1995 GL1500 SE 20th Anniversary Canadian Edition

[Rednaxs60]

Finally got the 1500 put back together, the installation of the plastics on an older bike can be a chore unto itself. Nothing fits as it did new and have to make sure that wiring and such are out of the way. Had to backtrack several times to get the plastic(s) installed properly. Also using ABS cement on cracks and such to ward off breakage.

Took it out for a road test, primarily because of the front fork rebuild. Before I did the rebuild had some 600 Kms on it so I was familiar with how the suspension was working. Not a lot of life left in the front suspension, even a small bump at speed or when going slow would be a harsh hit, not all the time, but more often than not.

With the fork rebuild, new oil 15 wt, and Progressive springs (new OEM would have improved the front forks significantly as well) the front forks worked significantly well. The PO or the one before him had installed a fork Superbrace that helps as well. I used to watch the front forks to determine the amount of movement when riding but there was very little. Today when watching there was a significant movement in the front forks, lots of absorbing small and larger bumps/road imperfections. Totally different front end. Well worth the investment.

Installing new fork springs is a good investment, and ride quality and bike performance will be improved.

Looking forward to installing the new rear air shocks.

Only item(s) left to do to the front end are brake pads, and wheel bearings. Steering stem bearings will be done down the road.

Now to ride for a few days then onto the rear. Changing FD oil, lube all splines and new shocks as well as refurbishing the air dryer desiccant.

Brake pads will be done all round when these get here.

More to follow. Cheers

 

[Rednaxs60]

Ordered a 90 amp alternator for the 1500, should be here on Tuesday. Did this because of my perusal/readings on the various forums. In concert with this, I have been looking into the alternator and starter wiring.

It's interesting that there is a 55 amp main fuse and the installed OEM alternator size is only 40 amps. To my way of thinking, there should never be an overload issue because of this, and with a 55 amp main fuse, I would have thought Honda would have at least a 55 amp alternator - more likely a 60 amp - installed to provide sufficient power for the 1500. If the electrical system is designed and needs electrical power up to at least 55 amps, a 40 amp alternator will only last so long.

Will be ordering new alternator damper/rubber for install.

I have been looking for a good connection spot to provide a 30 amp circuit for a new accessory fuse block and where to connect up a permanent voltage meter. From the wiring schematics I have and have seen, the alternator output goes directly to the main fuse. I will be looking at this wiring and connecting the new circuit and voltmeter where the alternator output wire connects to the main fuse. The wiring on the 1500 is probably similar to the wiring on my '85 LTD and should be left alone and not have any new load additions.

I need to determine where the alternator sense wire is connected and may need to change this location as well to the input to the main fuse. If the sense wire is connected into the electrical system like it was on my '85 LTD, there could be a wiring loss of up to a volt or so. This voltage loss, if there, causes the alternator regulator to continuously require an alternator amp output higher than required to meet a 14.2 VDC system requirement. Not good for the alternator, or the electrical system.

I mention using the connection to the input of the main fuse as the connection point for all new electrical circuits because this point will now become a distribution junction. 98% of the power generated by the alternator at any given time is used by the bike to power the electrical system. The battery once the engine is started, and the battery has been replenished to a 100% state of charge, only receives a trickle charge, and unless the voltage in the electrical system drops below approximately 12.6 VDC, is a light load on the electrical system.

I will also be looking at a new ground bus as well for new electrical circuits. Have used a fuse block from Eastern Beaver: https://easternbeaver.com/Main/Wiring_K ... /pc-8.html that is a combined power and ground unit. Compact and works well. Has 8 ground connections, 6 switched power circuits and 2 circuits that are live at all times. The unit can be connected such that there are 8 switched circuits by using a small jumper wire. There are other fuse holder configurations such as a 3 Fuseholder for ATM Type Mini Blade Fuses by Delphi (Metripack 280) that I have used for low power circuits as well. I know there are other units out there, but the owner of Eastern Beaver is a Canadian ex-pat as well.Have to get me some more OEM style (Hitachi) connectors before I start any wiring.

Before we get into a discussion regarding connecting new circuits at the battery or not, it is not my preference so I will not be going there. I will be following up on this as I do the maintenance on the 1500.

One item I have moved and it was from a video WingAdmin on GWDocs did of his 1500, is the battery tender connection. I have tucked it into the right trunk pocket under the speaker. Out of the way but easily accessible, and I don't have wiring hanging out spoiling the look of the bike.

Today is a riding day, as is tomorrow. More to follow. Cheers

 

[Rednaxs60]

Popped a fuse today, had no dash light or tail lights. The only reason I could think of was the work I did on the bike over the last few days and this included disturbing the accent LED lights. When I first saw the wiring for these, I took note that this would have to be corrected and today it was. I removed the accent LED lights that were in the middle of the bike. I kept the rotor light ring and the two accent LEDs under the saddlebags, all others are now gone. I now have a fairly unspoiled pallet to which I will add some electrics.

