads is complex it will change the Valve timing and the Cam will need to be De-greed...

:headscratch:
How will cutting the heads change the timing of the valves? All milling will do is put the cam closer to the crank, and the belt adjustment/tensioner will negate that difference easily. Nothing is done to change the cam... :headscratch:
It will certainly put the valves closer to the piston tops...
Just a question....
Moving the heads closer to the crank will change the belt position, That Slack your talking about pulled out by Belt Tension pulley is a big deal most likely retarding Camshaft . Also My Mercedes Benz has 11:1 Compression , Milling the heads and using Clay to check Valve Clearance was put into my statement as "Complex" , Also My GL has 9.8-1 Compression after i Boost it with my Supercharger that would be moved up to around 12-1 or even more .. My point ? 14 Years and 40 Thousand miles with a Blower .These GL's can handle a little more than they give us. 125.000 inch could bring up 9.8 to around or close to 11-1 , Big difference in power , Also the use with High compression can be Offset by the use of a Longer duration Cam with more Overlap bringing down the Cylender pressure, and helping with Detonation , btw we all hate Ethanol, But ? it really has been a Plus for High comp and Turbo engines by slowing the Burn down with Alcohol https://books.google.com/books?id=5uMDA ... ng&f=false
 
Interesting stuff but all I want is quality stock performance, for now I guess. Since this is my very first engine rebuild, and 2 years ago I was afraid of rebuilding a simple carburetor, I think Ill just stick with being able to put the darn thing back together correctly and attaining my goal of achieving stock compression per cylinder. Perhaps once I'm done with this I will look at high performance modifications but not just yet.

One foot in front of the other...

However, please keep the conversation going as I am soaking it all in and trying my best to learn and understand the finer points of creating power.
 
I milled 0.025" and the cam was retarded less than a degree. What you think you'd gain in compression boost is lost in cam retarding. I've advanced mine quite a bit to get it back, but I wonder about my rings letting it by the other way. My compression was a bit low to begin with. Now at 170~~~.Warmer weather plans are for a copper gasket, truing the block some and I plan on going thinner yet on the gasket, shooting to 0.025" if it can bringing my total to 0.040". I might do it all to my 87 instead of my 85.
I'd love to toss new rings in, but it might be more difficult than aussigolds video and beyond my skillset. ThAt hasn't stopped me before. Hmmmm

It's going to depend on the wife who was recently diagnose with lupus. Time will tell.
 

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