the PVC manifold didn't go so well so now I'm making one from copper plumbing parts

[Ansimp]

dan filipi » Fri Nov 14, 2014 2:55 pm[/url]":1zihxrpk]
Looking great :clapping:

I've always thought the push cable kinda dumb.
Never hooked it up.

Unless you have full throttle and it doesn't want to return quickly, nice to have that cable pulling the throttle closed :good:

 

[joedrum]

leverage looks weak on throttle set up to me chuck ...dose it twist rather hard ...looks like cable breaking setup to me ...but its hard to say in pics

 

[chuck c]

[/quote]Unless you have full throttle and it doesn't want to return quickly, nice to have that cable pulling the throttle closed :good:[/quote]

Bingo. It's kind of a safety backup. The spring on the Solex is pretty strong and I'm not sure it would ever be a problem but I'm not comfortable with the other cable floating around with no tension on it. The throttle and cable are supposed to be a loop and under some tension to take up the slack. Even if I don't hook it to the carb I intend to nail down the sheath and put a light spring on the core to a fixed point to make sure there's no slop in the loop. That will also help counter the fairly strong Solex spring. In fact, that could make the throttle return force easily adjustable.... :mischief:

At the moment the throttle doesn't seem too hard but an hour of riding might change my mind. I'm just happy it works! I might mess with that counterspring idea and see what happens. The OEM choke cable bracket should do nicely to hold the cable.

The cable has 1-1/2" of travel and that's the spot allows it to pull from closed to full open. There's nothing I can do about that, geometry dictates it. Any adjustment in force has to be done with springs. I forgot to mention I've got the carb in conventional position with the bowl to the rear. The carb just barely touches the frame. The cable is running to almost the stock location which is good, no kinks and the 33 year old thing isn't under any strain.

 

[chuck c]

Long road back to the same place.
It runs just like before. It won't run below 1800 with the choke on. Dropping it down one notch on the choke kills it. Turning the adjustment screws has no effect! Air cleaner on or off, no effect! I'm out of ideas and pretty frustrated. :head bang: It's so close. I will start hitting VW forums for advice on setting the Solex. I have seen the standard advice text here are many other places, it does not help because it assume the engine will idle. The idle circuit must be blocked. I guess the next step is a complete carb rebuild. Dangit.

 

[Ansimp]

It sounds like the anti dieseling solenoid/ idle circuit is not working. Some of them you could remove the plunger/needle and screw the solenoid back in to test it.

 

[chuck c]

Ansimp » Fri Nov 14, 2014 4:43 pm[/url]":2salyq1s]
It sounds like the anti dieseling solenoid/ idle circuit is not working. Some of them you could remove the plunger/needle and screw the solenoid back in to test it.

It's clicking which the Internet tells me is proof enough. The Internet wouldn't lie to me, would it? I'll get it out and have a look.

 

[dan filipi]

I would first be looking very closely for any vacuum leaks.
Just a very small leak will cause problems like this.

 

[chuck c]

I think I fixed it. :Egyptian: You put me on the right track. While checking it in my hand I said "now I'll need a ground.... wait, where is the... :doh:" The valve worked just fine when the carb had a good ground. I heard a funny noise when I ran it earlier which sounded a bit like a lifter/valve train tap. Ok I sez, valve clearance will be next after I get the carb working. I think it was that valve clicking on and off. I added a good ground wire and it's gone and she'll idle without the choke about 1100-1200. Now I can go through the carb setup routine and dial it in. it's fairly smooth. Not quite as good as the one I sold a few weeks ago with the OEM carbs but I bet some running and fresh gas with a touch of Sea Foam will clear it out.

The throttle works but I can't really tell if the resistance is right. I won't know until I can ride it some.

The Solex automatic choke seems to work. I am certain there are no vacuum leaks, I was very careful putting this all together.

The runners stayed cool to the touch with the bike sitting idling and getting hot. The mix going through cools them as expected. The PVC should not have any problem being close to the engine.

Tomorrow I will take it off the lift and see if I can get it to move under its own power. Remember: pvc manifold and rubber intake boots will mean the only ground path is through the throttle cable!

I fully plan to paint it to match the engine but there's something so wonderful about leaving it white and obviously pvc to anyone that looks... that ought to turn some heads! :hihihi:

 

[Ansimp]

:good:

 

[Denver]

Congratulations on a job well done :salute: !!! Makes me think about a new Weber with a similar if not the same design for at least 1 of my 1200's.The latest one loses power in 3rd gear at about 85,think float's may be set too low,haven't looked into them yet.They were partly plugged,had idle turned way up,Startron & ATF opened them up & turned idle down several times.Runs well enough to get me in trouble,& if i don't rev high, it runs past 85 nicely, what few times I've tried,so looks like carbs get dug into when stator is replaced & damper plate is trashed or sold on ebay.Be the perfect time to make a manifold,& with any updates you might come with,might convert all over to single carb set up.A set of good running carbs,still looks to bring enough to cover the expense on ebay. :headscratch: All your bikes with same,& BETTER carbs would be a real plus,& one rebuild kit per scooter would be a real bonus. :good:

 

[chuck c]

I'm already thinking about how to do 2 carbs. The Solex would be too big for that. I'd need to find a smaller one.

 

[joedrum]

well ive never seen any thread where any twin set up did anything but sound good ... and most get sold or taken off ....i guess if bling factor is big deal to you it might have value ... but i dont go for sound and no go at all

 

[slabghost]

Dual carbs return the complexity and balance issues. Perhaps even more pronounced than the stock four. If it's for the bling factor maybe you can find some chrome plastic model carbs to hang on either side?

 

[chuck c]

I went out this morning, 37 degrees here in PA. Cranked the throttle once to set the choke, hit the button and after overcoming the cold oil it fired right up and idled like a champ. The only thing I have to do for a good test is get the fan working. I'm not sure what's wrong but I think when I put it back together I must have left out a spacer and it's touching the radiator.

 

[chuck c]

slabghost » Sat Nov 15, 2014 8:17 am[/url]":2jsxr3qg]
Dual carbs return the complexity and balance issues. Perhaps even more pronounced than the stock four. If it's for the bling factor maybe you can find some chrome plastic model carbs to hang on either side?

Yeah, balancing them would be pretty tricky. I think the ideal method would involve electronic sensors and controls and if you're going to do that you might as well go to fuel injection. :whistling:

 

[joedrum]

ok chuck settle down i am sure there is still some work here to get dialed in the best you can on the single LOL..so glad its came around to working

 

[Denver]

It's easy to bump metal surround some where & blade is in a slight bind,see if blade spins easily.If any bind at all it will pop the fuse for fan. It's located on left side of frame under the seat on 1200's.

 

[joedrum]

ok denver i dont get it lol...explain

 

[Denver]

Last water pump i changed radiator assembly slipped & hit the surround hard enough to bend bracket or surround just enough to bind fan. Didn't notice & put together,ran & fan would not work turned off when it started to get too hot & then found fan was in a bind.Got it free still no go,getting hot still no fan.Put 12 volts & it runs,look at all fuses in box & all good.Got out extra wire harness for the assembly & meter check for broken wire,both same readings,change temp switch for fan,not it.Starting to get frustrated to say the least.Happen to look down,there it says fan fuse,even has an extra fuse in connector,replace extra fuse in connector & button up. :yahoo:

 

[chuck c]

This crazy setup is fairly easy. It can take 2 sidedraft carbs. I think there are several to choose from. The air cleaners would point straight in the incoming air. The balance tube joining them is more for structural support than anything else, the carbs would still have to be carefully set up. Then there's the throttle linkage..... hey wait, we already have a push-pull throttle that moves exactly 1 to 1. Set one cable to one side and the other would need a bellcrank to reverse it, but the more I think about it the more I like it.