'84 1200 engine for a '82 GW

[slabghost]

Double check your oil level before and after the ride to get an idea of how much is lost if any.

 

[AApple]

canuckxxxx » Wed Apr 19, 2017 7:47 am[/url]":15ka0swh]
I now have a 2' piece of hose going from the crankcase breather to under the bike...

Careful that the end of the hose isn't in front of the rear tire.....if it starts spittin oil out it'll get real exciting real quick! :shock:

 

[canuckxxxx]

Yikes...not a very nice mental image. I don't need that kind of excitement LOL. Actual I have a different plan now. I drilled out he fitting at the AC to 25/32" and hooked it up proper.

 

[canuckxxxx]

image

• canuckxxxx
• Apr 22, 2017

This is a shot of my dry garage floor under the GW after my usual test loop. No oil leaks!! :yahoo: :music2:
The only change I made from when it leaked was to bore out the breather fitting at the air cleaner.

Great call Slabghost. :thanks: :good: k: I never would have thought of crankcase pressure issue do to restricted breathing. :heat:

BTW, I got 35 mpg on this tank of gas.

CGW rocks :music:

 

[canuckxxxx]

My next oil leak project is replacing the rear main seal on my '98 GMC pickup. Anyone have any experience with that.

 

[slabghost]

Should be real easy once you get the driveshaft out. Unless they've made major changes its just pry the old seal out and tap the new one in place. That's transmission. Rear main on the motor is a lot more work. Seal isn't so bad but getting to it can be an all week project. Glad the wing is behaving now. A little more carb tuning should get the mpg up a bit.

 

[canuckxxxx]

One thing I have not liked about the way this 1200 performs is the shifting. More specifically the clutch seems to drag so finding neutral is hard and miss shifts and false neutral are common :Awe: .

I'm pretty sure that the problem is because I have oil building up in the clutch area which the scavenger pump is supposed to get rid of. I have pull the engine a couple of times and had the scavenger pump out and checked it and it seems to pump pretty good. Then I have been disappointed after putting it all back together to find the same problem. I think it is oil buildup because when I pull the engine and take the cover off a lot of oil comes out.

OK so I have it out yet again, took the clutch off and here is the scavenger pump.

image

• canuckxxxx
• Dec 16, 2017

Took the scavenger pump off without taking it apart I put the bottom in a pan with oil and turned it...it pumps even when turned slowly by hand.
So maybe the pump is not the problem. When you look at the hole where the pump goes you see the inside of the crankcase and I think it is below the normal engine oil level.

image

• canuckxxxx
• Dec 16, 2017

On the back of the pump there is an o-ring to seal the pump body into the hole and an oil seal where the oil pump shaft goes through. With the o-ring that was on there I couldn't feel that it was sticking up above the level of the o-ring groove. And the oil seal looks suspect. So now I'm thinking that maybe the pump is pumping OK but there is a lot of oil leaking into the clutch area from the crankcase.

What do you guys think?

image

• canuckxxxx
• Dec 16, 2017

image

• canuckxxxx
• Dec 16, 2017

 

[joedrum]

Got to be something like that ..seems the 1200 in hooch shifted really good

 

[canuckxxxx]

Good to know that good shifting is possible. I bet after it has been sitting for awhile oil in the clutch is the same as the crankcase.

 

[canuckxxxx]

I think I need o-ring #28 and seal #27 :read:

scavenger pump exploded

• canuckxxxx
• Dec 16, 2017

 

[dan filipi]

My 84 engine feels a bit ratchety shifting compared to the last 1100 engine I had in this bike, but neutral is pretty easy to get. Sometimes I have to jerk the clutch a tad then pull in, then it goes right into neutral.

 

[canuckxxxx]

Yes, my 1100 engine shifts nicely and neutral is easy to get into too.

 

[canuckxxxx]

Having thought about it I am thinking that the o-ring and seal would have to leak a lot for the scavenger pump to not be able to keep up. I put the pump back in with old seal and ring and put oil in up to line on dipstick. Leaving it like that for several hours and see how much oil actually gets through.

Another thing I'm thinking might be causing my clutch troubles is that I am using the rear cover from my 1100 on the 1200 so I can still have the cable clutch release. I know the 1200s all use a hydraulic clutch release. Maybe the juice clutch gives more travel or somehow makes it work better.

A simple test that I could have done, but didn't, when the had the 1200 in and operational is to adjust for max release by adjusting out any free play.

 

[julimike54]

Maybe you're onto the issue, the cable throw isn't as far as the hydraulic? Just guessing......

 

[canuckxxxx]

julimike54 » Mon Dec 18, 2017 7:57 am[/url]":1navg0bv]
Maybe you're onto the issue, the cable throw isn't as far as the hydraulic? Just guessing......

So here is a crazy idea: what if I put a 1100 clutch in my 1200? If the clutch and cable actuator are both 1100 then it might work like an 1100.

To this end, I picked up this 1100 engine that apparently has a knock. I figured I would salvage the heads and maybe the clutch.

I will keep you posted.

 

[canuckxxxx]

Another thing I did today is relocate the coolant feed for my single carb manifold. I had it coming off the t-stat like this but found that the temp gauge did not read right if I had the coolant flow reduced.

coolant supply to plenum 1

• canuckxxxx
• Jul 13, 2015

So now I have it coming off the same place as with the 1100...at the rear of the coolant centre section.

image

• canuckxxxx
• Dec 21, 2017

 

[joedrum]

1100 clutch deal won’t work unless you change clutch basket also ...then the sprocket would have to change over too on clutch basket as oil and coolant flow is different on the two motors ....

I like the coolant hook up ....nice work

 

[canuckxxxx]

joedrum » Thu Dec 21, 2017 6:45 pm[/url]":2j978aq2]
1100 clutch deal won’t work unless you change clutch basket also ...then the sprocket would have to change over too on clutch basket as oil and coolant flow is different on the two motors ....

I like the coolant hook up ....nice work

Thanks for the heads-up Joe :thanks: ...I never would have thought of changing the sprockets. I will take the 1100 clutch out tomorrow and post pics.

 

[canuckxxxx]

So here is the back of the 1100 and 1200 clutch baskets showing the sprockets. I didn't count teeth but I measured the diameters: 1100 is 59mm, 1200 is 61mm. The sprockets on the oil pumps are the same for 1100 and 1200. So the 1200 oil and coolant pumps are being driven 3% faster than the 1100 pumps. The sprockets are riveted onto to the clutch baskets so I'm not going to mess with that. I guess I will have to use the 1200 basket, although the 1100 basket slides right on.

I also found that the 1100 friction discs do NOT slide into the 1200 basket. I guess I could use the 1200 FDs and the 1100 steel discs on the 1100 centre section of the clutch.

Any thoughts on this?

 

[canuckxxxx]

Sorry here is picture

IMG 1695

• canuckxxxx
• Dec 22, 2017