1985 GL1200 LTD Reg/Rec

[dan filipi]

External does have its appeal. Easier replacement and more power.

 

[joedrum]

hmmm im with changing stator first .....and doing regulator rectifier upgrsde ..connection upgrade...

 

[Rednaxs60]

Always too many choices. If there are no special tools, changing the stator is the way to go. I will keep the alt mod in my back pocket. Can probably have the bike apart next week, before the parts show up and back together much faster. There are two manufacturers of a stator that will work in my bike (500 watt). Rick's Motorsport and Electrosport.

Electrosport specs:

The Electrosport Industries Motorcycle Stator is a high quality stator that replaces the OE stator on your bike. This stator features:

Twice-baked epoxy finish for increased conductivity
Dual-sheathed wiring for reliability and increased performance
Computer-controlled stator winding and use of thicker materials results in higher output than OEM units
20% greater output than O.E.M. stator
Triple insulated for maximum reliability
Supplied with new electrical connectors and wiring sleeves
1-year manufacturer's warranty

Rick's Motorsport Specs:

Stators come with a wire harness, rubber grommets, and all end connectors for a more tech friendly installation whenever possible
One year warranty
Item is bike specific, may vary from image
In some models the grommet & triggercoil are not included.
Installation instructions for the OE grommet will be provided

Leaning towards Rick's Motorsports

Cheers

 

[slabghost]

Both sound good to me really. I've not read of any issues with either. 1000 and 1100 stators will fit also. Joedrum's Hooch has a 1000 stator installed.So I'd go with the best deal on the highest output stator to fit any model.

 

[Ansimp]

Have heard plenty of good things about the Rick's stators. :good: on replacing the stator with your new rr control circuit.

 

[Rednaxs60]

Going to "chew" on this for the weekend. I'm perplexed at the low voltage, <1VAC on each phase, would have expected to see some variance. A fellow on another forum is perplexed about this as well. Going to crop the wiring I added back to where I joined it. Can't hurt to keep looking.

Good article on stators, warranty and quality on GW Docs. Here is the link.
https://goldwingdocs.com/forum/viewtopic ... 12&t=32992

Do want to test the system with the new RR. Do believe it will pay off in the long run.

Cheers

 

[zman]

was your bike not charging in the beginning?...I thought you were installing the regulator as an upgrade on a charging bike.

 

[Denver]

Almost positive Rick's sells Electrosport, :headscratch: have to look for my catalog. :smilie_happy:

 

[Rednaxs60]

zman » Today, 9:19 am[/url]":kot8t1sb]
was your bike not charging in the beginning?...I thought you were installing the regulator as an upgrade on a charging bike.

Jeff - you are correct, installing an SH847 series RR. everything was good, then poof, gone. Still puzzled.

 

[Rednaxs60]

Denver » 35 minutes ago[/url]":2vcazq63]
Almost positive Rick's sells Electrosport, :headscratch: have to look for my catalog. :smilie_happy:

The Electrosprt is approximately $195.00 CDN and Rick's is $245.00 CDN. Still puzzled by the consistent low VAC.

Cheers

 

[zman]

To know for sure that there is no interference with the reading check the AC volts (yellow wires) disconnected from the system...unsolder or unplug the connector block, That way you don't pull the engine in vein.
Remember there are 2 different readings you will get, by putting the ground meter probe to ground on the frame or battery ground then touching each yellow is a lower reading then the other way which is touching the ground probe to one yellow and the positive probe to another yellow wire, basically grounding the black probe cuts the reading in half.

 

[Rednaxs60]

Jeff - have done all that, but have investigated further. Accessed the stator wires all the way to where the wires come out of the engine case. Very interesting what I found. The stator wires coming out of the engine case were discoloured, baked, brittle, and wire was exposed. Honda used 14 gauge wire on a charging system that can generate up to 50A per phase - not best practice. I also expect that this stator may be original. Can't imagine what the internal wiring may look like. Attached a picture of the stator wires coming out of the engine case. Have to fix regardless.

Cheers

 

[zman]

OK, I just cant imagine how installing a regulator could wipe out a stator, I guess it was at a breaking point maybe.

 

[Rednaxs60]

A small correction - it's not 50A per phase - it's approximately 50A total - my error. I do not believe the new RR install took out the stator. I think something else happened, and it was a coincidence that I did the RR exchange as well.

I will find out, but that will depend on how I rectify this issue.

Cheers

 

[dan filipi]

Could be all it took was a momentary wire crossing or high stator load to finish it off.

 

[Ansimp]

I would use a high current test of your stator fields, that way there is no confusion about bad connections or shorted windings.

 

[Rednaxs60]

Have to correct the wiring issue - can't have bare electrical wires, and that would/will entail engine removal. It seems that the issues with stator wiring is at the various connection points, with the farther away from the stator the wiring is, the better/longer the connection lasts. Lots of information regarding the connector beside the battery, but would recommend a look at where the stator wires come out of the engine case. If the wire are degraded at this pass through, a lot of work is probably the order of the day to rectify.

The wires are 14 gauge and it was mentioned on another forum that this size wire should be sufficient for the VAC and current supplied by the 500 watt stator of the '85 LTD and '86 SEI.

This and other aspects of the charging system is probably why Honda went to an external alternator.

Talked to a friend who repaired HDs for quite a few years and he mentioned that this happened to HDs as well on a regular basis.

Told him about the Poorboy mod and that is his preference for a repair. I think he does not like stator systems.

Not making a decision until tomorrow. Have to go about town to look for parts availability.

Cheers

 

[zman]

O course it is your call, if there was a simple bolt on kit that would be nice, Personally I cant cut into original plastic or metal but many have no trouble with that, I am pretty sure you can drop the motor with the intake and engine intact, just have to disconnect wires , hoses and cables maybe air cleaner housing, some plastic to remove.

 

[Rednaxs60]

Jeff - torn as well about this issue. The alternator will probably be easy to source, but the crankshaft pulley, and mounting hardware not so. I also do not have access to a machine shop and would be doing a lot of hand fitment. The only cutting that I envision is the timing belt covers - from what I have read, this is possible. There are kits made, are these available now - don't know - but the dollar exchange, duty and taxes makes these out of reach at this time.

I would also like to know the state of the installed stator and this will require engine removal/movement. Could also do other work, cleaning and such.

If I do a new stator at this time, I would be looking at the wiring and how it is connected, wire size to try and minimize what happens. I would also be sourcing the parts, etc for an alt mod, only do one new stator.

A stator replacement is probably the best, fastest option at present. Sourcing parts for an alt mod will be a challenge here in Canada, but also because I am in Victoria on Vancouver Island - limited resources so to speak. I do like a challenge though.

Cheers

 

[zman]

From what I have seen the inner faring cover needs cut out to accommodate the alternator, outside(painted) cover remains intact. The condition of the current stator I feel is irrelevant because if you do pull the motor it would be a mistake not to install a brand new one, it is something you don't want to do again or in the near future.