Here she is, I named her, "the Wanderer "

[dan filipi]

Agreed.
Put in with seal and head completely clean and dry is what I do.
I put a thin film of grease on the contact surfaces of the cam, seals, and rockers. Engine Oil will do fine also but definitely not put together dry.

 

[made2care]

chilidawg » October 27th, 2015, 9:18 pm[/url]":2m4hwwh5]
https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/downl ... pics%20016

https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/downl ... pics%20015

These are what mine looked like, back from Tim Griggs. (Griggs Performance Engines, of Spring Texas.)

"Ya get what ya pay for", as my Dad used to say!

https://www.avxseals.com/Shaft-Oil-Seals ... 7x43x9.htm

You'll need 3 if your doing both heads, they are the exact same thing you need.

Only 1 if your only doing the left head, the seals for the GL1100 are listed as obsolete. You don't need to replace the back cap, first off you wont find it, and also it will work again.

They are what I used.

I just checked the bikebandit site and they do have the oil seals for $12 each.

 

[made2care]

made2care » Yesterday, 8:55 pm[/url]":3lr75ocs]

chilidawg » October 27th, 2015, 9:18 pm[/url]":3lr75ocs]
https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/downl ... pics%20016

https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/downl ... pics%20015

These are what mine looked like, back from Tim Griggs. (Griggs Performance Engines, of Spring Texas.)

"Ya get what ya pay for", as my Dad used to say!

https://www.avxseals.com/Shaft-Oil-Seals ... 7x43x9.htm

You'll need 3 if your doing both heads, they are the exact same thing you need.

Only 1 if your only doing the left head, the seals for the GL1100 are listed as obsolete. You don't need to replace the back cap, first off you wont find it, and also it will work again.

They are what I used.

I just checked the bikebandit site and they do have the oil seals for $12 each.

i see what you are saying, you were referring to the cap seal being obsolete. i went with your seals suggestion as they were way cheaper than bikebandit. thanks

 

[chilidawg]

chilidawg » Wed Oct 28, 2015 8:22 am[/url]":3behojx9]

joedrum » Tue Oct 27, 2015 5:29 pm[/url]":3behojx9]
takes two open seals and one cap and seal together deal ..the fuel pump drive side has nothing as it gets its oil from there

You're right Joe.

I used 3 seals because I used 1 for the '75 cams in place of the cap, because I was putting the C5 on the back end of the left head.

And the back of the right head doesn't use a seal because it feeds the fuel pump/tach drive with oil.

So yes, he only needs 2 seals, one for each cam wheel on the front.

In case you missed this

 

[made2care]

Right head is off

 

[Denver]

Looks good to me! :good: :yes:

 

[made2care]

Here's a before and after. Look clean enough?

 

[Denver]

:good: :yes:

 

[made2care]

if you look to the bottom right hole and expand the pic, just to the left of this hole there is a small pit/indention. hopefully the gasket will fill this.

 

[dan filipi]

Yes, looks very good.

 

[made2care]

Here is the before and after of right block

 

[joedrum]

opcorn: nice work ...

 

[Ansimp]

joedrum » Sun Nov 01, 2015 9:20 am[/url]":aj0v57sh]
opcorn: nice work ...

+1 :good:

 

[made2care]

Waiting on seals. Have a little time for cleaning or should I say additional cleaning.

 

[Denver]

Spit & polish, was NEVER my style, :nea: but it looks great,when others do it! :yes: :salute:

 

[bronko37]

Looks like ur starting to have some fun with it now...

Lookin good :music:

 

[dan filipi]

Spray clean the head bolt threads in the block. Carb or brake cleaner spray with a nozzle works good. Blast them with an air nozzle if you have it.
Clean the bolts well also.
Some say to run a tap in the block to chase the threads. I don't think that's needed.

When you go to install, give everything a once over. Make sure the oil feed hole in the block is clear as well as the restrictor piece. That should get new o rings. Make sure to put that in in the right direction.

It's suggested to use Honda moly grease on the bolt threads. I think that's to sell Honda moly, any bearing grease is ok in my opinion. Just cover the threads with a thin film. The idea here is to reduce friction on the threads for a good torque down.
Put grease on the washers both sides.

 

[made2care]

dan filipi » Today, 9:59 am[/url]":l907isza]
Spray clean the head bolt threads in the block. Carb or brake cleaner spray with a nozzle works good. Blast them with an air nozzle if you have it.
Clean the bolts well also.
Some say to run a tap in the block to chase the threads. I don't think that's needed.

When you go to install, give everything a once over. Make sure the oil feed hole in the block is clear as well as the restrictor piece. That should get new o rings. Make sure to put that in in the right direction.

It's suggested to use Honda moly grease on the bolt threads. I think that's to sell Honda moly, any bearing grease is ok in my opinion. Just cover the threads with a thin film. The idea here is to reduce friction on the threads for a good torque down.
Put grease on the washers both sides.

Good info, thanks. I will have more questions the closer I get.

 

[joedrum]

doing good job ...dans post is spot on

 

[made2care]

Just curious on this, still learning. If I am sitting on the bike, the right front cylinder is #1, left front cylinder is #2, Right rear cylinder is #3 and left rear cylinder is #4. When on T1, #3 and 4 are fully in. When on T2 , 3 and 4 are fully out.