GL1200 Engine Rebuild - Part 4 - Getting to the Road

Help Support ClassicGoldWings:

dan filipi

Well-known member
Staff member
Administrator
Moderator
CGW Supporter
Joined
Dec 3, 2009
Messages
22,098
Reaction score
71
Location
Van Nuys Ca.
My Bike Models
1983 Interstate
2018 KLR 650
2018 BMW S1000 RR
My Bike Logs forum link
https://classicgoldwings.com/forums/dan-filipi.122/
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=220638#p220638:2fsyk1ex said:
Rednaxs60 » Today, 7:28 am[/url]":2fsyk1ex]
It was fine before I started the rebuild. I like simple. I have a few thoughts such as the shift drum should only rotate not move back to front. I will find the issue.
Makes sense. A shim not make it back? Just throwing out ideas, I’ve no idea if there are any shims there to hold a position.
 

Rednaxs60

Well-known member
CGW Supporter
Joined
Dec 25, 2015
Messages
2,471
Reaction score
64
Location
Victoria, BC,
No shims on the shift drum. It is held firmly in place against the support bearing.

Everything seems to be in order. Have been testing the shifting turning the transmission shaft by hand, can't get going very fast - go figure. Have been able to cycle through the gears. Going up into 5th is quite good. Do have the getting into first issue, thinking that you are in first when you downshift from second and you're not. Going up into second from first sometimes didn't work that well before either.

Downshifting from fifth the gears need to catch up with the shift. The gears do move initially but not all the way, then with a few more hand revolutions of the transmission shaft the gear drops into place. You can see this on the external shift linkage where the shift drum stopper arm rotates on the roller stopper. This reminds me of that feeling you get when you're trying to crest a steep hill, you get to the top and you're on the cusp of making it, then you do. This has to be a shaft speed issue.

Dry fit the water pump cover as well and tested the shifting with it attached. Should be good to go.

Thinking that I did not have everything just right when I initially put the engine back together. Found some bolts that were a bit loose as well. Had this thought in my head for a bit. Cleaned all the gasket surfaces, and should have it back in by Friday.
 

Rednaxs60

Well-known member
CGW Supporter
Joined
Dec 25, 2015
Messages
2,471
Reaction score
64
Location
Victoria, BC,
Have been progressing putting the engine back together and installing it in the bike. Need to install rad and add coolant. Should be able to have it fully trialed by end week. Get past this hurdle and it's on to body work and finishing the wiring I want to do. The only issue that I can imagine is the shift drum is work in the detents, find out soon.

Found an OEM service manual specific to the '85 Limited Edition. Have ordered it and looking forward to seeing if there is additional information that I need to use.
 

Rednaxs60

Well-known member
CGW Supporter
Joined
Dec 25, 2015
Messages
2,471
Reaction score
64
Location
Victoria, BC,
Finished buttoning up the engine and connecting everything. Rolled it over with the starter, plugs out, everything good. In plugs, and started just fine. Starts and idles well. Now to get it to move.

Had heard that Honda used to do a marketing ploy with a wine glass full to the brim to demonstrate that these were very smooth engines so I thought I'd do my rendition of what I had heard. Wine glass with water on right cylinder head, engine at idle:
Wine Goblet at Idle.jpg


Tomorrow will tell the tale. Going to give it the gears so to speak. :smilie_happy:

Have one small oil drip, rear cover at the lowest point, very irritating considering new gasket and just put together. Will monitor, but may fix. Did what the service manual mentioned, sealant on engine side of gasket. Note to self, do other side as well.
 

Rednaxs60

Well-known member
CGW Supporter
Joined
Dec 25, 2015
Messages
2,471
Reaction score
64
Location
Victoria, BC,
Just did a shifter trial. We have ignition, and it's a go. Up and down through all 5. Now I can get on with the put together. Been a long road. Cheers

Edit: thinking about the rear case gasket, will be done. Can't go through all this work and have an oil drip. Also thinking about the exhaust headers. These would benefit from a media blast and high temp paint. The only issue is the chrome heat shield(s) connectors are welded to the header and the heat shield brackets are tacked to the connectors. Thinking I will take these to my local welder for some advice. Can use a dremel to release the heat shields, but have to determine how to reconnect after any work is done. Would be nice to clean these up.
 

Rednaxs60

Well-known member
CGW Supporter
Joined
Dec 25, 2015
Messages
2,471
Reaction score
64
Location
Victoria, BC,
Slow start today. Took the exhaust headers off and went to see my local welding guy. We discussed the issue of the chrome heat shields and his determination was that it would be cost prohibitive for him to do the work. I can accept this honesty.

