Here she is, I named her, "the Wanderer "

[dan filipi]

A lot of that blackness is just discoloration of the aluminum. If you run a new razor blade across the surface and nothing comes off, you're good. I finish it with a green scotch brite pad. Chore boy pad works good too.

 

[made2care]

dan filipi » 3 minutes ago[/url]":2r8sk0z7]
A lot of that blackness is just discoloration of the aluminum. If you run a new razor blade across the surface and nothing comes off, you're good. I finish it with a green scotch brite pad. Chore boy pad works good too.

That's good to know. Thanks

 

[joedrum]

looking good

 

[made2care]

Okay, I dropped off the head with my local mechanic and he will finish cleaning it up. He will also install the new valve seals since I don't have the tools..will send a pic when it comes back.

 

[julimike54]

Are you only doing 1 head? or did you mean heads?

 

[made2care]

I'm doing both heads. Also, I realize there is always a debate when choosing head gaskets. I decided to go with the Athena kit, hope it works.

 

[joedrum]

sounds like great plan

 

[made2care]

Here's a pic of the head back from mechanic. He wrote some numbers and told me to check the tolerance in the book but he thought it would be okay. Charged me $50 to clean it and change the valve seals. He did mention I will have to get new cam seals.

 

[made2care]

how many (cam) oil seals do I get. bikebandit microfiche only show an oil seal on one end of the cam by the pulley. the back end shows a cap, or is there a seal there. Just need to know how many total for both heads.

 

[slabghost]

Left head has a cap at the rear and right head has the tach drive and fuel pump. There is not a lot of pressure in the heads so the seals rarely go bad. I could be wrong but I'm fairly sure there are just the two behind the pullies needed.

 

[joedrum]

takes two open seals and one cap and seal together deal ..the fuel pump drive side has nothing as it gets its oil from there

 

[chilidawg]

download/file.php?id=7912&mode=view/Changing%20out%20camshafts,%20%2782%27s%20for%20%2777%27s%20-%20New%20cellphone%20pics%20016

download/file.php?id=7911&mode=view/Changing%20out%20camshafts,%20%2782%27s%20for%20%2777%27s%20-%20New%20cellphone%20pics%20015

These are what mine looked like, back from Tim Griggs. (Griggs Performance Engines, of Spring Texas.)

"Ya get what ya pay for", as my Dad used to say!

https://www.avxseals.com/Shaft-Oil-Seals ... 7x43x9.htm

You'll need 3 if your doing both heads, they are the exact same thing you need.

Only 1 if your only doing the left head, the seals for the GL1100 are listed as obsolete. You don't need to replace the back cap, first off you wont find it, and also it will work again.

They are what I used.

 

[slabghost]

Those numbers on the head bother me. I presume that indicates low spots. If it does I suggest you read the procedures used in 5150jims thread. Blown head gasket again fixed!

 

[bronko37]

I agree V, if those are low spots you will be destined to do this job a second time without fixing that. Can be done reletively easily with a nice new mill file. I good large one will ensure the file does not bend upon repairing those heads.

 

[joedrum]

ok ...lets not get to far here on things ....i doutb the head is going to fail ...i always put head on after head and block have been prepped with no gasket usually at night ...and with pin light in plug hole see if there is any problem between surfaces ....a lot of times the block is not flat either ...and it the heads that conform to it ....hmmm everyone understands that ...i know its hard when it me typing my vocabulary ...LOL....

 

[bronko37]

joedrum » Wed Oct 28, 2015 8:33 am[/url]":2gspecxb]
ok ...lets not get to far here on things ....i doutb the head is going to fail ...i always put head on after head and block have been prepped with no gasket usually at night ...and with pin light in plug hole see if there is any problem between surfaces ....a lot of times the block is not flat either ...and it the heads that conform to it ....hmmm everyone understands that ...i know its hard when it me typing my vocabulary ...LOL....

Good point Joe,

Another thing you could try is some high spot bluing to check contact between the mating surfaces. Although, if they are only off a small amount the gasket will conform to that.

 

[dan filipi]

.004 is a very small amount. The allowance is in the manual.
If concerned, the machinist should be able to surface it.

 

[chilidawg]

joedrum » Tue Oct 27, 2015 5:29 pm[/url]":3hzbtvla]
takes two open seals and one cap and seal together deal ..the fuel pump drive side has nothing as it gets its oil from there

You're right Joe.

I used 3 seals because I used for the '75 cams in place of the cap, because I was putting the C5 on the back end of the left head.

And the back of the right head doesn't use a seal because it feeds the fuel pump/tach drive with oil.

So yes, he only needs 2 seals, one for each cam wheel on the front.

 

[made2care]

dan filipi » Today, 9:12 am[/url]":3gmw4g39]
.004 is a very small amount. The allowance is in the manual.
If concerned, the machinist should be able to surface it.

Mechanic said it should be okay. Now i still need to remove right head and have him clean and check that one.
Still need to order the 2 seals and i believe i will also use a very small amount of sealer when installing those?

 

[slabghost]

no sealer should be needed installing those seals.