NCScooter's 1000 build

[slabghost]

Check the trouble shooting section of your manual.

 

[NCScooter]

The dang thing ain't mentioned in my manual, but here is a pretty complete treatment of the subject---> https://www.ngwclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=15432
I bypassed it and now my brake light works w/ the rear brake, not the front( rear pedal may have been stuck on, is there a spring that returns the pedal besides the MC spring?) Still don't have any where near 12 v on the wires that seem to be switched by the bar headlight switch and the wires actually in the sheath coming from the bar with the correct colors have no current at all. I'm gonna buy some flashlights.

 

[slabghost]

NCScooter » Sun Jul 14, 2013 9:20 pm[/url]":2wg0uxpx]The dang thing ain't mentioned in my manual, but here is a pretty complete treatment of the subject---> https://www.ngwclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=15432
I bypassed it and now my brake light works w/ the rear brake, not the front( rear pedal may have been stuck on, is there a spring that returns the pedal besides the MC spring?) Still don't have any where near 12 v on the wires that seem to be switched by the bar headlight switch and the wires actually in the sheath coming from the bar with the correct colors have no current at all. I'm gonna buy some flashlights.

sure easier than fixing wires! :smilie_happy: Might want a new roll of duct tape too. :smilie_happy:

 

[NCScooter]

Here I am. Put about 50 miles on the bike today. I did bypass the reserve unit, all that seems to have accomplished is turning out all the idiot lights. Before, the neutral light was on constantly (is that the wire that runs down the front of the engine and underneath?), "tail" was on(I think the brake was stuck on also) and the hi beam light was on no matter. Nothing but the turn indicator is working now.
A guy with a candle would be brighter than my headlight. I've ordered a halogen replacement, I hope that fixes it. I've cleaned all the switches, I may need a new lo/hi switch. It appears the contact from the power in for the hi is almost worn off. Odd since the other contacts have a lot of meat on them. Any inexpensive & reliable suggestions? We'll see how the new light works. I ordered a pair of 7" auto headlights https://www.ebay.com/itm/230969916894?ss ... 1497.l2649 , I'll let you know.

On another front, the bike stuttered when starting from a dead start (1000- 2000 rpm) then seemed to run fine. Ran 70 for 2-3 miles. I could smell gas when I came to a stop(even before running at speed.) Do I need to rebuild the carbs? If so I'll have plenty more questions. I didn't see any gas coming out of the pump that I replaced or anywhere else for that matter. I'll take all the free advice I can afford! ! !

 

[slabghost]

I'd bet with your electrical troubles your ignition is weak also which would give the stumble at start and gas smell. Clean and tighten every electrical connection you can find. Sealing with dielectric grease or vaseline will help prevent corrosion. You will do your bike and yourself a world of good getting full power to all the circuits.

 

[NCScooter]

slabghost » Thu Jul 18, 2013 10:46 pm[/url]":1yq8pnss]I'd bet with your electrical troubles your ignition is weak also which would give the stumble at start and gas smell. Clean and tighten every electrical connection you can find. Sealing with dielectric grease or vaseline will help prevent corrosion. You will do your bike and yourself a world of good getting full power to all the circuits.

Should I hook the RLU back up?

 

[slabghost]

I'd leave that bypassed forever if it were my bike.

 

[Ansimp]

HID is the only way to go!! :yes:

 

[NCScooter]

Ansimp » Fri Jul 19, 2013 1:12 am[/url]":je83kf14]
HID is the only way to go!! :yes:

There is a difference between halogen and HID, right? HID has a ballast, no? I didn't see an HID that had a sealed beam substitute/conversion. Gonna start w/ this.

 

[dan filipi]

Yes hid uses a ballast, no ballast on a halogen.

 

[Ansimp]

Here is the link to the HID light that I am currently using in RED
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-Motor ... 5876173%26

 

[dan filipi]

Ansimp » Sat Jul 20, 2013 7:08 am[/url]":35x8a5rj]
Here is the link to the HID light that I am currently using in RED
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-Motor ... 5876173%26

I see that one doesn't have the shield on the bulb that flattens the beam like the one I used....