Took some pictures of the exhaust headers:
Exhaust Header 1.jpg
Exhaust Header 2.jpg
Exhaust Header 3.jpg
Have searched forum threads for recommendations, and pics of painting the hearers. Most keep the chrome heat shields on. Do think that a cleanup and painting of these headers would look nice. Know what products have been used from a VHT heat paint, BBQ paint and others.

Looked at the CERAKOTE product line. There is a Glacier Silver product with a temp range of 1800 to 2000 Deg F. and withstands thermal shock say from water with no adverse effects. Here's the web site:https://www.cerakote.com/shop/cerakote-coating/C-7700/cerakote-glacier-silver. Air cured and a one coat application. Dry to touch in 4 hours, fully cured in 120 hours.

CERAKOTE also has a product, less expensive than the Glacier Silver product, Glacier chrome - heat cured. Recommended for exhaust systems. Here's the site:https://www.caswellcanada.ca/CERAKOTE-GLACIER-CHROME.html. Technical data sheet.

Thinking that unless I mentioned the lack of chrome heat shields, no one would notice.

Thinking this may be the way ahead. Comments.
 

dan filipi

Well-known member
Staff member
Administrator
Moderator
CGW Supporter
Joined
Dec 3, 2009
Messages
22,098
Reaction score
71
Location
Van Nuys Ca.
My Bike Models
1983 Interstate
2018 KLR 650
2018 BMW S1000 RR
My Bike Logs forum link
https://classicgoldwings.com/forums/dan-filipi.122/
I'm thinking any paint coating may make the blemishes and road rash stand out more. Maybe not but might be worth shooting them with a cheap can of rattle can in the color you want to get an idea.

I would either leave them as they are or take them off, maybe paint the bare headers.
 

Rednaxs60

Well-known member
CGW Supporter
Joined
Dec 25, 2015
Messages
2,471
Reaction score
64
Location
Victoria, BC,
My idea would be to remove the chrome heat shields and media blast the headers to get a good surface to paint. I would grind the heat shield attach points so that these would not be conspicuous. Looking at what paint would be good to use. The CERAKOTE family of products has some good paint options. The Canadian distributor has 3 black air cure coatings that are ready to paint right out of the container, $60.00 for a half pint. Temp range is in excess of 1000 Deg F. One coat and you're done. I think these coatings go directly over the media blasted surface, no additional prep required - will call distributor to make sure. I'm thinking the look will be quite pleasing considering the headers are mostly out of the way, and hopefully to clean.
 

mcgovern61

Well-known member
Moderator
CGW Supporter
Joined
Dec 3, 2009
Messages
10,757
Reaction score
50
Location
Mantua, New Jersey
I tried reattaching one end of one of the heat shield with a high temperature epoxy. The epoxy dried and the connection let go in one day.
 

Ansimp

Well-known member
CGW Supporter
Joined
Jan 27, 2013
Messages
9,841
Reaction score
8
Location
Brisbane Australia
I know it won’t be as good as the with heat shields on but I would recommend ceramic coating your exhaust headers in silver which improves performance and looks great. If you really wanted the head shields still then maybe you could make them bolt on with captive nuts and still get the headers with modifications ceramic coated. :yes:
 

Rednaxs60

Well-known member
CGW Supporter
Joined
Dec 25, 2015
Messages
2,471
Reaction score
64
Location
Victoria, BC,
Will be contemplating what to do with the headers. Really comes down to the look. Know that most people wire brush these, but I'm thinking the best will be a media blast. While the media blast is being done, I can carry on with other work, and I don't have to clean up afterwards - lots to be said for this.

Brief update. Have removed the engine, replaced the rear cover gasket and have the engine back in the frame. Will finish the install, then trial one more time, and hopefully no oil drips. Once this is successful, finish the rear of the bike, do some wiring and get on with the front of the bike.

There is a growing light at the end of the tunnel. End Feb should be a good timeline to have the bike ready for a road test.

On another note, noticing the rear wheel turns much easier by hand and stays rotating longer than before the engine rebuild. Had to replace the engine output shaft support bearing because it was seized, as was the alternator shaft support bearing. Lots of drag and when let sit for a while - squealing from lack of use. Not good for shaft wear either.

Should have the engine started later on today, or early tomorrow.
 

Rednaxs60

Well-known member
CGW Supporter
Joined
Dec 25, 2015
Messages
2,471
Reaction score
64
Location
Victoria, BC,
Decided not to do any more trials. The transmission was up and down shifting before I took the engine out for the rear cover gasket replacement. Have oil in engine and no oil drip. Started to install everything as final, torque the required items, install additional parts/pieces. Should have fuel pump installed today. Then it's back to the rear of the bike and work forward.

One of the little issues I've had is with crush washers, prefer the copper. These small, inexpensive washers are critical to sealing the various systems, especially a high pressure one such as the fuel injection system. Operates at 30 plus PSI. Nothing more annoying than installing the fuel injection system components and have a fuel spray from one of the crush washers. Recommendation - replace frequently. I am guilty of not doing this, but you can get a crush washer kit from Amazon for as little as $10.00 with a variety of metric crush washers. These kits have the majority of what you will need, but going to Honda for selective ones may be needed.

