NCScooter's 1000 build

[Ansimp]

My bad, seems like they are cropping up in quite a few posts. Sorry I can't help with the hinge pins, pretty sure there is no DC in them

 

[pidjones]

Yes, you must leave the hinge pins out and remove instead of tilt open the faux tank sides. The 1000 was not designed for fairings.

Sent from my LePanII using Tapatalk 2

 

[NCScooter]

Our next question comes from an innocent ignoramus in magnificent Hope Mills---- When I bypassed my reserve lighting unit (RLU) I lost all the idiot lights (hi beam, tail, neutral-I think the oil press. is burnt out) so I have plugged it back in. With it plugged in, I have the same low voltage on the headlight wires, in other words, no worse. I know there is strong opinion to bypass it here, but do you lose those idiot lights when you by-pass or is there other effed :sensored: up things going on in that spaghetti of wires down there? :shock:

 

[Ansimp]

It sounds like you have low voltage or capacity and as soon as you put the extra load of the RLU you can really notice it. Check all main connections, charging output and ignition switch.Good Luck :yes:
Also if the RLU has a serious short that could be the current draw, feel the RLU it should be getting warm/hot if that is the case

 

[NCScooter]

I have low voltage going to hi/lo switch, it is the same (~11.5v) whether the RLU is plugged in or by-passed. Charging voltage at battery is fine, increases to ~ 15v @ 4k rpm. In the process of looking at all the connections on the bike, cleaning and applying dielectric greez to them.

 

[joedrum]

sounds good

 

[NCScooter]

Cleaned a bunch of connectors, discovered a blown 5 amp fuse, replaced and voila, idiot lights now work. With the bike running, the lo beam wire (white from the handlebars) has voltage that jumps all around on my multimeter. Dimly lights head light. Bike off, key on, also dim bulb. I can jump from the battery all the way back to one side of the 10 amp fuse (fuse removed) and get a bright bulb, hi- beam works this way as well. I guess my problem (well, this one :smilie_happy: ) is either ignition switch, regulator, rectifier, or stator. As I said before, bike seems to charge the battery fine. More tomorrow. I have lost turn signals and brake light, also; the tail lights still light. Measured the voltage back there and it was low - 11.6v, didn't check to see if it jumped around w/ bike running, should have. Could I have messed up the turn signals when I fiddled with the flasher, cleaning its contacts? Checked tail bulb, both filaments show continuity. These difficulties occur whether or not the RLU is bypassed or hooked up.

 

[NCScooter]

Ansimp » Sun Jul 28, 2013 11:50 pm[/url]":3m211joh]
My bad, seems like they are cropping up in quite a few posts. Sorry I can't help with the hinge pins, pretty sure there is no DC in them

I guess I'm kinda thick, couldn't figure out what DC was. I get it now, no current. DOH! :smilie_happy:

Took the rectifier out and tested per Clymer, it seems OK. The stator was suppose to have 1.1 ohms between yellow wires, it was 0.7; does anyone know if that's ok? Of course, I'm getting voltage when the bike is running and the battery is charging so I believe those 2 things are workin'. The regulator, well that's another question. At low (idle) rpm the voltage jumps all around ~13 then 19 then 4 then so on, but as the rpms climb it goes to 15.2 and stays there (this is all at the battery.) I accidentally left the regulator unplugged and the voltage behavior (behaviour for those across the pond) was the same. Does this mean bad regulator? Clymer says the charging voltage should peak at 14.5v. I've cleaned all the connections I can see on this flippin' machine and still have a very dim Headlight. I also have gremlins. The brake and turn signals worked first thing this am. Then they didn't. Then they did. Puzzling. Have not moved the bike, but of course, I've been wigglin' the bejeebers out of the wires. Some help or advice would be appreciated. Good advice even more so. In posts 26-36 of this thread, y'all were trying to help me find a "7v regulator" on this bike. The thing we decided on is actually a resistor box that is part of the RLU. There is no 7v regulator on this bike. My gas gauge is reading full now and the Temp gauge is working. Probably a result of replacing the burnt out fuse. That same fuse burnt again today, I think I applied current to the wrong wire while I was messing around. Have to keep an eye on it.

 

[dan filipi]

Wow, with stuff turning off and on like this you must be going crazy trying to sort this out.