What I saw when comparing them with and without the shield I think it's worth paying more for it to get the shield...because it directs the light where you need it instead of mass flood of uncontrolled light shining the trees and oncoming traffic, and it directs the light farther forward.

without shield

1 no cover low on door

• dan filipi
• Dec 23, 2012

Low beam shining on my white garage door, No deflector on the bulb

with shield

5 cover on low on door

• dan filipi
• Dec 23, 2012

Low beam shining on my white garage door, WITH deflector on the bulb

without shield

3 no cover low down alley

• dan filipi
• Dec 23, 2012

Low beam shining down a dark alley, No deflector on the bulb

with shield

7 cover on low down alley

• dan filipi
• Dec 23, 2012

Low beam shining down a dark alley, WITH deflector on the bulb

My gallery album with all the pics of my comparison.....gallery/album.php?album_id=1825

 

[Ansimp]

I am not sure Dan but some of the early HIDs used to have the shield like that yours and it moved to provide a high low feature. I have seen quite a few of that type fail as the mechanism was not that robust. In the CBR I don't have any problems with the cut of the light but that may be because of the headlight design. A standard H4 bulb doesn't have a shield. In real world usage I am very happy with this light and am only running one atm but I will soon add a second one into REDs headlight enclosure. I will admit it is really bright and not that friendly to oncoming traffic (6000k is really bright maybe 4300k would be more incandescent like) but once you flash high beam they realise you are only on low beam :yes:

 

[dan filipi]

Ansimp » Sat Jul 20, 2013 2:25 pm[/url]":24e70ydl]
I am not sure Dan but some of the early HIDs used to have the shield like that yours and it moved to provide a high low feature. I have seen quite a few of that type fail as the mechanism was not that robust. In the CBR I don't have any problems with the cut of the light but that may be because of the headlight design. A standard H4 bulb doesn't have a shield. In real world usage I am very happy with this light and am only running one atm but I will soon add a second one into REDs headlight enclosure. I will admit it is really bright and not that friendly to oncoming traffic (6000k is really bright maybe 4300k would be more incandescent like) but once you flash high beam they realise you are only on low beam :yes:

Yes the shield provides the high/low and it's easy to see in my pics how much better the beam is with it than without it.
I see plenty of bikes with hid of bad design around here and it's very irritating.

 

[NCScooter]

Right now I have a sealed beam, uh, well it's really a paper-weight. I could not find an HID set-up that included the can/lens (to use the house electrician's term) conversion that I needed. If the halogen set-up is not good enough, I'll consider the HID. I'm also gonna follow slabghost's suggestion (post 48) of checking, cleaning and sealing every electrical connection from the battery outward. I still have not fixed the 7v regulator. I did replace the thermo fan switch, and it was a lot harder to do than to read about. I ended up hooking 2" leads to it (knew I wouldn't get my hands in there after installation) then putting a 1/2" or so diameter piece of tubing over the top of it to get the thing started into its hole, much as you might use a chunk of fuel line to get a spark plug started in a hard to reach head. Shoulda taken a picture, but I was quite frustrated at the time. High temps and humidity didn't help. Fan has not come on since, I'm hoping I have it done right. Polarity of the 2 wires shouldn't matter since heat makes the switch close, then electrons flow through, right? Or am I delusional? (About this?) :smilie_happy:

 

[slabghost]

Wait. Two wires I think it the temp sending unit not fan switch. There it might make a difference as to which wires go where. Fan switch should just ground the fan to come on.

 

[NCScooter]

slabghost » Sat Jul 20, 2013 7:41 pm[/url]":2nu92to6]
Wait. Two wires I think it the temp sending unit not fan switch. There it might make a difference as to which wires go where. Fan switch should just ground the fan to come on.

The fan ran constantly, I unplugged it, it stopped, plugged in, started. Also was as illustrated in my manual.

 

[NCScooter]

Been busy on another project, it's over, I am ready to work on the electrical. First I found this>

https://craigvetter.com/images/Vetter%20 ... GL1000.pdf

which says the hinge pins should be removed from the side covers. I see they don't open when the fairing is on, do you leave the pins out all the time, do those hand bolts at the top hold the side covers in place whilst traveling?

I pulled my diodes, they all looked and acted identically. No continuity in one direction then in the other direction the resistance would go down to 40 or so (one of them went down to 9 ohms) then back up to infinity. Is this correct? There is no mention of the diodes in my clymer manual. My ability w/ electricity is limited, I could wire a lamp or a house, but not a bike, apparently. Thanks gentlemen, and ladies too, if y'all can help.

 

[Ansimp]

I never really understood what you were hoping to discover about your diodes. They are really robust and usually if they fail no circuit passes through them so there isn't any confusion about whether they are faulty or not. If the one way aspect had failed (which I have not experienced) then there would be some unusual behaviour of the circuit.

 

[NCScooter]

I'm in denial about obsessing on my diodes! That's my first mention of them I believe, I didn't know they were "robust," but thank you. They were easy to access and according to this>>> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qSDRsz5-t7I <<< they are fine. What about the hinge pins? Thanks.