On a maintenance note, new Iridium plugs DPR7EIX-9 at 154949 Kms.

Almost finished base lining the bike. Rear to do now.

Cheers

 

[Rednaxs60]

Out for a short ride today with the Mrs. Had the rear shocks with some 4.0 bar (60 PSI) in the rear shock. Rode well but could tell that I was just about maxed out at times. never bottomed but knew the shock(s) were working. Will be good to get the new Progressive 416 airs on the back. Sonya did comment on the nice ride and asked if the new shocks had been installed yet.

Have the brake pads on hand now, so work schedule for next week is rear shocks, brake pads all round and dryer desiccant refresh.

Have a new drive shaft oil seal on order. Will schedule rear end lube when received.

Will be going to the dark side on this bike. Have sourced an Austone 175R16 out of Ontario that I will get this fall. May do the wheel bearings at this time as well. The web site for the company that supplies the Austone tire in Canada is: https://www.sylmar.ca/#aproposdenous

Cheers

 

[Rednaxs60]

Good couple of work days. Started on the rear of the bike on Sunday. Took a while to take the plastics off, bit different from the 1200. I'm also in no hurry.

Finished up the rear for now. Installed new Progressive 416 series air shocks, refresh of the air dryer desiccant, new brake pads front/rear, and lubed drive shaft.

Surprised that the OEM air shock was as done as it is. I was able to move the shaft back and forth like an acordian without any resistance. Going to take it apart to see what it is made up of.

Here are some pics of the old air shock fully extended and compressed:

Will drain the shock and determine the quantity of oil left in the shock.

The new shocks were a tight fit in the FD and swingarm brackets. The air lines were routed to a place under the seat as per Progressive instructions. #1 indicates the connection of the new air lines to the OEM air pp line. #2 is the 3 way splitter from the air pp to the shocks:

The air shocks are installed with the air connection to the rear.

Have put 2.05 kg/cm2 (same as 2 bar or approximately 29 PSI) in the rear air shocks to test system overnight.

Will finish up the rear tomorrow with new hypoid. Plastics should also be on as well.

Need a new u-joint boot. Will install later when I replace the tires.

Very pleased with progress to date. Looking forward to doing a road test with the new rear shocks.

 

[Rednaxs60]

Success on the rear shock install. Air pressure at 2.05 last night, and at 2.05 this morning. System is tight and functional. Now to put the bike back together and do some riding.

 

[brianinpa]

Hey Ernest... I hate to point out the obvious, but... :useless:

Where is the picture "before"?

 

[Ansimp]

brianinpa » Thu Aug 30, 2018 3:44 am[/url]":2960dbzh]
Hey Ernest... I hate to point out the obvious, but... :useless:

Where is the picture "before"?

+1 :smilie_happy:

 

[Rednaxs60]

Upgraded the headlights to LED, mainly because one side was out. Here's the amazon site: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07CG1Z9X4/ref ... 00_TE_dp_1

 

[dan filipi]

Most all LED’s I see put into standard shells look overly bright and irritating to oncoming vehicles with poor beam control.
Is this one any different?

 

[Rednaxs60]

Will be looking at this this evening when it gets darker. These LEDs are brighter, but a good set of standard H4 halogens are the same price or close to it.

 

[Rednaxs60]

Went in this evening and took the headlight out and proved that the adjusting knob and cable are working. Put the headlight back in and tried to adjust the headlight. Think the left side of the light reflector is not attached anymore and I need to find a new to me headlight. Previous post mentioned the right side but I may be mistaken as the adjusting mechanism is on the left side. Will take the headlight out again and remove the front lens and see what is happening.

Also tried adjusting the windshield securing lever but noticed the right side is looser than the left side. Will have to get in behind the speaker grill cover and check the mechanism.

Also took a page out of Wingadmin's book over on GWDocs and relocated the battery tender connection into the rear right pocket. There was an access for the wiring to fit through. This tucks the wiring away out of sight when not in use:

The PO had this connection located at the front of the seat sticking out.

Cheers

 

[Rednaxs60]

Started prepping my '85 LTD for its next work period so the work on the 1500 is finished for now. Checked the charging system with a battery tender adapter that plugs in like the battery tender. At idle of approximately 850 RPM have a charging rate of 14.2 VDC. Pretty good for idle.

Going to check electrical system to determine what amps are being used where.

 

[slabghost]

14.2 at idle is a bit high. Might want to check the voltage regulator.

 

[Rednaxs60]

Will be doing a small mod the dash to install a voltmeter. Found a thread on GWDocs regarding this. I have also read that the alternator on the 1500 is a weak point, so as part of my maintenance deliberations before I bought the 1500 was to acquire a HO alt for the 1500, and I have it on the shelf for install - need to get new alt dampers.

I have also perused the wiring diagrams and the wiring as installed is not the same as the wiring schematics. The alt connection is to the battery positive terminal, whereas the alt connection in the schematics is to the starter solenoid with a wire to the battery.