Crush washers are found on the final drive, engine oil drain plug, coolant drain plug, MC hose connections, hydraulic clutch slave, and brake calipers. You are more likely to change these crush washers if you have the small metric crush washer kit.
 

Rednaxs60

Well-known member
CGW Supporter
Joined
Dec 25, 2015
Messages
2,471
Reaction score
64
Location
Victoria, BC,
Another update.

Have finished with fuel system install. The operating fuel pressure should be around 30 PSI. New crush washers all round. Small items but can only use so often. Have always had issue(s) with sealing all the connections. Had a good look at the sealing surfaces and found that these were not exactly smooth/flat, had a burr or two. The replacement fuel filter(s) sealing surface(s) had burrs and small imperfections that did not allow the crush washers to seal properly. Small file, removed all burrs and smoothed out the surfaces. 22 Nm torque on the fuel filter connections and sealed nicely.

Installed an OEM style fuel pump, keeping the aftermarket one as a spare. Did a system pressure test and no problem getting to 40 PSI static, and no leaks.

Cooling system done and coolant in engine. As mentioned, going to start at the rear of the bike, finish this area and progress forward. Installed the trailer hitch that I use periodically, not for towing but for a rear carrier - a little extra luggage space. Still contemplating the mud flap. Will install what I had with the light bar, but will replace with new down the road.

More to follow. Cheers
 

Rednaxs60

Well-known member
CGW Supporter
Joined
Dec 25, 2015
Messages
2,471
Reaction score
64
Location
Victoria, BC,
Worked on the rear of the bike. Got the mud flap rewired, and installed. Replaced the light bulbs with LEDs, brighter. Have the mud flap on its own circuit, lots of space on the new fuse block. Replacing the 1157 light bulbs as well. Will be ordering some resistors for the light and signal circuits. Should be able to splice in just about anywhere because it is the circuit load that is in question.. Had this issue with the tail lights. Replaced one LED light bulb with a normal one, dash indication went away.

Did a compression test yesterday, engine stone cold, all plugs out and throttle wide open for each cylinder. 160 psi across the board, should be more when engine is operating.

Sneak preview from rear, lights out on left saddlebag, installing new LED bulbs:
Progress 6.jpg


Have been looking for new emblems. Have found the ones used on the front fairing, and the side covers - new. The saddlebag emblems are not that intricate so should be able to make these look very good. The front fender emblem is going to be a bit tricky as is the one on the rear trunk lid - both are quite intricate. Will keep looking for the ones I cannot source at this time. Thinking the cost of the emblem versus the time and effort to try to make an emblem look good is value. Never know when emblems will be available.
 

mcgovern61

Well-known member
Moderator
CGW Supporter
Joined
Dec 3, 2009
Messages
10,757
Reaction score
50
Location
Mantua, New Jersey
Took me almost 2 years to accumulate all new emblems for the Slug. They are getting very rare these days. But, after painting and new OEM replica decals, it was worth it!
 

Rednaxs60

Well-known member
CGW Supporter
Joined
Dec 25, 2015
Messages
2,471
Reaction score
64
Location
Victoria, BC,
In talking to my paint guy this morning. His company has started to sell KBS products. Looked at the clean/blast/seal product line and the high temp coatings. There is a high temp primer that is good as a base for a colour coat, or can be a stand alone product. Good for over 1000 Deg F. Looks promising. The Diamond coat clear is interesting as well. The KBS primer and high temp paints are spray can, I can live with this for the headers. Need to determine how to do an oven heat process. Don't think the Mrs would appreciate me using the oven. Will size the headers and look for a used inexpensive toaster oven - need to heat to 300 Deg F.

Have started to do my looking for NOS emblems. Have ordered the Gold Wing emblems for the side panels. Have leads on the "HONDA" emblem for the front fairing, and the "EAGLE" for the side covers. My parts guy here asked for a list of emblem numbers. Fresh, new sparkly paint job needs new emblems to compliment.
 

Rednaxs60

Well-known member
CGW Supporter
Joined
Dec 25, 2015
Messages
2,471
Reaction score
64
Location
Victoria, BC,
Agree wholeheartedly, especially when you spend a lot of time on the other aspects of the bike to bring it back to its former glory. The pinstripe on my bike is no longer a decal, but I think I did a great job if I don't say so myself. :music: My parts guy here went on the parts locator and found some places in the US that may have the emblems I need. Only emblem he could not identify with a potential source of supply are the saddlebag emblems, but these are the easiest to refurbish. Will be doing some phone calls and emails to ascertain supply.
 

Latest posts

Top