coilsmay be faulty .....Is the neon coil pack an alternative

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If crowe will hook the orange wire from the neon coil to the bike's yellow wire, the coils blk wire to the bike's blk/whi wire and then the coil's bro/blu wire to the bike's blu/yel wire it should run provided the ballast is good or has been bypassed.
 
yes mike it will he has no ballist on it so did you hook up the black wire to the black and brown wire ...if you did all the wiring described above will work if not it wont work button out
 
yes I did mike but in general the whole system was way subpar ...keyswitch was bad too ...wiring connection around the baliist was corroded and heat damaged ....with bikes this old ..one thing is mot going to be bad and all others good ...its most likely the worst part ...but other parts as in connection ...coils ...plug wires and ends are useally all need to be brought up to par or new ...the relay is great idea to bypass what the switches handle in heat
 
Good morning ...you guys have all been working on this to help... again thanks..


1. I have bypassed the ballast by connecting the bk & the bk/br wire
2 I have connected the coil as in the Diagram.

I guess I dont see where I went wrong...

I also do not care if I loose the kill switch if that helps.

You wings tell me what to do I will try it ....

As a reminder I have Martek ignition..
 
sheesh those martek iggyes are old ....okay on the maRtEK iggy theres a separate bow that's mounted somewhere .....I have no idea what the wiring colors are and how its hooked up to the wires inside the left side cover that are the yellow and blue and yellow hook ups there and there doulble ends for condenser hook up ....but one of those wires is a power sorce for the martek ignition ...if its been unplugged it will not make spark look at all that and post back
 
Bellboy40 wrote:Martek electronic ignition from Goldwing facts
I believe the way they hooked up was this way:
Black to power, Green to ground, and Yellow and red to the coils..

Ok I will check the wires at the ignition cover..

Should I check the switch for power.. I see 2 screws underneath .. and what should I look for and how to test...

I can get a relay today should I do that or will that make no difference at this point.?

_Thanks _________________
 
Martek manual in our gallery.
gallery/album.php?album_id=1942
Hopefully with that you won't have to rely on what someone "believes" is the correct hookup :roll:
Hope that helps.
 
Thanks Dan..I will look .. have to do some work at home first then work on the preacher..
 
Dan I am sorry I did not know where to put this ... As you can tell I am still researching my off the road situation.There is a photo I will try to load to gallery and post it from there.. If not forgive me for posting here..

I think it might have helped me , not sure yet, but it might help others trying different coils and not overheat older wires.

....It from https://sohc4shop.com/catalog/product_in ... ucts_id=44
For use with DYNA or ACCEL 3-ohm COILS: Reduce load and heat in your stock wiring while increasing your spark plug performance.

This Resistor Pack is used to match low-ohm primary coils to the vintage Honda/Kawasaki/Suzuki/Yamaha bikes with points and coils of (normally) about 4-5 ohms primary impedance.

Technical Details:
The typical vintage Japanese wiring for the Ignition Coils is sized to carry about 3.3 amps of continuous current, while the stock coils draw 2.4 amps on most bikes of the era. The 3-ohm coils from Dyna and ACCEL draw over 4 amps, which heats the stock wiring quite a bit. The wiring connectors and the handlebar RUN-OFF switch slowly grow damage from continuous use at this higher current. This Resistor Pack reduces this current to a safe level (2.8 amps) for the bike's stock wiring, while still allowing for a nearly 3-fold spark voltage at the sparkplugs from using these high-output coils.

The Dyna (Green) coils and ACCEL performance coils have 3-ohm primaries: these require a 1 ohm Resistor Pack to match these bikes' wiring (and charging) systems to those coils.

The Dyna 2.5 ohm ultra-high voltage coils (or 1980 and later Honda coils) require a 2.0 or 2.5 ohm Resistor Pack when used on the SOHC4 motorcycles, depending on the bike: contact [email protected] for more details. Typically, this is only for off-highway applications, as the alternators on these vintage bikes don't support these high-draw 2.5 ohm coils very well.

Shipping: $7.50 in the U.S. and Canada. If the "Postage Machine" overcharges you for (overseas) postage, a refund will return to you after shipping.

Other (custom) resistor ohms values are available on special order: contact [email protected] for details.

NOTE: On the alternator-challenged CB500/550 bikes, this Resistor Pack can allow the rider to use the Dyna 3 ohm coils with either stock points ignition or the Transistorized Ignition. It will not, however, reduce currents enough on this bike to allow for BOTH the Dyna S triggers and the Dyna 3-ohm coils: that is just too much load for the mid-sized Fours to carry. The CB500/550 rider may use EITHER the 3-ohm coils with this Resistor Pack, OR the Dyna S triggers with stock OEM coils: using both will cause electrical overloads and low battery charge problems, due to the smaller alternator output.
 

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Oh boy...ya know maybe c5performance would like to comment on this.
He's got a pretty good understanding of this stuff, way more than me.

Better yet maybe we could get Gary from Power arc to comment.
I don't think he has an account here (yet).
 
Hi wings... I just get home from work It seems I ,never have enough time to look into any further..

Besides I would not know what to do or what to check next...

Should I check power to the start switch,kill switch ? And how would I do it....

Power to ignition ? I don't know much about wiring systems? I did buy an electrical tester, continuity, Ohm

If you can try and help from afar I would appreciate it.. Thanks
 
me too what a nightmare training I went through .....meters are great but in no way actuallty test things under loads so stuff ckeck out on standby waiting to happen like meters tesy but under demand fail to deliver ...separating the iggy fron all the old parts and switches with relay blanket fixing the entire deal ,,,witch is what I did chasing my tail for 3weeks in a circle
 
I have been in the midst of a total home renovation and moving at the same time. Sorry i was not providing any assistance.
Besides, you guys were doing a great job without me.

Up until the fourth page i was following along nicely, then it gets tougher to follow. I have alot of cycles but dont know the Wing as others do.

My Goldwing has the exact same electronic iggy, but i don't feel comfortable explaining how i'd test it. Besides, that wasn't the problem anyway...as usual, it was those pesky coils.

Let me try to recap. Tell me if i screw this up:

You had no spark on rear cyl, and they both use the same coil (and hence the same trigger and wiring).
After changing coils you had spark on all four (so you fixed the issue) but now dont have power unless you hold down the starter button. Thats a new issue in my mind.
Now you are trying to bypass the few items that could be causing this (tracing the path of coil power from the battery to the coils, right?)

The path is Battery===> Ignition switch===> Starter button AND/OR Ballast resistor wire harness===> they meet again at the Kill Button===> and finally reach Coiltown, USA.

Did i get this so far?

I am asking myself these questions (if it were my bike and sitting in front of me)

Did power reach the following:

[ ]Battery
[ ]Ignition switch
[ ]Hot side of starter button
[ ]Hot side of Ballast Resistor
[ ]Negative side of starter button and Ballast Resistor
[ ]Hot side of kill switch
[ ]Negative side of the Kill Switch?
[ ]Coils....did the power make it to the coils?

This is the checklist i use for my own vehicles. At one of these components I would find a lack of 12 volt power.

Using that awesome wire diagram and reading your posts, it appears the issue is before the kill switch.

The starter button AND Ballast resistor both provide power to the kill switch so that seems to be the logical failure point.

When activating the starter button circuit, power is fed to the kill button. When you let off the starter button, the coil would normally still be fed via the wire harness coming from the Ballast resistor.
If the bike loses power to the kill switch unless you hold the starter button...you just solved the mystery...

The ballast resistor and/or it's wire harness has failed and is an open circuit. Testing for voltage on the "negative" side of that harness should back up your theory.

Soooo...i'd make my own (temporary) wiring harness to bypass the Ballast resistor and it's entire wire harness. Once the bike fired up and ran, i'd install a new Ballast resistor, new wires going to and from it as precaution, and go for a nice long ride.

I'm not sure i helped, but you guys confused me on the past two pages, and i believe you already solved the issue. I just tried to make it easier to follow.
 
Hi wings , I have not been able to work on the bike as my father went into the hospital..... I hope he may be out on Monday 7.22.13..... Don't give up on my bike .....just not been able to do anything...

Thanks crowhorse..

PS, I am considering :
1. buying set of Dynatek Coils Coil 3 ohm Dual output Ignition DC1-1
and if it fires up..
THEN

2 replace Martek electronic ignition... with DYNA S ELECTRONIC IGNITION ...

let me know you your thoughts.
 
I think yours is a good plan. If you do go with the dyna S ignition they do use a little more power and have been know to fail on occasion. But all reports I've read have Dyna as tops in customer service.
 
im waiting till meet and greet to have opimion with the c5 buzzing around ...to me this is the biggest thing in in oldswings since ever ....ive got a feeling its going to be huge to oldwing performance and the new tech forum is what were doing here to bring oldwings to higher level on all fronts back and sides middle too ....
 
Optical ignition has been used in many automotive applications without any major issues. The main advantage is accuracy. I believe a natural progression: points, Hall effect and then optical.
 

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