Rebuild '82 Standard Wire Harness and Fuse Box

[mcgovern61]

Looks like I may not have to add a new pressure switch after all! The current low oil light is operated by a pressure switch that opens the circuit (turning the light off). When the engine is off, the light comes on since there is less than 2 lbs of oil pressure. When the light is on, it is a 12 VDC circuit.

The 1200 fuse/relay panel has 5 normally open relays and 2 normally closed relays. The normally closed relays were used for the SEi cornering lights. When the trigger has power, the circuit opens and the cornering lights go off (and stay off). When the turn signal would trigger, it would open the trigger on the relay which closed the relay allowing the cornering lights to come on only while the turn signal was active in that direction.

I am going to take this relay and wire the trigger to the oil sender circuit. Bike is in key on position, oil light comes on, headlight is triggered off. Start the bike, oil pressure comes up, light goes off, relay closes and the headlight comes on. The only extra wiring will be to tap the oil light circuit! :Egyptian:

I tested this theory with the oil pressure switch and it worked! The only issue is the relay draws quite a bit of power away from the oil light when the engine is off but the key is on. I do not want to be heading down the highway in daylight and have my oil pressure drop and not see the light go on because it is too dim now.
:nea:

So I ordered another OP switch from Ebay and installed a tee in the engine to run two OP switches; one for the low oil pressure light and one to trigger the headlight relay. Installed the switches, wired into the relay fuse panel with a bullet connector, fired up the bike and it worked perfectly!!
:yahoo:

I love being able to do all of this testing on the bike without having to disturb the actual wire harness! :yes:

 

[Rednaxs60]

Excellent idea and well thought out way to take care of the headlight during starts. Since I installed an LED headlight, the headlight just flashes when I start the bike. With the old H4 bulb it went out until the bike started. Not a big deal but something to consider in the future.

Keep the ideas coming.

Cheers

 

[joedrum]

Neat gerry

 

[mcgovern61]

First rough draft of the wiring schematic for the fuse/relay panel. This is only the one line diagram. I need to create a one line diagram for the connectors and how they connect to the harness. It is rough because it was done in Excel. At least it will give me a good reference point to make connections and for testing. It is hard to see in the picture, but all of the wires are color coded with the correct color and stripe. The printed version is easier to see and follow.

 

[dan filipi]

Looks great Gerry. Nice diagram and set up.

 

[Rednaxs60]

Excellent schematic. Question - you mention that the wires are correctly colour coded with appropriate stripes. Do you have a supplier for the wiring or is the wiring from past projects?

Cheers

 

[Ansimp]

dan filipi » Sun Jun 04, 2017 2:50 am[/url]":q01kcpb2]
Looks great Gerry. Nice diagram and set up.

+1 :good:

 

[mcgovern61]

Rednaxs60 » Sat Jun 03, 2017 1:04 pm[/url]":3mn8g981]
Excellent schematic. Question - you mention that the wires are correctly colour coded with appropriate stripes. Do you have a supplier for the wiring or is the wiring from past projects?

Cheers

Earnest, these are the wires that are already in the fuse/relay panel. The only wires being added will be the actual harness wires to connect the fuse/relay panel to the buss bars since the buss bars will be forward of the panel. For those wire, it will be one color for buss one and another color for buss 2. I will be numbering the wires as they are connected at the fuse/relay panel and at the other end at the buss bars. It will be much less expensive than attempting to get that many colors.

Any wires being added to the harness will match the Honda color code.

 

[Rednaxs60]

Thanks for the information. Had another good look at the schematic, very nice and well thought out. Like the use of the relays.

Cheers

 

[mcgovern61]

When I installed the trailer lighting harness, I used scotch locks for tapping into the existing wires. Since I am rebuilding the entire wire harness, I though it to be prudent to remove the scotch locks and add normal connectors for the trailer for quick disconnect like the rest of the bike's wiring. With my new Vintage Connection tools and connectors, it was pretty darned easy to do.

Way back when I got my new NOS Hondaline bags, I traded my old bags with a Member for an'82 rear fender that is in perfect condition with near perfect paint plus the OEM pin stripping. Now is a good time to add them to the bike since the rear harness will remain.

Here is what it looked like with the scotch locks:

Pulled the harness, pulled the fender, cleaned up the wires, wrapped in new harness wrap and added the new spades:

Add the new connector and wrapped the harness:

 

[mcgovern61]

A couple pics of my old fender next to the new one:

Trailer harness completed:

 

[mcgovern61]

Going through this process has helped me take a good look at all of my existing wiring. One of the things brought up is to be sure all wire used is rated for high temperatures.

I took a look at the spool of wire I used to run the radio wires 2 years ago and although it is primary wire from an auto parts store, it doesn't say heat rated. So I took a closer look and sure enough, where the wires pass the seat just above the engine area, the insulation was melting together! :shock:

Pulled all of the radio wires including speaker cable. It will all be replaced with heat rated wires! (Lesson learned )

 

[Ansimp]

Nice work again Gerry. :hi:

 

[Rednaxs60]

Very Nice. Enjoy your thread immensely and learn from it as well. Wonder how much wire is not needed on the '85 LTD?

Cheers

 

[mcgovern61]

The new wire and sheathing has arrived! (Boy, sure looks like I am trying to make more spaghetti!) :hihihi:

Wire harness #1 from the relay/fuse panel to the buss bars is finished!

This is how it looks with the buss bar top off:

With the top on:

 

[Ansimp]

Excellent work and mod Gerry.

 

[slabghost]

Leave out the smoke sauce for the spaghetti. It just means trouble.

 

[mcgovern61]

mcgovern61 » Sat Jun 03, 2017 9:53 pm[/url]":jufr53rs]
Going through this process has helped me take a good look at all of my existing wiring. One of the things brought up is to be sure all wire used is rated for high temperatures.

I took a look at the spool of wire I used to run the radio wires 2 years ago and although it is primary wire from an auto parts store, it doesn't say heat rated. So I took a closer look and sure enough, where the wires pass the seat just above the engine area, the insulation was melting together! :shock:

Pulled all of the radio wires including speaker cable. It will all be replaced with heat rated wires! (Lesson learned )

High temp marine radio speaker wires and power wires are in! The 4 conductor speaker cable is real nice! As I ran it through the frame, I added chafe protection anywhere it would potentially rub from vibration.

New 4 conductor connector at the speakers and back at the trunk. (I'm sorry, I am having just too much fun with these Vintage Connection crimpers and connectors!)

The radio speaker cable will stay on the bike even when I swap out the '81 harness for the '82 harness. I decided it would be best to keep that a separate cable.

 

[mcgovern61]

Now that I have the Vintage Connections crimper and connectors, I changed out the scotch locks on the added LED brake lights on the trunk. I used Y connectors to add the wires to the existing harness. By using these connectors, they will still work even when I change to the '82 harness.

 

[Denver]

Nice work! :yes: