NCScooter's 1000 build

[joedrum]

sheesh I really don't know much tony but hear say but I think the mofset one is the one where I heard it was worst on stator ...I have no idea if its true just what I read

 

[ekvh]

I have one from an 85 Magna on mine. Works fine. One of the best upgrades I've seen is a relay for the black sense wire. On our bikes the sense wire is from the ignition switches and back to the regulator. It can easily lose a volt through connections, so a relay that connects that same black wire from ignition to the battery gives the regulator the true battery condition and charges it accordingly. Without the relay mine would charge at 14.5-14.8 or so at 3500 rpm. With the relay it charges at 13.6-13.9. This helps from cooking the water out of the battery.

 

[joedrum]

wow that sounds really good eric ....hmmmmmmm

 

[dan filipi]

ekvh » Thu Aug 01, 2013 4:35 am[/url]":13bmsfuo]
I have one from an 85 Magna on mine. Works fine. One of the best upgrades I've seen is a relay for the black sense wire. On our bikes the sense wire is from the ignition switches and back to the regulator. It can easily lose a volt through connections, so a relay that connects that same black wire from ignition to the battery gives the regulator the true battery condition and charges it accordingly. Without the relay mine would charge at 14.5-14.8 or so at 3500 rpm. With the relay it charges at 13.6-13.9. This helps from cooking the water out of the battery.

Hmm, 14.5 to 14.8 is where it should be though, I understand that to be ideal :headscratch:

 

[ekvh]

14.8 to a battery that's already 13 is too much, I think. I'm thinking that's why we always add water. It will still compensate when additional load is added, hi beam. That is, it will drop, bump up into the 14's and settle back in to high 13's. My electrical expertise.................isn't. The site (Saunders) I got the mod from explained it as above, that the 14.8 was what the voltage regulator reads through the switches, but the battery is really at around 13 volts. Having the regulator read actual battery voltage has the regulator charge the battery according to its real needs.

One more time, for clarity: My electrical expertise.................isn't.

 

[joedrum]

so it sounds like you could go from my iggy relay battery wire after relay to regulator maybe to do the same thing ....without adding another relay ??????...It would be nice to have charging system totally separate of Honda wiring

 

[Ansimp]

Anything above 13.5 volts is charging your battery. Above 14 volts in a warm climate the battery is sulphating and producing hydrogen and losing fluid. Ideally the charging system would regulate to a lower voltage than what it does but as the output current is not that great the voltage has been set higher to compensate.

 

[NCScooter]

joedrum » Thu Aug 01, 2013 7:24 am[/url]":c0a1r9ob]
sheesh I really don't know much tony but hear say but I think the mofset one is the one where I heard it was worst on stator ...I have no idea if its true just what I read

Y'all are all over this, thanks. I think the stator worries occurred when this system was new and a bunch of cbr1000s were recalled and the regulators and stators replaced. From what I read, the stators were actually bad to start with. This relay that y'all are speaking of, is it a diode (one way flow?) I see the black wire, but isn't that gonna be out of bounds since I'm pulling that old regulator? Please unconfuse me (on this issue, I know y'all ain't shrinks :smilie_happy: ) Speaking of voltages, my clymer says it should be no higher than 14.5. A new "12v" battery should charge to ~13.25 v. I've heard that <12 and the battery is shot.

 

[Ansimp]

The relay should be used to improve the voltage at the sense wire and the coils. If I do this mod I prefer to break in to the ignition output of the ignition switch so that everything down the line has maximum voltage. If done this way you still have the potential for reduced voltage at the coils possibly caused by the kill switch. Normally the kill switch doesn't give that many problems like the ignition switch which carries the majority of the current of the bike. If you do an HID conversion that is wired from the battery you take the headlight current away from the ignition switch on bikes that have the headlight through ignition.

 

[NCScooter]

Excuse my ignorance, but when I go in the auto parts store and ask for a relay, what am I supposed to get?

 

[Ansimp]

Google

 

[NCScooter]

I've just reviewed the last couple pages dealing with my electrical woes and I thank y'all, I've done all that you suggest. Waiting on new regulator. Still have signal light/brake light malfunction, doesn't seem to be intermittent anymore. Studied up on relays, bought one and played with it. There is a voltage drop across the switched terminals. Still don't really understand how to do the wiring modification Eric mentions. He references Saunders, could you post a link? :help: Is my signal light problem gonna resolve with a better regulator? Will my dogs learn to fetch? Stay tuned. . .

JJSphinx

• NCScooter
• Aug 2, 2013

 

[pidjones]

Steve Saunders' www.goldwingfacts.com site has some great, helpful folks on it.