I'd back up and take one thing at a time.
My first step would be to sort out that charging voltage. That high will ruin the battery and who knows what it might do to the RLU, and flakey connections, shorts or loosing grounds could maybe backfeed and throw off your readings.

Simplest way I know is to take everything else out of the equation.
I'm not sure but I think just pulling all of the fuses except for any needed to run would do this.
In fact I don't think ANY fuses are needed to run.

Trace each charging circuit wire, clean and secure connections, then go from there.

 

[NCScooter]

dan filipi » Wed Jul 31, 2013 4:27 pm[/url]":329izo1w]
Wow, with stuff turning off and on like this you must be going crazy trying to sort this out.

I'd back up and take one thing at a time.
My first step would be to sort out that charging voltage. That high will ruin the battery and who knows what it might do to the RLU, and flakey connections, shorts or loosing grounds could maybe backfeed and throw off your readings.

Simplest way I know is to take everything else out of the equation.
I'm not sure but I think just pulling all of the fuses except for any needed to run would do this.
In fact I don't think ANY fuses are needed to run.

Trace each charging circuit wire, clean and secure connections, then go from there.

I've done traced and cleaned 'em, I'll try taking out all the fuses after dinner. I'm thinking regulator after perusing some other webernetter spots.

 

[joedrum]

on hooch in the wiring harnest under the black wrap one of the stator wires is spliced connected to ruguator and rectifier both the back dowon wiring harnest not showing any signs of there being a joint there ...that was what was ultimately what helped to fix my charging and power problems on hooch

 

[NCScooter]

joedrum » Wed Jul 31, 2013 5:39 pm[/url]":36pexg96]
on hooch in the wiring harness under the black wrap one of the stator wires is spliced connected to regulator and rectifier both back down wiring harness not showing any signs of there being a joint there ...that was what was ultimately what helped to fix my charging and power problems on hooch

I see that on the wiring diagram, I'll check that in the morning. However, I think I misspoke earlier --- with the regulator plugged in, my voltage at the battery is 15.2 or so, w/o the regulator it goes higher ~17 and wobbly. To me that means the regulator is working, just not well. Looked on NGW, I saw this --> https://www.ngwclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=26511 <-- Which is a regulator/rectifier combo that can provide more amps. Has anyone here used a CBR1000 or 600 regulator?

 

[dan filipi]

I haven't tried it but I don't think it will pull more amps out of something that just isn't there to pull from.
A lot of these ideas come and go. I think this is a worthwhile conversion but claims get made without actually testing to back them up.

Somebody needs to do a before and after test by loading the system to verify if it can increase output.

 

[NCScooter]

dan filipi » Wed Jul 31, 2013 9:54 pm[/url]":1owexhh9]
I haven't tried it but I don't think it will pull more amps out of something that just isn't there to pull from.
A lot of these ideas come and go. I think this is a worthwhile conversion but claims get made without actually testing to back them up.

Somebody needs to do a before and after test by loading the system to verify if it can increase output.

I won't be able to do this verification since I believe my reg is toast. It's due to arrive the second week of August from far-away Singapore, I'll let you know how it goes. Looks like you just unplug the old one. We'll see. Meantime I'll try to chase down my turn signal/brakelight problem.

 

[joedrum]

im not sure but if its one of those deals that don't have heat sink it cause it keeps the heat in stator and is actually bad for it ... at first they were claiming it only charged when call on ...instead of full output all the time ...that simply wasn't true ....not sure if this is the same mod though as im speaking of

 

[NCScooter]

It's got fins on it. At least 3 folks on the ngw site have done it, no notice of failures.

 

[joedrum]

okay that sounds good then ...I wasnt sure at all like dan said there really a lot of things out there being tried

 

[Ansimp]

Hopefully I will let you know soon as I have I beleive a Mofset one waiting for me at Kim's place.

 

[dan filipi]

Well the gains of a mosfet regulator are intriguing.

My main concern is, like with matching coils to ignition components, I don't fully understand what's going on in the original regulator and what's different with the mosfet regulator.
True mosfet seems better but I'm nervous putting one on without understanding the risk if any, especially before a long trip.

 

[Ansimp]

Again it is newer technology and hopefully better, if there isn't any flow path there can't be any current and therefore hardly any heat.