1985 GL1200 LTD Reg/Rec

[zman]

opcorn:

 

[julimike54]

opcorn: opcorn:

 

[Rednaxs60]

Was thinking about the stator wires as I have now soldered them together. I also remember seeing several pictures showing the stator wires beside the battery and having a connector. Went looking for this and have found that the connector has been removed and the wires soldered. I was interested about this connection because I soldered the wires at the plug beside the RR under the false tank, and thought this was the only connector that should be soldered.

When I install the new RR, I now have options where to locate the new RR. I can cut the stator wires beside the battery and splice the new RR at this point and install the new RR in the rear of the bike.

I will be thinking about this this weekend.

Cheers

 

[mcgovern61]

I know there is a lot of advice to solder the wires all the time and get rid of the connector, but I have removed my engine several times for various reasons and found that cutting the wires or de-soldering the wires to remove that soldered connection gets old. I installed a brand new 3 wire connector on mine 2 years ago and have had great success. The key to the connector is to be sure the connections are clean and not corroded. It is the dirty connections that cause the overheating of the wires and failure of the connector.

 

[Tom_Charlton]

"Since a system should be in "balance" or as close to as possible at all times, I wonder about the balance in the battery between the positive and negative if my premise is correct. Not being an electrical engineer, but having dealt with electrical systems my previous life, I wonder about issues such as this and will do some research to see if I can find a plausible answer."

My turn to "pontificate": :read:
The alternator is a pump that changes the electrical differential of the two sides of the battery by removing electrons from the positive side of the battery. The negative side of the battery attempts to restore equilibrium by providing electrons that are channeled by the wiring through the lights, accessories, engine, and eventually back to the positive side of the battery.

An alternative theory says the alternator pumps positrons into the positive side of the battery thus creating the imbalance between the two sides of the battery.

Either way, it works and the Wing rolls and shines on.

 

[Terry]

mcgovern61 » Today, 8:13 am[/url]":36s25tj4]
I know there is a lot of advice to solder the wires all the time and get rid of the connector, but I have removed my engine several times for various reasons and found that cutting the wires or de-soldering the wires to remove that soldered connection gets old. I installed a brand new 3 wire connector on mine 2 years ago and have had great success. The key to the connector is to be sure the connections are clean and not corroded. It is the dirty connections that cause the overheating of the wires and failure of the connector.

In my electrical experience which is significant yet mostly residential, I have found just a handful of reasons for electrical connection overheating failure.

1. Loose connections.
2. Undersized wiring in high amperage draw conditions.
3.Poor or improperly installed connectors
4. Connection oxidation (similar to a dirty connection)

Pretty much in this order of priority or likelyhood.

In the electrical business clean and tight is right.
A clean (non oxidized) connection that is tight and properly sized will last.

 

[Tom_Charlton]

+++ on clean & tight!!!

 

[Denver]

Pretty much says it. :whistling:

 

[Rednaxs60]

I agree with the connector premise. Have the wires soldered right now; however, if I had to remove the engine for stator work, cutting then splicing/soldering the wires again would become old real quick. When it comes to this type of work, and from my previous life and living on a boat (40 foot Bayliner Bodega) for 5 years, I have a preference for marine grade items because of the design. The cost is not too prohibitive, and you can get waterproof connectors. Will be looking into this when I do the install of the new RR. Cheers

 

[mcgovern61]

Rednaxs60 » Thu Apr 14, 2016 12:54 pm[/url]":cdkukwto]
I agree with the connector premise. Have the wires soldered right now; however, if I had to remove the engine for stator work, cutting then splicing/soldering the wires again would become old real quick. When it comes to this type of work, and from my previous life and living on a boat (40 foot Bayliner Bodega) for 5 years, I have a preference for marine grade items because of the design. The cost is not too prohibitive, and you can get waterproof connectors. Will be looking into this when I do the install of the new RR. Cheers

I agree with that being a Mariner myself. I could have chosen marine grade connectors, but in the end decided to go with the same as original with new wire clips and a lot of dielectric grease the keep water and moisture out.

 

[Rednaxs60]

OEM replacements are always nice. I do know of a company that provides these, will have to order. Can get a "kit" of them because I also have other connections where it would be nice to have a proper connector installed. Would also look like I actually know what I'm doing! :smilie_happy:

Cheers

 

[slabghost]

Rednaxs60 » Thu Apr 14, 2016 2:55 pm[/url]":36paj678]
OEM replacements are always nice. I do know of a company that provides these, will have to order. Can get a "kit" of them because I also have other connections where it would be nice to have a proper connector installed. Would also look like I actually know what I'm doing! :smilie_happy:

Cheers

We won't tell. :hihihi:

 

[julimike54]

Now the cats out of the bag!

 

[Rednaxs60]

The old girl ('85 LTD for clarification) and I are the same, a work in progress!! :Egyptian:

 

[slabghost]

I've been in the classroom for more than a few years and I'm still learning. I'll be a work in progress until I die.

 

[Rednaxs60]

Spent yesterday installing the new SH847 RR on the bike. It is considerably larger than the Shindengen that was under the false tank. I have temporarily installed it on the rear luggage compartment where I had the accessory fuse block. I've attached a picture of the SH847 kit.

I have now relocated the accessory fuse block into the rear luggage compartment. Nice install. Put a rubber grommet in the luggage compartment where the wires come through.

After the install, started bike and everything worked well. Put all the bits back on the bike, went to go for a road test and bike not charging. have checked stator and no output for whatever reason. Hooked Shindengen RR up and still no joy. More investigating to do. Will post as I know more.

Cheers

 

[dan filipi]

Hope it's as simple as a blown fuse.

 

[Rednaxs60]

dan filipi » 20 minutes ago[/url]":1ozj0t3h]
Hope it's as simple as a blown fuse.

Bike starts and purrs, just no charging. Have checked and double checked the system, results always the same. Even wiggled the wires coming out of the engine case (recommended on another forum) and checked VAC - no change.

Understand taking the engine out is not that difficult - never having done one before. Will do a bit of reading this weekend and see what it all entails. Lots of good info here and other forums.

Decision time I guess - Poorboy or stator replacement. Both have good and bad points. Be a shame to not use the new SH847 series RR. Would also let me do some other small projects like rebuild of the clutch slave, clean the engine and frame as well (hell of a reason to do some cleaning).

Cheers

 

[dan filipi]

Nice bike you have. I'd replace the stator rather than going an external.

 

[Rednaxs60]

Thanks Dan - girlfriend thinks the alt mod would be best. One stator that I have never done before, and if it fails then go the alt mod. So many things to consider.

Cheers