Sent from my LePanII using Tapatalk 2

 

[ekvh]

Sorry ncscooter, I hadn't read this post. I hooked mine up again last night. I have five pole relays, but don't use 87a. I will go and check what I did. I believe 30 is from the battery. I used one of the two red wires from the solenoid. 85 is ground. When the ignition is turned it goes to 86 and energizes the coil because 85 is ground. This magnet now pulls the 30 from 87a, which has nothing connected, over to 87 which goes to the regulator's black wire. The regulator now sees the actual battery voltage instead of the voltage and its losses through the ignition and associated wiring.

Here's the diagram I used from glhonda at Saunders:

He doesn't have the numbers on his diagram. Here's his thread:https://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums/2-goldwing-technical-forum/375622-voltmeter-reads-too-low.html

 

[NCScooter]

ekvh » Sat Aug 03, 2013 9:07 am[/url]":el1c31wa]
Sorry ncscooter, I hadn't read this post. I hooked mine up again last night. I have five pole relays, but don't use 87a. I will go and check what I did. I believe 30 is from the battery. I used one of the two red wires from the solenoid. 85 is ground. When the ignition is turned it goes to 86 and energizes the coil because 85 is ground. This magnet now pulls the 30 from 87a, which has nothing connected, over to 87 which goes to the regulator's black wire. The regulator now sees the actual battery voltage instead of the voltage and its losses through the ignition and associated wiring.

Here's the diagram I used from glhonda at Saunders:

He doesn't have the numbers on his diagram. Here's his thread:https://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums/2-goldwing-technical-forum/375622-voltmeter-reads-too-low.html

Thanks so much. I don't think the regulator I ordered has the black wire, but I'll see, and I'll muddle through. After studying a little, I see your point, sort of. Thanks again.

 

[NCScooter]

NCScooter » Sat Aug 03, 2013 4:01 pm[/url]":33bjcg40]

ekvh » Sat Aug 03, 2013 9:07 am[/url]":33bjcg40]
Sorry ncscooter, I hadn't read this post. I hooked mine up again last night. I have five pole relays, but don't use 87a. I will go and check what I did. I believe 30 is from the battery. I used one of the two red wires from the solenoid. 85 is ground. When the ignition is turned it goes to 86 and energizes the coil because 85 is ground. This magnet now pulls the 30 from 87a, which has nothing connected, over to 87 which goes to the regulator's black wire. The regulator now sees the actual battery voltage instead of the voltage and its losses through the ignition and associated wiring.

Here's the diagram I used from glhonda at Saunders:

He doesn't have the numbers on his diagram. Here's his thread:https://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums/2-goldwing-technical-forum/375622-voltmeter-reads-too-low.html

Thanks so much. I don't think the regulator I ordered has the black wire, but I'll see, and I'll muddle through. After studying a little, I see your point, sort of. Thanks again. You don't need to go thru your bikes wiring, I now understand how relays work. Appreciate it.

 

[ekvh]

The black wire is called he sense wire. It's the input the regulator uses to send extra juice to the battery or dump it to ground. Let me tell you how much I really know about electricals. Okay, I'm done. Maybe someone else will chime in if I'm a little off.

 

[NCScooter]

After further investigation, the regulator you have (and maybe I should have got) has something called a "sense" pin or where the black wire you speak of feeds back to the regulator. The regulator I have ordered does not have this feature, it has 3 yeller wires for the alternator stator and 1 red and 1 green comparable to the 2 red and 2 green coming from the original rectifier. On the original 77 gl 1000 separate regulator, there is a green ground wire, a yeller wire from the stator supplying 20-70 Vac and the black wire which is DC output. What leads me to believe my reg is toast is my charging voltage is too high and voltage other places is very unsteady at constant RPM. When I get the new reg/rect (below) I'll let you know how it goes.

rect&regcbr1000

• NCScooter
• Aug 3, 2013

 

[Ansimp]

Your new reg doesn't sense wire as it just uses the battery voltage. The sense wire can provide higher voltage as the load through the ignition circuit increases. The disadvantage is if you have a weak ignition circuit ( low voltage on a 30+ year old system) you can overcharge the battery and ruin it.

 

[NCScooter]

As I said, I might've jumped the gun on getting the regulator that I got. I don't even have a radio so I don't have a lot of current demand. Hopefully I'll get "buy" with what I get. I was reading another thread about the front brake switch (> viewtopic.php?f=23&t=6427 <) since I have my turn signal/brake light problem. I had an "AHA" moment from post #4 (thanks Steve 83.) After looking at my wiring diagram for the umpteenth time, I went and jumped from the battery to the fuse (bypassing my regulator) and voila the signals and brake lights work. I am a hopin' the new regulator is the great panacea that I dream it is. I do have to keep my signature quote in mind. :smilie_happy: