couple 1200 mutts getting doghouse resurection - Enter Jyd

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ok this is front right where head gasket was blown ...there is some scaring cut in light not bad I hope in effect on compression or seating ..best I could do
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this is probably best cylinder front left where all the water was standing ...seepage no coolant
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left back again water no coolant
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right back water and coolant ...seems this is it ...I was somewhat amazed that the coolant mix was way harder than the plain water was ...even tho it look the opposite at first sight ...antifreeze is really corrosive to the steel liners over water
 
That's something, I'd never thought that it would be that way as slick as antifreeze is but I guess it's a chemical witches brew. Looks like they will seal off with the new gaskets though.
 
thanks everyone one the pics do the job justice and look a little better than is id say ...but it all I could do it seemed...git the heads all final done too mounted them without gaskets ....fixing to see how they fit the block went the night gets just right and a light ....problem one tried to put on cam seal over fuel pump gear its bigger got it over but im rather sure it will leak ...so have to come up with solution there......big day today got a lot done IN THE HEAT
 
The hone job looks fine!! I bet it seals really well and will have good compression on all 4. I admire your work ethic, Joe.....whatever it takes, right? I am glad, however, that someone else is getting to share some of the heat we have.... :smilie_happy:
Don't get too hot out there....that could be dangerous. :heat:
 
today after being taken out by timing belts ..even though I was hurt already ....that was it for me ..had to find better way ...and did ...first I toss the so called tension springs away....this is a useless part and and cause all kinds of problems ....when in t1 position up position on pulley is up ...with one bolt out of adjusting side of tensioner out and other loose it can be flip up out of the way and the inside belt will go on easy timed right ...and just lip tensioner in place ...worked perfect and then tighten tensioner in place .......then rotated crank 90degrees ...this puts pistons in all the way around .....turn the pulley on outside belt side to down position with the up mark and the timing mark can be put just right also ....continue to turn crank clockwise to r1 position ...the firt belt will be on timing mark right with up position down ....put outside belt on ...this time it was easier to take out no adjusting bolt out of this tensioner and adjusting side loose to get out of the way to get belt on easy ...put it on ...flip in tensioner and tighten ....ck everything out ...it was timed and tension good ...absolutely no stress ...the springs aint worth anything to me and job was easy ...I wont be getting hurt doing this again ....I bet some think this is crazy to leave out spring ...but I think its crazy to have it there ...someone tell me how you modify compression tester to fit the oldwing head ???? thanks need something simple
 
Joe, how bout drilling the center out of an old spark plug and JB Weld a female to male reducing bushing to the plug that you could screw th compression tester into. Parts= JB weld and one bushing. That's kinda the way I made piston stops cept I welded a bolt into the center of the plug when I used a degree wheel to set the timing on my race cars.
 
I smashed the porcelain and drilled out the old spark plug, then threaded an adapter that fits the compression tester into what was left, then a bunch of flux and solder. Worked for me. JB might be better if you have time to wait.
 
Are you running NGW dpr8ea plugs in the 1200's? I put in d8ea because one source said that's what they used, but the p in dpr stands for projected electrode for the 1200 and with the less hemi-shaped piston of the 1200 I'm thinking it should have it. Curious if that's what you have. More projection is said to give better flame propagation.
 

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