Seized engine!

[Write2Paul90277]

SUCCESS!

I just finished installing the replacement engine and test riding the bike for the first time. MISSION ACCOMPLISHED. Runs strong, silky smooth, shifts well, 175psi on all four cylinders, etc. I was a bit worried because the donor engine had a lot more miles on it that originally claimed. But by transplanting all my good (lower mileage) parts from the original engine, all is good. (Transplanted parts included both cylinder heads, starter, clutch, alternator, water pump, oil pump, new belts, etc.)

All that's left is to get the brakes squared away. I've rebuild all three calipers and both master cylinders, but still have bubbles in the lines, despite following every trick in this forum and others. I HATE the linked brakes!! Has anyone UNLINKED THE BRAKES on their '84 Aspencade to make them like a real motorcycle brakes??

Best wishes,

Paul

 

[Terry]

Write2Paul90277 » 11 minutes ago[/url]":2pgehwro]
SUCCESS!

I just finished installing the replacement engine and test riding the bike for the first time. MISSION ACCOMPLISHED. Runs strong, silky smooth, shifts well, 175psi on all four cylinders, etc. I was a bit worried because the donor engine had a lot more miles on it that originally claimed. But by transplanting all my good (lower mileage) parts from the original engine, all is good. (Transplanted parts included both cylinder heads, starter, clutch, alternator, water pump, oil pump, new belts, etc.)

All that's left is to get the brakes squared away. I've rebuild all three calipers and both master cylinders, but still have bubbles in the lines, despite following every trick in this forum and others. I HATE the linked brakes!! Has anyone UNLINKED THE BRAKES on their '84 Aspencade to make them like a real motorcycle brakes??

Best wishes,

Paul

My "guess" is proper bleeding of the brakes involves a very specific bleeding sequence or order, my GL 1800 did and it had linked brakes also. If no one chimes in, I would suggest checking the service repair manual for your 84 Aspencade for the exact required sequence of bleeding.

 

[dan filipi]

The last time I did mine I used a vacuum bleeder even though I was sure I got all the air out after following all the tricks bleeding them without one. Sure enough, after the vacuum bleeder both front and rear were better.
I wouldn't do them any other way now.
Harbor Freight sells them cheap.

https://www.harborfreight.com/brake-blee ... 69328.html

 

[mcgovern61]

:clapping: Great news on getting that engine in!!! :clapping:

 

[Terry]

BTW: Even though I posted my guess, basically because I haven't owned a 1200.
I also use a Mityvac vacuum bleeder.
Napa also makes a simple and cheap one direction valve and clear hose.
If you plan on keeping the bike invest in some Speed Bleeders for quick maintenance servicing.
see them here: https://www.speedbleeder.com/install.htm

 

[Write2Paul90277]

Yes, Speed Bleeders are a amazing -- one of those, "why-didn't-they-think-of-that-sooner" ideas for sure.

I used them on all three calipers, and even tried that trick where you crack open each banjo bolt to let that last bit of air out. The lever and pedal both feel pretty stiff, which is a good thing, but there are two problems: (Keep in mind I still haven't tried the vacuum pump yet.)

(1) The front brake lever (which activates the left front caliper) requires a mighty squeeze just to get minimal braking.

(2) The rear brake pedal works on the rear okay but isn't activating the right front caliper at all. I can tell because after many test brake applications, the right front disc is cold and the rear is hot.

Thoughts?

P.S. Should I move this discussion to a new thread about brakes? If so, how the heck is that done?

Thanks,

Paul

 

[mcgovern61]

+1 on the speed bleeders! :yes:

 

[Terry]

Might have a clogged orifice of some sort in master cylinder??
May be a problem in a proportioning valve in the linked brake system???
Really not sure, just suggestions. good luck. You'll get it figured out eventually.

 

[Write2Paul90277]

Brake update: I took everyone's advice and the brakes are now working great.

Among other things, it turns out that the forks had leaking TRAC seals, which contaminated the front discs with fork oil.

I fixed the TRAC leak (and serviced the forks), cleaned the discs, refurbished the calipers, put in fresh pads, added speed bleeders and followed proper bleeding techniques with vacuum pump. Bingo. The bike now stops fast and easy, with a good feel at the lever and pedal.

Thanks, team, for all your help.

 

[Ansimp]

:good:

 

[slabghost]

Write2Paul90277 » Sun Jul 05, 2015 4:32 pm[/url]":2hb1mfzp]
Brake update: I took everyone's advice and the brakes are now working great.

Among other things, it turns out that the forks had leaking TRAC seals, which contaminated the front discs with fork oil.

I fixed the TRAC leak (and serviced the forks), cleaned the discs, refurbished the calipers, put in fresh pads, added speed bleeders and followed proper bleeding techniques with vacuum pump. Bingo. The bike now stops fast and easy, with a good feel at the lever and pedal.

Thanks, team, for all your help.

:BigGrin: I just love happy endings! :smilie_happy:

 

[julimike54]

It's great that it all worked out well!

 

[Daeouse]

Ok, after reading this thread all the way through, the finished product is wonderful to behold! I definitely am saving this thread for later in case I ever have a similar problem. . . :good:

 

[OldWrench]

Welcome to the forum, you have received some good advice, good luck with your repairs. Check the cylinder walls for any scoring.

 

[Write2Paul90277]

FOLLOW-UP:

Just to complete the story (from a few years ago), it turned out that the impact of the piston hitting the foreign object in the combustion chamber cracked the engine cases. This allowed coolant and water to mix, with disastrous results. Solution: Replaced the engine! Glad that episode is far behind me!


Thanks everyone for your help (and sympathy!).

-- Paul

 

[mcgovern61]

Whew! Paul, I have been waiting 4 years to find out what the final problem was! :hihihi:

Good to know that the suspicion of a cracked block was the right call. Shame since it ran so good before that. But I hope you have had some great rides on that girl since then. :moped: :salute:

 

[joedrum]

Yep my my what can happen

 

[dan filipi]

Write2Paul90277 » Yesterday, 2:13 pm[/url]":1ssnj1be]
FOLLOW-UP:

Just to complete the story (from a few years ago), it turned out that the impact of the piston hitting the foreign object in the combustion chamber cracked the engine cases. This allowed coolant and water to mix, with disastrous results. Solution: Replaced the engine! Glad that episode is far behind me!


Thanks everyone for your help (and sympathy!).

-- Paul

Pictures of the damage would be interesting.

 

[Write2Paul90277]

You want pics? I've got pics.

After unknowingly dropping a screw into one of the spark plug holes during maintenance (DOH!) the screw got hammered between the cylinder dome, valves and piston. The pressure on the piston/crank cracked an internal water jacket. Result? Coolant and oil mixed together and clouds of putrid smoke filled the air.

Old engine out. Donor engine in. The rest is history.

Thanks for your interest.

Ride safe,

Paul

 

[Ansimp]

Great pics even though they caused plenty of heartache. Good to see that you are back on the road again. :moped: :moped: :yahoo: