1995 GL1500 SE 20th Anniversary Canadian Edition

[Rednaxs60]

I know but I won't discourage my friend from using his Triumph. He has done some good things to it especially his custom pain job. He likes his bike and he should ride it until it does die which won't be too soon.

Had another friend comment on the maintenance/work I'm going to do starting this week coming. Factored this in when I bought the bike. Got the least expensive 1500 in the right year and considered what should be done. Like a lot of things, do the work/maintenance up front so I can enjoy it, not the next person in line. Besides, I don't mind riding my 1200, it needs some love as well.

Have the air filters, main, sub and cruise, on hand. Timing belts - will replace the timing belt adjusters as well, but the older ones will not go to waste so to speak.

Rebuild forks, new seals, bushings and Progressive fork springs. I have noticed that first thing after sitting all night the front forks tend to stick, then release.

New rear Progressive air shocks. Expect that the OEM shock bushings will probably be in need of replacement and shocks do not last forever. Interesting that Honda had two air shocks on the rear of the 1200 series and on the higher end models - load leveling. The 1800 doesn't have this either. If the 1200 had reverse, be even better.

Since the front forks are off going to do the steering stem bearings. When I did the steering stem bearings on the 1200, the bearings fell apart. expect the ones on the 1500 may be past the best before date.

Sourced an Austone 175R16 for the 1500 rear. Will do wheel bearings and brake pads when tires are changed.

Coolant change. Already changed/flushed brake and clutch fluids.

Not a lot when it is detailed, but sounds like a lot.

Cheers

 

[Ansimp]

Graham who owns the 82 Aspencade (amongst many other bikes (30 plus)) showed up on his new acquisition an 89 Gl1500 with cruise and reverse. :good:

Graham’s new 89 Gl1500

• Ansimp
• Aug 11, 2018

 

[Rednaxs60]

It's an epidemic!

 

[Ansimp]

Rednaxs60 » Sun Aug 12, 2018 3:50 pm[/url]":1nhc9dz4]
It's an epidemic!

:salute:

 

[Rednaxs60]

When I sold my second '85 LTD, I listed everything I did to the bike because it would help in selling the bike more quickly, and to me it's full disclosure. My 1500 has some good upgrades and I'm not thinking about the lighting. I would have thought that the PO would have informed me of these.

Here's the kicker, there is an aftermarket Superbrace fork brace installed, it has progressive fork springs as well. When I found the Superbrace, I started to think that maybe PO to the fellow I bought the bike from had done some additional good work. I mention this because if the fellow I bought the bike off had done this work, certainly he would have mentioned it as a selling feature. Thankfully the rear shocks are OEM. Only have to figure out what to do about a second set of Progressive fork springs. Since the bike has been fairly inactive for the better part of 2 if not more years, changing out the Progressive springs for new may be the way to go. Will contact the company to see about a return as well. Will measure the old springs against the new for length.

New air filters in today as well. The main, sub and cruise filters. New fuel filter to install tomorrow.

Took the front end off today to rebuild the front forks and to prep the forks for new springs. Doing the timing belts and timing belt adjusters as well. Coolant flush, shifter seal, and shifter brace.

I would submit that main air filter change on the 1500 is the easiest to change. Definitely easier than the 1800. I would also say it is easier than the 1200 because of space limitations of the 1200.

Notice that the 1500 front forks do not have a locating clip on the forks like the 1200. The OEM service manual mentions that you "align" the upper surfaces of the fork tube and fork top bridge. Like the locating clip on the 1200 better.

Notice that there is an extra piece on the left fork called an oil lock piece. If it is supposed to be on the right as well, it was not installed last time these forks were apart. Any information on this would be appreciated.

Looking at the wiring for the LED lights and it is a bit of a spiders web, lots of splicing, using connectors that you would see on an auto trailer install:

These need to go. Need to install OEM style connectors for ease of removing panels and such for work/maintenance.

Also found some small damage on some panels. Need to get some ABS cement for repairs.

Turning into an interesting project.

Cheers

 

[Rednaxs60]

More work today.

New fuel filter installed. decided to cut the old one in half to see what it looks like:

Looks likes the filter was doing what it is designed to do; however, don't believe it has been changed in a while as I was told.

Installed the shifter brace and new shifter oil seal as well. This took the rest of the afternoon. Spent an inordinate amount of time getting the shifter shaft extension - not a lot of room to take this part out. Had to have the moon and stars aligned properly.

I received my Progressive springs and shocks today. Compared the new Progressives to the old spring and there is a difference:

The new Progressive springs are about a 1/4" longer and there is a distinct change from the ones I took out in that the Progressives ave a distinct transition from a progressive winding to the more tightly wound section. Will be looking at the rear shocks tomorrow.

Dumped the coolant today. Looked quite murky as if it had been in the engine for a while. Have to say that I think a coolant change on the 1500 is the easiest between the 1200/1500/1800.

Going to get the front forks back together and ready for install tomorrow. Will install after the timing belts are changed. Lots of room to work on the timing belts with the front forks removed.

More to follow. Cheers

 

[Rednaxs60]

Not a day for bike work, but did get a few minutes in this early evening.

Readjusted the shifter position, did not like where I had it. Also took less time to take the side cover and shifter extension shaft out. First time round always takes a bit longer.

Looked at the new and old fork springs. Checked the preload of both. The new Progressive springs are 20 1/2 inches. The ones I took out are 20 3/8 inches. This lets me know I have an extra 1/8 inch preload. Probably not enough to make a radical difference, but with the different spring winding, could be a significant difference. Looking forward to getting it buttoned up and getting some riding in. Here are pictures of the measurement for preload. First picture is the old spring preload:

Next Picture is the preload for the Progressive spring:

Next issue I have been researching is the case of the oil lock that is on one fork only. I took the forks apart and did not pay a lot of attention to this until I had the forks apart and the upper tube side by each. Did some further research and there is apparently only one oil lock and from what I have found, it is in the right fork leg - Virgilmobile over on GWDocs posted pictures of his 1500 front forks disassembled and still on the bike. Here is a picture of the forks showing the oil lock - bottom fork leg:

All for now. More to follow.

Cheers

 

[D-50Dave]

What's an oil lock and what does it do?

 

[AApple]

It's an "anti-dive" feature...helps keep the front of the bike from nose-diving on hard braking. :yes:

 

[Rednaxs60]

D-50Dave » Today, 2:58 am[/url]":30hf67yb]
What's an oil lock and what does it do?

My question as well. No idea. Have to find out.

 

[Rednaxs60]

Doing some research on the oil lock. In essence it is an oil flow restriction part. You can see in the pictures how the oil will flow faster past the damper tube without the oil lock than with the oil lock installed. It is position sensitive rather than speed sensitive. It alters the compression dampening in the last 10 mm or so of fork travel. A volume of oil is captured by it and must be forced through the gap made by the fork tube and the lock piece, or the pressure tube and lock piece, similar to a low speed valve. This circuit overrides all other compression damping, and the other circuits function only when the lock piece allows the fork to move (courtesy of Peter Verdone web site - https://www.peterverdone.com/archive/oillock.htm).

This oil lock is only installed on one of the fork tubes, not both. looked for information as to which fork tube it is installed in and cannot find anything, would have thought the OEM service manual would have specified. Looking at the design and what it is to do, I don't believe it really matters as to which fork leg it is in. One site I visited mentioned that Honda may have changed which fork leg the oil lock was in. For right now, the only picture I have seen of which fork leg this is in is the right fork leg.

As AApple mentions it is an addition and assists the anti-dive aspect of the system.

Cheers

 

[AApple]

Should be in the right side fork, as it is activated by the right side brake caliper. As the brake is applied, the caliper pivots slightly on the pivot bolt, and moves forward(I think). In the pic below, you can see where the caliper is bolted to the control valve that moves in the fork. The bolt is missing in the pic....it fell out on me and I dint even know it. :blush:

new2

• AApple
• Aug 13, 2017

Dang....looks like something is missing...

 

[Rednaxs60]

AApple » 11 minutes ago[/url]":2dvkkmt6]
Should be in the right side fork, as it is activated by the right side brake caliper. As the brake is applied, the caliper pivots slightly on the pivot bolt, and moves forward. In the pic below, you can see where the caliper is bolted to the control valve that moves in the fork. The bolt is missing in the pic....it fell out on me and I dint even know it. :blush:

new2

• AApple
• Aug 13, 2017

Dang....looks like something is missing...

Will be doing exactly that. Thanks.