I also noted that the wiring schematic for the 1500 charging system is similar to what I installed on my 1200 with the alt conversion in that:

1. There is a 30 amp fuse on the ignition wire.
2. There is a 30 amp fuse on the starer solenoid that protects the battery from a high voltage spike from the alternator.
3. There is a 30 amp fuse on the circuit to the CFI system.
4. The additional accessory fuse block is protected through the relay that is rated at 30/40 amp.

All other circuits on the 1200 are fused as required.

Have been looking for an an additional fuse block for the 1500. Found this one on eBay: https://www.ebay.ca/itm/5-Road-For-The- ... 0005.m1851

Cheers

 

[Rednaxs60]

Did some more work on the bike Sunday, went riding yesterday - bad me. The '85 LTD has the Gr/Gl sensors on the back of the right cylinder head that needs to be removed and tied up out of the way:

You will also notice there is an oil seal in the sensor case. As long as this is not damaged should be good for reuse. It is still available from Honda.

The sensor cam had to be removed first before the sensor case could come off. It is turned by a small nub on the cam shaft:

Took the valve covers off and read the OEM service manual again. There are defoaming spaces and an oil distribution plate that is supposed to be removed. The oil distribution plate in the manual has to be removed to get at one of the cam holder bolts; however, on my '85 the oil distribution plate is designed so that I can get at the cam holder bolt without removing the oil distribution plate:

Since I will not be rebuilding the head in its entirety, I will not be taking the defoaming caps off.

Will probably be replacing the valve cover bolt(s) rubber grommets on install. These small grommets are part of the valve cover sealing arrangement. These grommets get hard and lose the elastic properties required to hold the valve covers firmly in place preventing leaks. I mention this because the valve cover bolts come up hard against the cylinder head. The force exerted by the valve cover bolts is transferred through these rubber grommets to the valve cover. If there is no elasticity left, leaking is a good possibility. Here is a pic:

The leak down test kit came in yesterday. Inexpensive piece of kit at $45.00 CDN, but should give me some good information.

More to follow. Going to be a good project.

 

[Rednaxs60]

Having finished the work on the bike that i set out to do, have just been riding the '95 1500 while I work on my '85 LTD.

Have had a few long rides, solo and two-up and pleasantly surprised with how the bike is operating. The new Progressive air shocks are a stiffer ride, but I find for two-up riding a pressure of 4.4 Kg/cm squared (1 Kg/cm sq is approx 14.3 PSI), and for solo riding approximately 1.8 Kg/cm sq.

Went for a ride up island today and doing highway and a lot of speeds up and down on the road from Coombs to Tofino, The bike averaged 16 Km per litre. Using Imp gal as the conversion, approximately 45 MPG, not bad for a big carbed bike. Dave, Sonya's brother was on his '05 1800 and averaged 50 MPG. Still impressed with mine.

It was a crisp morning so I will have to start looking at wiring for my heated riding gear. Should be able to get that done before end November.

I have noticed that when I want to "jump" on it for passing or such, it is not as fast reacting and crisp in the get up and go department; however, it does a good job considering.

Just a few more thoughts on this procurement.

Cheers

 

[joedrum]

they are the big dog ...sounds like its doing great

 

[Rednaxs60]

Got off the rock yesterday for a ride into the Vancouver, BC area. Had some 1800 parts that were lying around so I found them a good home - no longer have the 1800. It started out dry, but quickly turned into rain, knew this was going to happen. Late afternoon the sun popped out and riding was very enjoyable.

Was curious about the weather envelope on this 1500 because I know the older 1800s were quite good, my '08 was very good. I also know my '85 LTD is good as well.

If I had to rate the weather envelope of the 3 GWs from experience, good/better/best, I would have to go 1500/1200/1800. They're all very close, but need to do a placement. Don't know how the new 1800 stacks up, but from the test ride I did, I think it will not be as good as the previous versions, mentioned this to the dealer and one of these days will take it out in the rain.

Still liking the 1500, ride quality is good, still adjusting the air pressure in the rear Progressive 416 air shocks to find the sweet spot for solo riding. Have it at 2.3 Kg/cm sq presently.

Cheers

 

[Rednaxs60]

Another two up ride yesterday for some 300 Kms. Bike ran well. The cleanliness of the bike was commented on, but I mentioned that you can't be cleaning if you're riding.

Using 4.3 Kg/cm sq air pressure in the rear shocks two up and 2.3/2.2 Kg/cm sq solo. This seems to be the sweet spot for my style of riding.

Sonya had her first glimpse of the new 2018 GW today. Interesting comments from her considering she glazes over whenever I start talking about motorcycles. She picked up on the luggage space, passenger riding position, and style. Mentioned she prefers the look of the 1200/1500 to the new 1800. We also talked about price, and she was surprised at the cost. I did mention some of the chatter from the forums, and she stated that if the bike is what you want - great; however, if it doesn't suit your riding style don't buy it, choose something else - simple strategy.

Cheers