the PVC manifold didn't go so well so now I'm making one from copper plumbing parts

[joedrum]

well it has a big throat ..with its single barrel ...the dft has a much smaller one on its primary barrel ....and i dont have much experience at setting them up ... we will just have to really look into this ...how dose the idle circuit work.....how many jets dose it have ...gas and air .... and dose it have emulsion tubes ...one or more .... accelerator pump and is it jetable or adjustable ...

if it was me ..id tkae everything down to just strait carb and go from there ... basically taking electric choke off and anything else that is more car motor related .... on the dft i got rid of the power valve deal that was fixed and no way to adjust it...i am sure the solex might have something like that ...i will see if i can find out some stuff on this carb ... i did get one going for tom forman at the meet and greet that want on a 1100 ...but has no time to work with it at all ...it seemed to be rather good ...i am sure the carb can be made to work good i am thinking ....

 

[chuck c]

I'll try the electric choke to see if I like it. If I don't I'll wire it to the manual. There is a LOT of info on this carb because there are millions of them but it's all about VWs. I need to know specifically about setting it up for a much smaller engine. That will be another thread once the manifold works, which is very close.

 

[slabghost]

Check dkl's posts. He answered the question. If I recall no jetting was needed just some adjusting.

 

[Denver]

Was looking in K&L catalog,& saw Mikuni makes a flange with a throat opening of 70 instead of 60 would this help with tightness issue?

#VM36/200-1 typical carb size-36-40mm VM34/200-1 typical carb size-30-34mm

 

[joedrum]

they sure are expensive ...but i could use 4 ,,, for ******* move i made a while back to a set of grab bars LOL..

 

[Denver]

Live & learn, go& earn. All my life! Can't bitch, life's been good!Thought those might fit better,as for the price, they are proud of em.But they have something you need, so way of the world & so on! :head bang:

 

[chuck c]

That one is 70mm bolt hole spacing not bore. The wing is 60mm so the only 2 we can use are these:
carb
bolt bore ID
002-050 I-VM28-200-1 60 30 35
002-053 VM34/200-1 60 34 40 1.575"
002-054 I-VM36-200-1 70 40 43

The OD of 1" pvc connectors and elbows is about 1.600". That doesn't seem like much stretch but the ID for the carb has a raised bead to snap into a groove in the carb which is about 1mm high. That makes the real ID about 1.500" so it's stretching .100" or 2.5mm. If I can cut a matching groove they will fit with much less strain and that will help them stay in better too.

 

[chuck c]

I left the elbows in the Mikuni manifolds and they stretched open to the point they now aren't so tight. I was still a bit concerned about them popping out so I cut a groove for the raised bead inside the manifold to catch just as it would a carb. This was tricky with minimal tools. It could be done quickly and precisely on a lathe. I got a 3/16" router bit and did it like this.
The wood blocks held the pvc in the right place and I turned the tube by hand.

I couldn't get all the way around the elbows so I got halfway and tried them. They worked just fine with only half the groove. The bead caught in the groove and holds them in well. Did bit of sanding to remove the sharp edges so they wouldn't cut the rubber and cut off any mold parting lines, seams, or raised bits so they don't hurt the seal to the manifold.

I decided not to use the manifold of unknown origin that cost $11 and an hour digging through hundreds to find. I decided to make one from scratch that I can use as a spot to clamp the throttle cable. Specifics to be worked out later.

A short piece of tube will be glued into the flange and that will still allow the carb to be twisted to the best spot for the cable. I won't glue it in, I'll just use a bit of silicone to seal it. That way I can remove it without touching the manifold or get the manifold out without disconnecting the carb's connections. The manifold was finally glued tonight. Tomorrow it will be ready to run as soon as I get the throttle cable connection figured out.

 

[dan filipi]

Anxious to hear how well it runs.

 

[chuck c]

dan filipi » Wed Nov 12, 2014 11:47 pm[/url]":28plfvye]
Anxious to hear how well it runs.

I'm pretty sure everyone is a bit over me tossing out designs and playing with pvc and copper. You'll get the payoff very soon.

 

[joedrum]

not at all chuck c i look at it as ... your determination is way tough ... you wont be stoped ... givin these things ...theres no way not to benefit from it .. even me .. i like to watch toughness in action ...it makes me even tougher ... knowing others walk the same path as me ...the undefeatable attittude is something never to discount ...in my book

 

[mcgovern61]

I'm pretty sure everyone is a bit over me tossing out designs and playing with pvc and copper.

Not in the least! It is fun to watch all of your efforts knowing that you will get to a design that is going to work! opcorn: :wave:

 

[dan filipi]

chuck c » Thu Nov 13, 2014 5:55 am[/url]":32u8o56m]

dan filipi » Wed Nov 12, 2014 11:47 pm[/url]":32u8o56m]
Anxious to hear how well it runs.

I'm pretty sure everyone is a bit over me tossing out designs and playing with pvc and copper. You'll get the payoff very soon.

Lots of different ways to get this done and I've been enjoying looking at your designs.

 

[canuckxxxx]

Yes, keep going with it Chuck. You are doing a great job. :clapping:

 

[AApple]

I'm pretty sure everyone is a bit over me tossing out designs and playing with pvc and copper. You'll get the payoff very soon.

Heck NO, Chuck! They's more than one way to skin a cat....it's interesting seeing how others come up with different solutions to things! Besides....it's guys like you, Joe, Dan, and others that do all the hard werk for the rest of us! :hihihi: :good:

 

[slabghost]

Rat tail file can finish the grooves in your elbows.

 

[chuck c]

Bottom view of carb flange

Looks ok on the bench

hooked to throttle on the bike, no vrrroom

vrrroom!

I moved the angle of the cable a degree or two so it pulled a bit straighter after taking these pics. Full range of motion. There was quite a bit of work in getting the cable attachment in the right place, solid and smooth. The two little angle brackets allowed me to adjust the angle. They were a good idea. I measured the length of the cable all the way in and out and placed the adjuster where it could hit the carb linkage at idle and full open. Note the adjuster is all the way out, but I got it within the adjustment range. :heat:

You can't see it but I cut a groove to the hole in the angle bracket so I can take the adjuster out of it without removing the inner cable from the linkage.

I also sanded the mating surface of the flange as flat as possible and scraped the carb nice and clean too. With no gasket there was only a tiny sliver of light showing through. The gasket handled that.

The crimped connections to the terminals in my wire to the auto choke and anti-diesel valve failed. I hate crimped connections, they always do that on me. I soldered 'em. Not gonna come loose now.

I gave it a shot of starter fluid and hit the button it will only run off the starter fluid, it's not getting gas. I'll adjust it tomorrow.

 

[canuckxxxx]

Nice looking flange and linkage...good work. :good:

 

[chuck c]

I'm thinking about hooking the other cable of the throttle to the opposite side so it works pull open and closed like the original carbs.

 

[dan filipi]

Looking great :clapping:

I've always thought the push cable kinda dumb.
Never hooked it up.