the PVC manifold didn't go so well so now I'm making one from copper plumbing parts

[joedrum]

sheesh ok i should have caught that denver .. :doh:

chuck not to bad there ... seems balance tube should be support only and pluged ... and i like the extra opening that could have several bennies made into it to be user friendly

 

[slabghost]

And this is desirable? Why? :headscratch:

 

[dan filipi]

Now we're getting off on yet another topic in this thread.
Please start a new topic for a different design and try to keep this one about your copper manifold. :thanks:

 

[chuck c]

dan filipi » Sat Nov 15, 2014 7:33 pm[/url]":3pvfk1ms]
Now we're getting off on yet another topic in this thread.
Please start a new topic for a different design and try to keep this one about your copper manifold. :thanks:

:cheeky: okaaaaaay

 

[chuck c]

slabghost » Sat Nov 15, 2014 2:24 pm[/url]":35wl8jas]
And this is desirable? Why? :headscratch:

Because it's there. Sometimes we do things just because we can. Occasionally we learn something in the process.

 

[dan filipi]

chuck c » Sat Nov 15, 2014 6:52 pm[/url]":22ieacxd]

dan filipi » Sat Nov 15, 2014 7:33 pm[/url]":22ieacxd]
Now we're getting off on yet another topic in this thread.
Please start a new topic for a different design and try to keep this one about your copper manifold. :thanks:

:cheeky: okaaaaaay

I'm serious.
These single carb threads are already hard enough to follow along.
Everyone needs to keep the threads on topic or I start deleting posts.

 

[Denver]

Not trying to offend; k: But thought about grove in plastic manifold came to me,draw a line where you want it,& burn it in with a soldering iron, smooth if necessary.We all know about chemical bonding & your ability to tack it with heat,like welding. :thank_you:

 

[chuck c]

Denver » Sun Nov 16, 2014 5:52 pm[/url]":hngjdk3s]
Not trying to offend; k: But thought about grove in plastic manifold came to me,draw a line where you want it,& burn it in with a soldering iron, smooth if necessary.We all know about chemical bonding & your ability to tack it with heat,like welding. :thank_you:

I think the groove could be done that way or manually with a file even with a Dremel and rotary file bit. You hit on plastic welding. If that's done right it looks just like a metal weld and like a good metal weld they are as strong or more than the base material. A long time ago I had a plastic welder and lost it in a move. I've been kicking myself ever since, they are expensive. It's like a heat gun that blows a really small spot that will liquify plastic in seconds. It could reenforce the glue joints and be double sure of no leaks.

Well, they were expensive when I got one in the 80s. Harbor Freight has one for $50!
https://www.harborfreight.com/plastic-welding-kit-with-adjustable-temperature-96464.html

 

[Denver]

Was always afraid to use mine, always worried about deforming the piece.Soldering iron concentrates the heat more to my liking, i can control it better.

 

[chuck c]

I promise updates soon. Watch this space!

 

[mcgovern61]

opcorn:

 

[canuckxxxx]

+1 opcorn:

 

[chuck c]

I've messed with the Solex a bit and gotten it to idle between 1000 and 1500 but it's not steady. I've concluded what might be best for it is to put some Sea Foam in the tank and just ride it for a while. The carb might just be a bit sticky and gummy and some running might do a world of good. To get it road-worthy I need to fix the fan that's come off the shaft and wire in the tail/turn assembly. Stand by.

 

[slabghost]

Good luck!

 

[chuck c]

This is the best I've gotten it to run so far. This was after a bit of nagging and cussing getting it to stay running. You can see by the tach it's rough. Not the smooth idle I expected on the single carb. Could the manifold and the small volume plenum have anything to do with it?

[video]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xr3VkDRvWtw&feature=youtu.be[/video]

 

[dan filipi]

I'm not familiar with that specific carb but I'd try turning idle mix screws in a bit at a time, adjust idle speed, repeat.
If final idle is rougher, then try turning idle mix richer the same way.
Either way the idea is to find the best idle.

 

[chuck c]

No adjustment seems to have any effect on the roughness. I'm really starting to suspect the manifold and the lack of a decent size plenum. I think I might insert longer piece between the carb and plenum just to see if that makes any difference at all.

 

[slabghost]

chuck c » Sun Jul 12, 2015 9:06 pm[/url]":3estuihr]
No adjustment seems to have any effect on the roughness. I'm really starting to suspect the manifold and the lack of a decent size plenum. I think I might insert longer piece between the carb and plenum just to see if that makes any difference at all.

Good idea. The stock vw manifold had a riser that held the carb approximately 3" above the runners. I haven't gone back through this thread to refresh myself with all you've done here. So if you haven't checked everything for air leaks yet it is time to do so. They can be near impossible to find if the motor isn't running.

 

[chuck c]

This one's riser is maybe 2". I've always been a bit worried about the 5-way intersection piece I got for the center because it's a very sharp transition from the carb riser to the runners. Smooth flow is not gonna happen there. I've looked for air leaks a couple times but I might have missed one. The one thing I did not do was use anything between the flanges and the heads. I relied on them to seal themselves. I will add a bead of sealant to them and see if that helps.

 

[slabghost]

Try using a cereal box to make gaskets, RTV sealant isn't good in contact with gasoline.