 

[Rednaxs60]

Rednaxs60 » Yesterday, 5:56 pm[/url]":1fwrws92]

AApple » 11 minutes ago[/url]":1fwrws92]
Should be in the right side fork, as it is activated by the right side brake caliper. As the brake is applied, the caliper pivots slightly on the pivot bolt, and moves forward. In the pic below, you can see where the caliper is bolted to the control valve that moves in the fork. The bolt is missing in the pic....it fell out on me and I dint even know it. :blush:

new2

• AApple
• Aug 13, 2017

Dang....looks like something is missing...

Will be doing exactly that. Thanks.

Thought a couple of pics of the front forks and calipers may be good. The front fork anti-dive units appear to be the same. Have read where Honda switched the oil lock fork to the left side on later model 1500s. Here's the pic of the anti-dive units on my front forks:

Here are the front brake calipers, both attach to the anti-dive units: Right caliper:

Left:

Unfortunately Honda has left the placement of the oil lock fork out of the instructions.

 

[Rednaxs60]

Another day of not working on the bike, but did have a good afternoon at the local theatre watching a live production of "Grease". Lots of good tunes and an interesting take on the 1978 movie and 1971 live theatre production. Lots of gray hairs on hand.

Not all was lost. Picked up the new timing belt tensioners, 15 wt fork oil, and some deionized water to mix new antifreeze. Have all the necessary parts to install and put the front end back together starting tomorrow morning. Picking up the new plugs tomorrow afternoon.

Also ordered a 90 amp alternator from DB Electrical. Have read that the alternator is a weak point of the 1500 electrical system. Will travel with the 40 amp I take off as a spare - doesn't take up that much space.

Was looking on line at 1500 issues and apparently there was a relay used in the fuel pump circuit on the '88-'89 15002, but Honda rewired the later models so there is no relay in this circuit. This has been known to impact on the ECU so I will be looking into the change to assess what I need and where do you put a relay if installed.

Work starts tomorrow morning. Hope to have front end all buttoned up by Saturday night.

Cheers

 

[Rednaxs60]

Got some work done today. Timing belts and adjusters installed. Front forks rebuilt and installed - hopefully the alignment is good. New coolant as well - old stuff was a bit murky. Front back together. Really do hate all the plastic, but a necessary evil. Will finish plastic install tomorrow. Only work left on front is new brake pads when received.

Checked the tires - in good shape; however, date stamp is 4207. The PO did not do a lot of work on this bike. Also using ABS cement on cracks and such. New tires are scheduled for this fall - will also do brake pads at that time.

Think I'll take a break from work now, and just do a bit of riding. Have some other items I need so I will work on getting them over the next month or so.

Looking forward to riding with the new Progressive springs in the front. Should be a difference along with new bushings and oil.

More to follow. Cheers

 

[D-50Dave]

Rednaxs60 » Today, 12:31 am[/url]":34j8hdnb]
... Checked the tires - in good shape; however, date stamp is 4207...

Would the # mean 42nd week of 2007?

 

[desertrefugee]

Yep! I have a pair of Metzlers on the CBX with 2006 stamps on them! They're also slated for replacement later this year, but they show no sign of cracking of any kind. The rubber "seems" relatively supple. Fingernail doesn't detect much difference between those and fresh tires in the garage. Just be mindful of the fact that they might be a bit hard, Ernest.

 

[Rednaxs60]

Hear you on the tires. As you mentioned about yours, no signs of cracking and still a good bit of tread left. On these heavier GWs, I'm a fan of a CT on the rear. Be getting the Austone taxi tire when I'm back in Ontario in November. Michelin Commander II on the front, and be using Ride-on Tire Sealant and Balancing formula on the front and probably Counter Act beads on the rear as it is a CT.

So much for the PO being a stickler on maintenance.

Cheers

 

[dan filipi]

I’m on the fence about running tires more than 2-3 years old. When I was a kid we ran old tires with age cracks and never gave it a second thought. They never slid out on me even in the canyons scraping pegs. Granted they were much smaller and lighter bikes with no fairing, but after having the front slip out on me on the 83 dressed when hitting a smal strip of water, I’m not so sure running tires more than a year or 2 old is such a good idea.
I think if you ride these heavy bikes all straight line highway, older tires even with tiny cracks are okay. Just my opinion.