Seized engine!

[Write2Paul90277]

Good insights, guys.

Yes, there is a drain plug in the back, too.

And yes, it DOES appear to be a cover from either the 1100 or 1000 (see parts listings).

Thanks, backlander for the engine number breakdown. So -- my Aspencade will have the heart of an Interstate, huh?. Just as well, since when I got the bike I switched out the badges from Aspy to Interstate. I just like the name better and am not a fan of fancy lettering on motorcycles.

Anyway, I will proceed with replacing the 1100 front cover with my 1200, since the 1200 cover has the gear position switch I need for the gear display on the dash.

Once again, my hat is off to you for your sharp observations.

Thx

Paul

 

[Write2Paul90277]

It's always something!

Now that I've pulled the front transmission/water pump cover off both engines, I'm discovering some things I was hoping NOT to see. For one thing, that GL1100/1000 cover was only held in place by thumb-tight bolts, indicating that the salvage yard might have sold the correct cover, then put the older cover on just top protect the innards for transport.

I did a compression check and the pressure (measured cold, of course) is between 160 - 170 psi on all four cylinders. Do you think those numbers will improve once the bike has been running and re-checked while warm?

All of the above leads me to believe that the donor engine has a lot more miles on it that the 15K claimed by the seller. But what can I do? I doubt highly that the seller will take the engine back, and the thought of starting all over searching for another engine is not my idea of fun.

I guess I'll just forge ahead and see how it goes.

Paul

 

[joedrum]

those numbers are fine ..if they did do that with the cover ..id say thats ok and means they really did want to portect it ...with those numbers and a cover to use theres no way id want my money back ...to me so far your looking pretty good

 

[Steve83]

160-170 is excellent compression, you should be fine. How do the water pumps look? If the weep holes are clean, and there's no side-to-side play in the impeller shaft, you should be good to go.

 

[ekvh]

+1 Good compression.

 

[Ansimp]

+2

 

[Write2Paul90277]

Good to hear about the compression, folks.

I guess the mileage of the donor engine will remain a mystery. It certainly isn't 15K, as claimed! I will be using as many of my known-to-be-young parts from the original engine -- starter, fuel pump, front cover, back cover, stator, clutch, pulse generators and any shiny bits that look better than what the donor came with.

Any recommendations on silver engine paint that is (A) similar to the original color and (B) won't melt off with the first stray drop of gasoline?

Enjoy.

Paul

 

[slabghost]

Oh Gerry will chime in soon on the paint for the motor.

 

[mcgovern61]

The best paint that I have used with a near perfect match is the Duplicolor 1615 aluminum engine paint. But changed mine to the Duplicolor Iron paint and really like the way it shows off the polished aluminun!

Duplicolor 1615 with Duplicolor High Heat Clear:

In the bike:

Color changed to Iron:

 

[Write2Paul90277]

Thank you sir. Gotta love that voice of experience!

Paul

 

[Write2Paul90277]

Free at last!

Phew! I pulled the bad engine today! It was pretty time consuming (especially since I tend to label EVERYTHING for easier reassembly) but when all was said and done, it wasn't all that hard.

What made the extraction relatively painless is that I pulled both cylinder heads before I began. I'll probably take the heads off of the donor engine before it goes into the frame, both because it'll be easier to maneuver, and because I'm planning on putting my freshly lapped and ground heads on the donor.

I'll keep you posted as I switch out the water pump, oil pump, alternator/rotor, starter, clutch and whatever else I have that's shinier and or younger.

Thank God for hydraulic lifts!

Paul

 

[slabghost]

looking good so far. good plan to check everything over and use all the best parts.

 

[Ansimp]

+1

 

[flash2002]

I guess I should put my two cents. One thing I do before I install an engine not to have problems is, I do a pressure test on the engine on the bench before I install to make sure there are no antifreeze leaks. I install hoses with a gauge and fill the motor then, I put about 25 to 30 LBS of air and leave it over night, if it goes down I check for leaks. Saves a lot of trouble if there is a leak.

 

[Write2Paul90277]

.
Can you recommend a way to test the cooling system pressure without buying the whole (expensive) tester?

I was thinking about clamping two hoses on the donor engine, block both ends with some puck-shaped object, installing a Schrader valve in one of them, charge with air, then use my compression tester (or just look for visible leaks).

Am I oversimplifying this step?

Thx

Paul

 

[joedrum]

i dont see how you can check this without heads on ..what happen to your other motor is very rare ...so feel your concern ...but it will cost you head gaskets to check ...to me id just install it ....your swap the front cover and checking those things out in there is mandatory ...back cover is another deal ...you risk gasket tearing and have to buy new ...and observation of things in no way is like testing it as far as clutch and stator goes...with bike striped like it is... in and out is not that big a deal you dont have to put it all back together to test things ....anyway in my world oldwings my labor just cost a bowl of cherrios as fuel ...my take opcorn:

 

[Write2Paul90277]

.

Points well taken, joedrum. Just to avoid confusion, the donor engine still has the heads on. As for gaskets, I have the entire engine rebuild gasket set sitting on my workbench, so no worries there.

I agree that just looking at the stator/rotor/clutch is of little use. I will check the Honda manual (or listen to your suggestions) on how to test electrical performance. Checking the clutch plates, of course, is just a matter of measuring by the book.

BTW, I did check the engine compression on the donor engine and got 160-170psi all around.

Thx

 

[flash2002]

This is my home made tester, I plug the top part of the motor and install the gauge on the bottom where the pump is. I fill the block till the hose stays fill half way then I add air by the air valve at the right pressure. The short hose is the one I install on the top of the motor, I fill it from there till it's half way up the big hose and then plug it.

 

[Write2Paul90277]

.

You sure you didn't get that at a proctologist's office?

Seriously, thanks. Looks like a trip to the plumbing aisle and the aquarium store is in order.

PW

 

[flash2002]

Write2Paul90277 » Mon Mar 09, 2015 12:39 pm[/url]":2iaz37m8]
.

You sure you didn't get that at a proctologist's office?

Seriously, thanks. Looks like a trip to the plumbing aisle and the aquarium store is in order.

PW

I just use parts that I had laying around, that's why it looks like a bunch of parts. I'm sure you can make one with less parts. the air valve is from a camping store, they use this to blow water out of the pipes.